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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1999 wagon with vulcan 3.0 I was driving down the interstate to visit family this weekend and the car blew a headgasket about 4 miles away. I pulled over and let the car cool and then drove the rest of the way. As i pulled into the driveway i noticed the oil light came on. I figured it was because the car was due for an oil change and the heat of the engine just thinned the oil out too much.

I replaced the headgasket, water pump, thermostat and flushed the system out. The oil light was still on when i started it up (even if i gave it gas). I changed the oil in it and started the car and the light went out for about 15 minutes and then came back on. I put a mechanical gauge on the car and on cold start up it reads around 45 p.s.i. and drops to around 35-40 at low idle. Once the car is warmed up the pressure drops to around 4-7 p.s.i. at low idle (almost 0 when in gear at low idle) and goes to about 30-40 when i give it gas.

Is this because of the cam synch? or am i looking at an oil pump or bearing issue? I dont hear any kind of knocking or ticking at all and the engine runs smooth.

thank you for your time and help.

p.s. also the car is not throwing any codes at all
 

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Use thicker oil. Like Shell Rotella 5W-40 with Restore. Cam bearings are probably gone... when the block heats up, the bearing gap dilates/increases and you loose pressure.
I am using that treatment on my Explorer (almost same issure but with lifters noise) and since I started, it improved a little bit the lifter noise.

You can look to the oil pump shaft by removing the syncronizer. But if that was a problem you would have the low pressure always...
 

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Also the main bearing can create that, but when those are "loose", you can HEAR the deep knoking...
On my Exp I replaced the oil pump, syncronizer, monitored the pressure with a real gauge for weeks and... 5-600$ latter I ended up with the above solution. You can try too all the above, maybe you are lucky and in your case is the oil pump. I wasn't.
 

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Low Oil P

1999 wagon with vulcan 3.0 I was driving down the interstate to visit family this weekend and the car blew a headgasket about 4 miles away. I pulled over and let the car cool and then drove the rest of the way. As i pulled into the driveway i noticed the oil light came on. I figured it was because the car was due for an oil change and the heat of the engine just thinned the oil out too much.

I replaced the headgasket, water pump, thermostat and flushed the system out. The oil light was still on when i started it up (even if i gave it gas). I changed the oil in it and started the car and the light went out for about 15 minutes and then came back on. I put a mechanical gauge on the car and on cold start up it reads around 45 p.s.i. and drops to around 35-40 at low idle. Once the car is warmed up the pressure drops to around 4-7 p.s.i. at low idle (almost 0 when in gear at low idle) and goes to about 30-40 when i give it gas.

Is this because of the cam synch? or am i looking at an oil pump or bearing issue? I dont hear any kind of knocking or ticking at all and the engine runs smooth.

thank you for your time and help.

p.s. also the car is not throwing any codes at all
Blown head gasket often puts some water in the oil. Likely damaged the bearings. I would replace mains and rods and oil pump while at it.

Heavy oil will just buy some time, but may make it too bad to fix later.

Main bearings are the most problem. If they leak off the oil pr. there is little remaining for the rods.

-chart-
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i dont believe they gasket leaked any water into the oil. I checked the oil before leaving home on my trip and when i got there i checked it again to see if it was milky and the level was the same. So if there was any water leaked into the pan it was very minimal. (gasket blew between cylinder and cooling passage). also there is absolutely no noise coming from the top or bottom end of the engine (unless it is too faint to hear over the engine running)

So is it safe to assume it has nothing to do with the cam synch?
 

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Well... It's your call. You can pull out the syncronizer to see what you have there, is not that hard.
Less than 5 PSI and the oil pressure sensor will lit the warning light. And you double check that indication with a separate pressure reader... I won't drive it like that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
i already pulled the oil sensor out and put a mechanical gauge in there until i get this sorted out. But what i was asking was is it possible for the cam synch to cause my issue and the engine still run great? i did a search and it seems like anytime someone mentions an oil pressure issue it is blamed on the cam synch but mine is still running great so i was wondering if it could still be the cause.


*and thanks again for taking the time to help me get the bull in order*
 

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Cam synchronizer engages the oil pump shaft with a 1/4" hex. That's why I said that you can look there, see if it is worn out to the point of slipping. Mine was a little worn looking. I did replace it with a new one and nothing changed. Pics are from Explorer V8, but the V6 Vulcan is almost identical in that aspect.

 
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