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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Could someone please tell me which is the best way to get at a Vehicle Speed Sensor on a 93 3.8L with AXOD. I have looked at above, below, and right wheel , they all look pretty tough, any guidance?

Thanks
 

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I've had to have mine replaced three times in 5 years. The last two times I looked, considered, got frustrated, and had someone else do it. This last time I came close, but couldn't reach it. If you remove the airbox lid and intake hose, you should be able to snake your hand down near the tranny dipstick, and behind the exhaust manifold to the VSS.
Do a search of the forums here, or even out on the main page, and there's an article about it.
It should cost about $150 for an indy shop to replace it, plus diagnostics if you want.
 

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If you drop the exhaust pipe/converter assembly and lower the rear subframe you can reach it. Sounds like a fun afternoon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for info on this, got it done, took all day to figure my way around in there blind. Best way in was taking of the MAF and as much else as you can. Get ready for some scrapped and bruised knuckles and a few chest pains laying on top of the motor. Neighbors may stare a bit but worth getting up on top to reach down with maximum arm length. take off rear balck plastic cover on the firewall and you can reach one arm down on the left side of the manfold and snake you other hand over the shifting lever (remove lever shifter for more room) and in between block and manifold. Feel the sensor. Pull off heat shield cover, just clips, no screws. Use a 10mm to undo bolt. (Need long extensions) Pull out old sensor. Do not waste your time looking for another way, Spent all day doing that :) Only other way is to remove exhaust parts wich most of us BYM's do not have the desire to do. Speedo cable may need be pretty stiff, takes some yanking to pull out old sensor. YOu will be completely blind when removing the sensor so must rely on your feel only.

Done on a 93 Taurus, 3.8L AXOD.

6.5 Hours figuring out the best way,

45 Minutes doing the actual job.

Fixed some shifitng but still shakes a bit going into lockup, Any ideas?
 

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Good job. I have the same job on the same car to do. Tried what you ended up doing but my wrists and fingers are not limber enough to do it that way, so I will have to pop the exhaust pipe off. I appoligise for the bad info earlier. One does not have to drop the rear of the subframe. The shuddering going into lockup could just be dirty fluid. Have you changed fluid and filter recently?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah, I crushed my hands and fingers good to get them in there. found it best to close my eyes and just work that way. No I have not done the fluid yet, doing that this weekend. Will post and let you know if that helps. Otherwise, drive till she dies and keep a quarter in the ashtray to phone the towtruck.

-Win
 
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