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two things, NO,NO,NO!!! to the dorman parts only use the FORD part for this replacement.
second thing i replaced mine and the tdc issue is crazy, it seems that ford does not have a tdc mark on the block i tookthe wheelofff , gotit up in the air and had 4 people look for it , no luck.
after getting the syncro replaced i got a cel , so i repositioned it with the tool still cel so i drove it gas mileage was correct acceleration i s ok. so next week off to the dealer to get ripped maybe
The A1 Cardone used to be good until Dorman Syncros started making it into the reman process. Now A1 Cardone is just a good as dorman.

Which is why I said to get a Motorcraft one from the dealership.:rolleyes2:
 

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it does not need to be at TDC, as long as you put it in in the exact manner it came out, you will be fine. literally get out a ruler and use white out to draw 5-6 reference points, i did then on the intake manifold, head, block, and valve cover. :)
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2000 SE w/3.0L "U" type Vulcan

I installed my synchronizer replacement wrong, (despite trying use both good reference marks and the tool), and think it was because I was off on setting #1 at TDC.

Meanwhile I have finally found timing marks on my balancer, and now have 2 questions, before I redo it:

1). If I line up 0* mark with "the pointer" on the front cover....will that guarantee #1 piston will be at exact TDC ?? [provided of course compression stroke is confirmed, and balancer has not slipped]

2). If TDC use of the tool and so on; is all done right this time: Would not proper installation be positively confirmed, by confirming vane tab is in fact, directly opposite the sensor's magnet (confirming the signal is in fact being sent to PCM at exactly TDC)??

Thanks in advance to any whom cares to comment.


-Mike Pittsburgh PA
 

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Thanks to this thread I was able to diagnose the problem, order the part and fix it within 3 days for under $50!

I have an '02 Taurus with under 39k miles and mine just failed. I did the usual searching with a doweloscope only to be baffled enough to check online. I ordered the aftermarket part from Amazon and with 2 day shipping it was under $50. Getting to the cam sync on the engine was tough, but I just removed the throttle cable bracket, the 3 plug wires that run through the area, and a couple other hoses and harnesses. I was able to bend the big wire bundle/ harness that runs on top of the sync out of the way and secure it with a bungee.

If you have any knowledge of distributors or mechanic skills you can do this without finding TDC, as long as you mark the positions as mentioned by other posters. The alignment tool included with the part is only for putting the part in with the engine in TDC position. If you're not sure you can do this or find TDC then you should probably just pay the $200-$300 to get it fixed, just in case.
 

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cam synchronizer timing

I just replaced cam synchronizer and sensor in my 02 Taurus. I was very careful to create reference points in the old unit prior to removal. I was comfortable that alignment was accurate during installation. When starting the car after installation, a great deal of time cranking was necessary to fire up. The car started and seemed to run fine. The next day a great deal of cranking was again necessary. I seems I have the timing off. How do I get the proper timing back?
 

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addition to information base

After replacing the synchronizer and sensor, being very careful to reinstall according to reference marks, I had difficulty getting the car started and was triggering "check engine" light. Naturally I presumed that I had misaligned the synchronizer. Problem, as it turns out, resulted from temp sending unit that I replaced at the same time. Parts supplier gave me the wrong part and the computer was reading 338 degrees temp and wouldn't start. Right sending unit installed, no other changes, and the car runs very well with no chirp.
 

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If you buy a Cardone reman, pull it out of the box and look at it. The one I bought still said "Ford" on the casting. :thumb:
 

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Had to complete this swap yesterday. Few things I observed. Went to Autoz0ne for my parts...all parts seemed to be Dorman quality whether Dorman or Cardone. I drove over 40 miles to different stores to find ONE out of 15 that had almost no play in the shaft. I did see almost all have triple wall pins. I also found some were half cast and half milled with a set pin. All of the above were Cardone and at Autoz0ne only. Seems like quality will continue to be an issue.

