Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
82 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Last week I drove about 500 miles to northern Vermont and everything was fine during the drive.
Turned the car off, unloaded it, turned it back on and I heard this very weird loud noise, exactly like water running at high pressure thru a pipe in your house. It got softer in a couple of minutes. This sound is there as soon as I start the car, whether the engine is cold or hot, whether the air is on or off, does not change with RPMs. At the same time, I can hear a very fast ticking sound, not loud, kinda low pitched, more like a fast rattle, coming from somewhere around the passenger side of the engine. This ticking sound changes as the RPMs go up, and gets very fast to the point where it' s continous.
Car drives perfectly. Can't tell if the A/C gets cold because it's cold around here now, but I believe it works since it defogs the windshield no problem.
All fluids are fine, radiator and trans properly flushed last summer. Serpentine belt changed 6000 miles ago along with a new alternator. Car has just turned 100K miles.
Any ideas?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Is that as far as you got to pinpointing where this sound is coming from? Could the ticking be coming from a fan? Do you hear these sounds more from inside or outside the car?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
953 Posts
Well let's think about this for a second.

A list of possibilities:

Water Pump (clicking noise and rushing sound)
Idler Pulley (clicking Noise)
Tensioner Pulley (clicking Noise)
Alternator (clicking noise)
AC compressor (clicking noise)
AC lines (rushing sound)
Water Reservoir Tank (rushing sound could be air from pressure inside leaking out)
Radiator or Rubber hoses to/from water pump, reservoir, radiator (rushing sound same as above)

That's about everything (off the top of my head) on the passenger side that could be making those noises. So let's try to narrow it down a bit more and then go from there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
82 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for your replies. I am back in NJ.
Now the rushing sound happens only when the car is cold. It goes away in 2 minutes. It's coming either from the water pump or A/C compressor if I had to pinpoint it, but I am not positive. You can hear it from both inside or outside the car.
I noticed though that the ticking/rattling sound seems to be coming from the A/C compressor. I took a picture of its pulley. Even though you can't tell from the picture, it seems that there is somewhat of a gap between the clutch and the pulley, to the point where you can see the bolts connecting them inbetween. There are metal shavings on the hose on the right of the picture and when the A/C is turned on it sounds as if the clutch wants to come off the pulley. A/C works fine and there is no coolant smell or loss.
Please let me know if I am not clear. I do all my maintainance on my cars but have never worked on the A/C compressor.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
82 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
guys, I am not in the army, but I really need your help.
Any thoughts about those metal shavings? Do you think that an A/C compressor clutch is all I need? Should I also do the pulley? I was thinking of doing the water pump as well.
Would it be wise to do the tensioner and idler pulley at the same time or would I just be wasting my money?100k miles on her.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,584 Posts
The photo clearly shows the gap on the ac magnetic plate and pulley.

I would say that what it shows is that the bearing in the ac pulley is shot.

You need to stop driving the car until you get that fixed, or the the pulley will ruin the ac clutch coil, and seize to it, ruining the serpentine belt and stranding you somewhere.

You can bypass the ac clutch pulley for a short time (the belt will rub lightly on the ac clutch pulley, and slowly gets cut/worn on the back of the belt).

You can but a complete clutch set (pulley, coil, and magnetic plate), or a complete ac compressor with clutch, or if you are in econo mode, just the pulley (if the other parts are not damaged).

If you are in econo mode, you need to drop the refrigerant charge, and inspect the parts before ordering what you need. A special tool is needed to hold the magntic plate so the bolt holding the clutch onto the compressor can be removed. I made one myself, but AutoZone Stores now have the tool you will need in the tool loan program.

There are shims used to set the clearance between the magnetic plate and the clutch pulley. They come in a set of five with the ones being used installed on the clutch mounting bolt behind the magnetic plate. The spare ones are stored on the bolt itself, infront of the magnetic plate. When you get to the point where you are taking the plate off, be careful to note where they were when you took them off. The shims only come in sets for like $25, and you may need some, none, or all of them (they are three different sizes).

While you are in there, check the tensioner and idler pulleys. They often go bad before 100K miles. Spin by hand, if loose or gritty, replace. Good ones will spin smooth, and a little drag provided by the grease that is in the bearings. Free spinning? No grease left, replace it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
82 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Thanks. I think I'll do the complete clutch set. Car is not being driven now, but I put 500 miles on it to come back home. Rockauto has a set from Four Seasons. Is it decent or should I go Motorcraft?
Can it be done without opening the refrigerant lines?
I looked for step by step instructions on the wiki and used the search button but could not come up with anything.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,392 Posts
I've learned my lession in the past about aftermarket a/c compressors(new)-they don't last! I would only put a new Motorcraft on there if you like working a/c. Make sure that the entire system gets flushed out well, esp the condensor-they're known to get a build up of sludge in there, even without compressor failure. Don't forget to change out the accumulator, too, as it can also build up in there. One more thing, don't even bother with a rebuilt compressor-they're garbage. The shafts have movement in rebuilt compressors, water pumps, and even alternators, which wears out the seals, now you have leakage. Only buy "new" a/c parts, not re-mans. I would try Rock-auto.com On the bright side, a Motorcraft compressor costs half of what Delco compressor cost for my Buick. Even if you just replace the clutch, go Motorcraft :ford:
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
About this Discussion
9 Replies
6 Participants
austex04
Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
A forum community dedicated to the Ford Taurus and SHO models, Mercury Sable and Lincoln MKS. Join the discussions on EcoBoost, aftermarket performance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Top