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While I'm waiting for the parts for my lower end rebuild, I decided to get started on the teardown. I've never liked the y-pipe removal process here in michigan, and it seems like this one is about to present a special kind of hell.

I've got the y-pipe to cat back disconnected (the nuts/bolts were stubborn, but I was able to thread them off), the starter came off without a problem, the oil is drained, and I've removed one of the y-pipe to manifold nuts on the front manifold.

The problem is that the OTHER fastener is not a nut. The rear is the same way...one nut and one...non-nut. It looks like a nut without sides. It does not look like a rounded off nut.

Has anyone ever heard of this?

I won't have a problem getting the cut off wheel in there on the front but on the rear, I don't think I'll have the room needed to get in there. I'd like to have the option of replacing the y-pipe, so I'm not going to cut the down pipes.
 

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My guess is corrosion. FWIW I use ss bolts and grade 8 nuts.
 

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just finished replacing cat/y pipe on 96 vulcan. Definately rounded off bolt. Should have been 15 mm.

I ended up having to cut studs off both front and rear exhaust manifolds. Best access is to take off the intake manifold and heat shields. That gave me enough room to get my sawsall in and cut the studs from above.

I took off the exhaust manifolds and drilled out the holes. Now I have nuts and bolts on there for next time.
 

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QUOTE (KARI K @ Jun 21 2009, 07:39 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=733984
just finished replacing cat/y pipe on 96 vulcan. Definately rounded off bolt. Should have been 15 mm.

I ended up having to cut studs off both front and rear exhaust manifolds. Best access is to take off the intake manifold and heat shields. That gave me enough room to get my sawsall in and cut the studs from above.

I took off the exhaust manifolds and drilled out the holes. Now I have nuts and bolts on there for next time.[/b]
When the motor was changed on my 97, the dude left the manifolds connected to the exhaust because he
"said" the exhaust bolts were stuck.

I might have to visit the change the cats situation, but i have some questions on what you did.

If the studs point downward from the exhaust manifolds, how did you get a sawzall in from the top, and cut
them flush with the cast exhaust manifold? i just don't see how you had the space to do it.
Or did you just cut the exhaust pipe off (since your were replacing it) and then took the manifold
off the engine where you have the space to extract the studs?

Curious to, when you cut the exhaust off, did you look at the front or back of the cats?
If so, did they look damaged?

bob

Also, how did you try to remove the back ones first? It looks like it would take a very long 1/2 drive extension
with a angle joint or such to even attempt it. Is the steering rack not in the way?
 

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http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/R3030-One-Hand...aw/EN/index.htm


this little sazall saved my but. There is just barely enough room to get in there, trust me my back was pretty sore by the time I got them off. There is just enough room to work from the drivers side of the car. Take off the air intake system and piping to give yourself more room.

Tried getting the nuts off the rear exhaust studs with a long extension, impact swivel joint, and an intermediate depth 15 mm socket. This worked on a car in the scrap yard that was the donor of the new cat / y pipe for my wifes car. There is just enoughroom between the transmission and the steering rack, the heat shield is a pain in the but to work around though.

In the end though, i did end up unbolting the exhause manifolds from the heads so that i could grind off the last of the bolt and drill out the holes.

i soaked everything each evening for a couple of days with PB to give myself the best chance of not snapping off exhause manifold bolts. Only ended up snapping the heads off two of the rears. Fortunately both were on the top half, so I was able to drill those out as well and use a nut and bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The front was easy. The right front came out like it was supposed to; nut in hand, stud intact. The cutoff wheel took out the other front one between the manifold and the flange.

The rear was not so nice. I was able to use the cutoff wheel from the top on both. The passenger side was easy. There was plenty of room. The driver's side was a bear. I cut the stud and nut at about 45° and used a 4 foot piece of steel fence post to "persuade" the nut to split by ramming the y-pipe flange from the air box area. Big win.

Now, I'll have to remove the manifolds to extract the remnants of the 3 chopped studs.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I guess now is a good time to inquire about replacement studs.

I plan on using stainless steel hardware to replace the manifold studs and I noted when I cut the old ones out that they don't seem to be the same size as the SHO (m10x1.5).


What size are the studs on a 98 Vulcan?
 

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i drilled out the holes to remove the stud remnants and threads and installed larger 3/8ths grade 8 nut and bolt. Drop the bolt in from above once you re-install exhaust manifold. couldn't find any stainless hardware on a sunday afternoon.
 
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