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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My system has no freon pretty much and the compressor has stopped kicking in. It would kick in and out real fast towards then end then just stopped. My question is, will I have to jump the compressor and kick it in manually to charge it or can I hook a can to it and it will recognize it and start kicking on?
 

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You don't want to turn the can upside down or do the 3 o'clock to 6 o'clock shaking method that is on the can. The system (compressor really) is built to compress and move GAS not LIQUID.

This is why putting the can upright in a warm/hot water bath is preferred. As with any compressed gas (propane for example) as it turns from liquid to gas the cans become really cold and the flow of gas slows down greatly.

Keeping the can in hot/warm water will allow the R134a refrigerant to maintain a quick flow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The one you don't have to force the hose onto! They're different sizes on the r1340-a systems so you can't screw it up
UPDATE!

I bought a can of freon and put it in, the compressor kicked on and it started cooling... The system was completely empty... Now it kicks on and off fast SOMETIMES but when I'm sitting still in park is when it seems to cool the best. When I start driving the air is cool but not cold but if I'm sitting in park not moving it gets colder... Any ideas?
 

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The compressor should not kick on and off fast. Above 70-75 Deg F ambient it should be on most of the time. Is the low side line to the compressor cold?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The compressor should not kick on and off fast. Above 70-75 Deg F ambient it should be on most of the time. Is the low side line to the compressor cold?
Not very cold. Like I said, the system was 100% empty... I only added one can out of fear I would put too much (wasn't using a gauge). When i'm sitting still it will kick on for a while and the air gets cold, when I start driving it kicks in and out and the air is "cool". My guess is I need more freon but if you have suggestions I'm all ears. A\C isn't something I'm experienced with.
 

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If the low side line at the compressor is not cold, try adding more, a little at a time(3-4 Oz). Stop when the line is cold. It's best to use a guage set, however.
 

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You need to find the source of the leak and fix it. If the system was empty, you must have a reasonably large leak. Filling with 134a will keep it cool until it leaks out again.... maybe a few days or weeks.

One can is only about 40% of a full charge, assuning it was originally completely empty.
 

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Our Jeep Cherokee did the same thing when it got lower on freon. It cycled on and off quickly untill I added enough freon back in. In our case, we had dye put in and found it needs a new evaporator and the o-rings where also leaking slowly. Repairing the leaks is really the only way to ensure good operation.
The other issue is that running the a/c low on freon isn't good because the oil that lubricates the compressor is mixed with the freon and without it could damage the compressor if you are still trying to use the a/c.

On a side note, I wish I had heard that putting the can in warm water tip when I was recharging the Jeep! Good tip!!
 

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If it hasn't worked for a long time and you just want to bring it back to life, adding refrigerant is fine. If it only holds for a week or so, you need to fix the leak. My Jeep also had it's evaporator fail. There's no screen to keep leaves, etc. from reaching the evap. coil. When they decay and get wet, the acid eats through the coil. Poor design.
 

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Also you should really pull a vacuum before refilling the system or the humidity will react with R134a and create an acid. Vacuum pumps can be rented I believe. If your R134a contains a colorant you might be able to find the leak with that, especially if it is big.

Also a good set of gauges would help a lot to know what is going on. I also used them to refill the system, though I now moved to an electronic scale which is much more precise of course.
 

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Fully agree with egiroux.
This is the one I own and I like it very much (website is to show the tool and not where I bought it).

Amazon.com: SPX TIFZX1 TIF Heated Pentode Refrigerant Leak Detector: Home Improvement

A/C work can take some specialized tools, I know they were an expense but they helped me fix all my A/C problems.

Some of the tools needed:

- Good set of gauges
- Vacuum pump (and reading on how to operate it the correct way)

For R134a I prefer to 30lbs tanks (Sam's Club has them).

Also nice to have:

- Electronic A/C scale
- Vacuum gauge (microns)
 

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A Taurus A/C requires a minimum of 2 cans of freon to operate properly. You should add another can that has dye in it and get you a detector light (black light). Also get some yellow tinted glasses and have a look under the hood with the light. Any leaks will glow bright green.
 

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Don't forget about oil

If your refrigerant completely leaked out, some amount of oil did it too (they are mixed). It is hard to estimate how many oil you need to add in your case, but I think that at least half of it was trapped in accumulator, condenser, evaporator and compressor, so it will be safe to add at least 3-4 oz. Full capacity of system is 8 oz of oil (AFAIK, so anybody who knows that exactly, correct me if I am wrong). Type of oil is PAG 100 (AFAIK again). You know, it is much better to have a little more oil than specified, in comparison with having less oil.

O-o-ops - looks like I made mistake about PAG oil viscosity and it should be PAG 46.
 

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You cannot simply add a can to an empty system. You have to have it evacuated. You can add to a system that was low, but once the system looses pressure regular air, with water vapor in it, gets into the system. You have to get this all out before refilling the system, otherwise it won't even work.
 
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