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The mechanic changed the camshaft synchronizer due to a making a squealing noise. The idiot didn't mark the position of the old one.
The 'mechanic' should have known that, pretty basic knowledge, the same as a distributor. That being said, do not let them charge labor for the time that it is going to take to do it correctly.
 

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Learned last week that the CEL that I've been driving with for 3 years was my camshaft syncro… So today I replaced my syncro and sensor today and I found something quite interesting…
How does the engine run with the sensor destroyed and the vein on the syncro mangled?
 

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Learned last week that the CEL that I've been driving with for 3 years was my camshaft syncro… So today I replaced my syncro and sensor today and I found something quite interesting…
How does the engine run with the sensor destroyed and the vein on the syncro mangled?
Magic. Ford Magic. For being a poorly designed part, it's pretty hard for it to truly fail and destroy the engine.
 

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I have intermittent grinding and sounds like a bearing. At idle not much noise but you start to slowly accelerate it gets louder. Took serpentine belt off---no noise? It's a 20006 model w/ approx. 150,000 mi. Had water pump replaced couple of years ago. can't feel or hear any noise when manually rotating pulleys?
 

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Get a mechanics stethoscope from Harbor Freight Tools for <$5. Reinstall belt, idle engine and carefully listen to each belt driven component.
 

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I just got around to doing this on my 2006, which wasn't chirping or making any noise (but as we all know with these, that doesn't mean anything). In fact, when I got it out, the vane still rotated nice and smoothly and I couldn't see anything obviously wrong with it.

After dropping in the new one, and having to fight with it for like an hour before it wanted to line up right (turn the vane to the left of where you want it to end up, and hold it in place while you lower it in, it will jump 10 degrees forward while the gears mesh), the car seemed to idle and run a bit smoother regardless. Might be placebo, but I doubt it. I was having a bizarre issue where it felt like the car would buck when ever I went up or down an incline, like the vane was going sideways from too much play on the bearing. Not sure if the bearing went ages ago or not, since there was no noise. But that issue is resolved, so who knows.

Also, to anyone who doesn't want to take the manifold off, just break the section of the plastic wire holder that goes over the synchro. I couldn't see a way to get the wires free enough to remove the whole wire tray without removing the upper intake manifold. So I just broke it. Call me lazy, but it works. Some snips with wire cutters and we were in business. Just be careful not to cut any wires, and I found moving the bundle up over the T-Stat hose inlet worked fine. A swivel ratchet and a 10 inch extension are also extremely helpful for this job.
 

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I don't know if this will get read since this is a very old thread, but here's my cam sync experience anyway. We just obtained a 2002 SE Vulcan sedan with 40K original miles. Needless to say it just sat for many years, luckily in a garage. I spent over 5 months replacing all springs/struts, RF motor mount, all brakes and hardware, belt, hoses, trans service ... the list goes on. I thought I was done when the cam sync started chirping softly, then more pronounced. I ran it no more than 30 minutes with the intermittent noise. Seeing that he car has only 40K miles, I was reluctant to pull the cam sync, figuring the shaft may have simply dried up after sitting for so long. I pulled off the cam sensor and squirted some 10W30 oil around the shaft, watched it disappear and fired it up. The squeak dissipated quickly until is disappeared completely. I disconnected the battery to get rid of the stored code for taking off the CPS, put everything back together and all is good.

I know this is not the recommended fix for high mileage cars, but I didn't want to give up on a factory Motorcraft cam sync with only 40K on it and having the audible squeak for only a very short time.
 

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I don't know if this will get read since this is a very old thread, but here's my cam sync experience anyway. We just obtained a 2002 SE Vulcan sedan with 40K original miles. Needless to say it just sat for many years, luckily in a garage. I spent over 5 months replacing all springs/struts, RF motor mount, all brakes and hardware, belt, hoses, trans service ... the list goes on. I thought I was done when the cam sync started chirping softly, then more pronounced. I ran it no more than 30 minutes with the intermittent noise. Seeing that he car has only 40K miles, I was reluctant to pull the cam sync, figuring the shaft may have simply dried up after sitting for so long. I pulled off the cam sensor and squirted some 10W30 oil around the shaft, watched it disappear and fired it up. The squeak dissipated quickly until is disappeared completely. I disconnected the battery to get rid of the stored code for taking off the CPS, put everything back together and all is good.

I know this is not the recommended fix for high mileage cars, but I didn't want to give up on a factory Motorcraft cam sync with only 40K on it and having the audible squeak for only a very short time.
Most of that oil drained out of the sensor bolt holes. I have done the same but you should keep an eye on it because it also drives the oil pump. I have gotten six months from an oil application. Recently I just drilled a 1/16th in hole in the sensor cap and injected chain lube in a can with one of those red hoses. I put a dab of RTV over the hole.
 

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Thanks for the tip! I'm hoping that it will last longer than 6 months, since I think I caught it before it started to cause any damage. If I have to lube again, I'll use something heavier that doesn't gravitate down to the oil pan as fast.

Ford should have put a wick running down the center of the shaft like they did with their distributors back in the day. A few drops into the white felt wick once a year did the trick.
 

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Thanks for the tip! I'm hoping that it will last longer than 6 months, since I think I caught it before it started to cause any damage. If I have to lube again, I'll use something heavier that doesn't gravitate down to the oil pan as fast.

Ford should have put a wick running down the center of the shaft like they did with their distributors back in the day. A few drops into the white felt wick once a year did the trick.
When I replaced my synchro inside the block it looked like a little hole that may be feed by the camshaft oiling gallery and feeds into the little hole on the side of the synchronizer.
 

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Just replaced the camshaft synchronizer on my 2003 Taurus SE Vulcan 3.0L OHV car. Got one made by Standard Motor Products.

I did the method where you just mark the position of the old one with a white out pen and a toothpick, take pictures, and then drop the new one in the same position. It's a little tricky because the gear will rotate slightly counter clockwise as you lift it off the shaft...had to fiddle with it a bit but got it in and all is well, birds under my hood moved out...have driven it over 20 miles and no new issues or DTCs...



Hardest part was that wiring harness surrounded by molded plastic shield directly over the position sensor...I managed to man handle it over that hose elbow and then I simply held it out of the way with whatever fingers were free as I worked. That and a throttle body cleaning took me less than two hours, first time doing both.

Thank god for YouTube and forums like these!
 

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