Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
460 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
No vacuum leaks. I've replaced IACV and PCV. Cleaned the manifold (Seafoam), entire throttle body.

The cold idle became a lot worse over the last few days. Starts up at 1500rpm, jumps up to 1800, drops to 1400, back up 1500 etc until it drops down to 1000rpm and even then it bounces 100-300 rpm until warm.
So to the point. I'm going to order the intake manifold gaskets via RockAuto but there's three choices. I've never done this before so should I get the most expensive (includes everything)? They all show the same thing. Should I also replace the EGR gaskets? I believe I have to remove that to remove the manifold.
TIA
 

·
Owner of #RaceSable
Joined
·
2,398 Posts
FelPro, that is all. I plan getting some for their gaskets for my Sable. Even Sam used FelPro gaskets when he did the intake gaskets on his old 2000 Sable.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
257 Posts
Felpro are the way to go and yes replace the EGR gaskets as well. It's good insurance and you'll need to pull it off anyway to get to the UIM/LIM.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
460 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I just bought a 2004 Sable with the same 'Tec engine and it's in less than favorable shape. It is 10x quicker than mine. After driving mine again, it feels like a Vulcan motor.
When I get in the Sable and use the throttle like I do in my Taurus, I get pushed back in the seat.

I just want to make sure that the intake gaskets is a likely cause...I've replaced the PCV and IACV with Motorcraft, and cleaned the throttle body many times. I scanned it too even when cold starting, nothing came up.

After replacing the plugs back in March, the car felt a lot quicker and got better MPG. The intake gaskets weren't replaced. Shortly after that, it started cranking longer in the cold and idling bad when cold, and became a bit sluggish.
I don't have $300 to throw at it if it won't help, but it sounds like the culprit.
Any opinions on anything else to check?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,304 Posts
I don't have $300 to throw at it if it won't help, but it sounds like the culprit.
Are you talking UIM/LIM gaskets here? if so, $10-$15 plus a couple of hours if it is your first time and you are being extra careful.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
14,337 Posts
FelPro, that is all. I plan getting some for their gaskets for my Sable. Even Sam used FelPro gaskets when he did the intake gaskets on his old 2000 Sable.
This^^

I used the complete Felpro set on mt 01 and I have no issues with them roughly 3 years and 20K miles later.

If it's sluggish and doesn't feel like it has the power it used to I would be suspecting a blockage in the 3rd cat, which seems to be common. I have a topic about it(if you search :) )
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
460 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
This^^

I used the complete Felpro set on mt 01 and I have no issues with them roughly 3 years and 20K miles later.

If it's sluggish and doesn't feel like it has the power it used to I would be suspecting a blockage in the 3rd cat, which seems to be common. I have a topic about it(if you search :) )
Thank you, Ill look into that. It should be the intake gaskets. Around the time the plugs were done, right when the engine shuts down it makes a loud hiss from the intake area. Only for a second though as it shuts off, not like a leaking vacuum line after it shut off. The sable doesnt do that.
 

·
Has It Been That Long?
Joined
·
12,011 Posts
Yeah, for an experienced guy it should take an hour, 90 minutes tops. $300 is an awful lot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,454 Posts
$300 sounds about right for 2hrs labor + shop fees and taxes.

This is part of the reason why I recommend doing it as park of the 100k spark plug change. You either have to remove the cowling or pull the intake. You might as well pull the intake and replace the PCV + hose, plugs + wires or rotate COP + UIM/LIM gaskets. And if needed valve cover gaskets.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
460 Posts
Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I would like to replace the wires while I'm in there, but it seems to be an online only thing for Motorcraft or Autolite.. Unless I got a part store brand wireset :rolleyes2:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,230 Posts
$300 sounds about right for 2hrs labor + shop fees and taxes.

This is part of the reason why I recommend doing it as park of the 100k spark plug change. You either have to remove the cowling or pull the intake. You might as well pull the intake and replace the PCV + hose, plugs + wires or rotate COP + UIM/LIM gaskets. And if needed valve cover gaskets.
That's a good idea, actually. Would only take an afternoon presumably if you have little experience.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
460 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Pcv was replaced last month to try and fix these issues.
Napa has Belden premium wires for $45, DirtyWhiteBull, if your performance and mpg is just as good, I'll keep the extra $20 and not get motorcraft. :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,230 Posts
Pcv was replaced last month to try and fix these issues.
Napa has Belden premium wires for $45, DirtyWhiteBull, if your performance and mpg is just as good, I'll keep the extra $20 and not get motorcraft. :D
Be warned, I work at NAPA and have seen defective Belden sets go out the door before :rolleyes2:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,304 Posts
Be warned, I work at NAPA and have seen defective Belden sets go out the door before :rolleyes2:
I suppose that buying any part is a crapshoot, I'm sure that there have been defective Motorcraft wire sets out of the box also. That being said, other than a few critical parts that have had widespread failures when other than Motorcraft, I prefer buying parts locally for ease of return if they are bad. (Local Ford dealers are ridiculously priced, so if Motorcraft parts that I need are not available at O'Reilly, it's usually RockAuto)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
460 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Done!

I thought of it at the last minute that I have COPs, no wires.

I finally got to it. I doused the MAF with cleaner. Started up better and idled at 1300RPM almost steady for 3 minutes straight (hasn't done that since last spring) It used to bounce around there and reluctantly drop down after 15 seconds and bounce.

I let it warm up and drove to my (other) mechanic friends house and got to work.


The old green gaskets didn't appear to be that bad, just dirty:


Old EGR gaskets were shot:


But... as I went around the plenum bolts to make sure they were tight, I applied maybe 1/4 pound of pressure on the end one and it snapped. It won't tighten now, it's just wobbling there. No issues right now anyway. Highlighted in red:


I also tried removing the hose that connects to the throttle body, I was 100% sure it was a vacuum hose. When I pulled it off, coolant sprayed everywhere including my mouth and air filter. (I can still taste it as I switch to a K&N drop-in.)

My friend checked all the plugs. They all had bad, various gaps from 1.50-1.70 :huh: :dunno: All were reset correctly. Car idles great now and I have 90% of my power back. Replaced the TB gasket, still lunges forward at 5mph when stopping though.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top