I started this project thinking the DPFE? sensor was bad...but after changing the sensor; the motor felt better and didn't buck til after 2500rpm (up from 2000rpm). Changing the Sync fixed the issue completely.

I also must say I pulled the old unit before making marks to note placement (because the sensor was fused to the top). Setting to TDC was easy to fix that issue.

Gotta say I'm not a fan of Fords...but the thought put into placement of items on and around the motor (except for the wiring harness) is on par with Mercedes. This and alot of other minor repairs have been painless.
 

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Looking to replace Cam Synchronizer

So, I'm going to buy the assembly and have a mechanic do the labor only. First, what is the difference with the Cardone parts? They had 2:
A-1 CARDONE Part # 30S2600 w/Step on Plug
A-1 CARDONE Part # 30S2600L w/o Step on Plug
Anyone know what the Step on Plug is and what the difference is?

Also, any further word on if the rebuilt Cardone parts are failing and it's just better to go with the original ($60 vs $130)?

Appreciate any info greatly!!
 

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Is this cam part also found on the Duratec 24v. Our 03 Sable seems to be chirping, passenger side, 105,000+ miles.
Any chirp from the pas side likely something on the belt. Pulley, idler, belt, etc. Take the belt off and see if it goes away. Likely. Then turn each pulley and see if any one is noisy, rough, endplay or radial play. PS pump will have endplay but that is normal. Idler pulley and idler tensioner will chirp. Belt will chirp, even if it is not worn or cracked.


Running withour the belt should be done for only a few seconds, not over a minute if it is '00 and older as you have no water pump circulation. Later years drive the pump off the cam and not an issue for idling no belt.
-chart-
 

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syncro replacement

Great how-to. One question I have is regarding the positioning of the crankshaft during the operation. Every other bit I've read on replacing the synchronizer mentions (quite emphatically) that you need to be sure to position the no. 1 cylinder at the top dead center of the compression stroke. You didn't mention that, and I'm wondering if you got around that by marking the position of the synchronizer before you replaced it.

I'm getting ready to replace this myself, and wanted to get more info before I dive in.

Matt
DO NOT, DO NOT , DO NOT USE THE DOORMAN PART!!!!! only use the ford part
 

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Does anyone have the actual Ford part number for this part to plug into www.partsguyed.com for a price from them???
 

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F8DZ-12A362-AA

RockAuto.com has them for $90. Use the forum discount code for 5% off.
I assume that is rebuilt. Brand new from Horizon Ford it is $112.44 and 13.49 shipping. For peace of mind I will go this way as maybe after a $30 difference I'd rather have a new "Ford" part.

Many thanks for the number though...
 

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I got a CEL from this recently. I have no chirping noise, and have driven over 500 miles since getting the light with no change. The mechanic said that it was probably the sensor acting up, reset the light, and told me to come back if it came back on. It did, but there's still no noise or anything. Is it worth spending the $200 or so they estimated to replace the sensor?
 

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^ Click on the search feature at the top of this page and do a search. Many past threads. Some are sad. Cmp (camshaft position sensor) and camshaft synchronizer it bolts to, drive the oil pump and affect fuel injector timing.
 

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What do you say to spraying a little WD-40 down into the synchro? The chirping disappeared and hasn't been back for a couple weeks now, but I'm skeptical....

And as far as I can tell, it hasn't been firing smooth since I bought it. Could this be causing the hiccups?
 

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What do you say to spraying a little WD-40 down into the synchro? The chirping disappeared and hasn't been back for a couple weeks now, but I'm skeptical....

And as far as I can tell, it hasn't been firing smooth since I bought it. Could this be causing the hiccups?
when it comes to the syncro its better safe then sorry. I would replace it. if it is failing it can cost you a new engine. a bad syncro will make noise and cause the engine to run rough. in my opinion spending roughly $100 to $250 is better then $ 1000 to $ 2000.
 
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