Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,930 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I know there are various items on Tauri that should be checked out before buying one used, such as the transmission, but how about a 92 SHO MTX?

Some one is selling one where my Dad works, and I'm interested.

1992 Taurus SHO MTX
139,000 Miles (119,000 miles on current engine)
SHO NUT Performance clutch
Glasspack mufflers w/ chrome tips
JBL Premium Sound System
New Radiator
New Hood
New Tires
Alarm

$2100 OBO

I don't know much about SHO's, but I'm guessing this isn't a bad price. Basically, what parts should I check out before making a decision? We're going to check it out at 4 pm tomorrow.

Thanks

Rob
 
X

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Not really knowledgable about sho's. Might want to check the shoforum. However, I know one really important thing on the v6's is the 60k service. Since that car has more than 120k miles, it should have had two done by now.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,228 Posts
yea like he said go over to shoforum and have a peak around....and at the quaker steak meet you seen what a good sho looks like so kinda compare the ones that were there to that car....look for just around the gas cap and fender wells as well as on the doors inside and out....get under the car and look for frame rot and look at the subframe bushings....aslo look at the rear struts and sprins for rear end sag(typical to all shos)...under the hood look at the intake or scrapes or rub marks on the intake(signs of bad motor mounts or subframe bushings)....ask for all service records if they have them...when you start the engine listen for tickling or knocking from the valve train and bottom end of the engine either or is bad(both are preventable with valve adjustments and rod beaing replacement) both of those are usually 60k items....check the waterpump and radiaitor leakage(common on most sho's)....move the shifter around witht he car off and check for ths shifter binding up and also depress the clutch pedal and see how heavy it it is....usually should be fairly easy to move in and out...if heavy that means the clutch is worn out and will need to be replaced soon...and i'm not 1000% sure but i think a sho nut clutch show be near stock when it comes to how heavy the pedal is...check the eatc for cracked buttons....uncracked buttons means the car was well maintained....when driving the car check for shifter notchyness and clutch disengangement...also look for smoke on start up and when at wot....also find a straigh smooth road and go about 30 mph and just let go of the wheel while still on the gas to see if the car pulls to either side.....check the brakes(common for them to throw caliper bolts and just plain wear them out)...also check the plug wells 4 oil....a clssic sign of a non 60k car and that it was well maintained...it easily fixed with new gaskets....check the front seats fro rips and tears on full leather seats....also the doors like to stick on these cars for some reason 2 so i'd look ta the hinges to see if there lubbed(not a big deal just an anal thing)....and then just look for the rest of the stuff you'd look for when buying a used car...and one more thing when your under the car look at the oil pan and trany case of oil...they like to leak oil out of the pan gasket and oil level sensor and sometimes the rear mainseal or valve covers....and look for tranny fluid near the half shafts where they enter the tranny.....and one thing if you do buy it ...some words of advice...do dog they tranny...no power shifting, clutch dumps,burnouts,ect the differential on the trany is too weak and will break and throw a pin through the case and make a big ole hole like on my tranny.....and also keep a regualr schedule maintence on the car change the oil every 2500-3000 miles with dino oil of your choising but most ppl useeither castol gtx or mobil...and higher end filters....also do the 60k right at or before the 60,000 mile interval car runs smoother and better with this done...and if it wasn't done replace the rod beaings with your first oil change you do.....90% of the engine failkures in sho's are do the rod bearing failure so it's a cheap saftey precaution...and only like 65 bucks to do all of them including seals....just be careful and look over the car carefully and thoughly take it out for a test drive and look for weird noises and such and just be careful cause they can a handleful when they break down...now witht hat said go look at the car and if it's good buy it and you'll love every second of it!..trust me
...any if you have any q's just shoot me an email or pm or just ask for my # and call me if you have any q's 2
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,306 Posts
go to shotimes.com ; they have a great FAQ for people looking for used SHO's. Basically, its all about the 60k service, and making sure that all the proper maintainance items have been met.
 
J

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Would this be a replacement for your SLO, or an addition to the family? Either way, good luck, I hope it's a good one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
379 Posts
Good info here: SHOTimes Maintenance Page

In addition to what's been mentioned, I would also pull the codes from any SHO that I was thinking of buying.


Good luck, hope it works out.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,930 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the info everyone, especially you Greg.

QUOTE
Would this be a replacement for your SLO, or an addition to the family? Either way, good luck, I hope it's a good one.[/b]
Well, my sister's going to need/want a car soon (almost 16), so if I end up getting the SHO, the SLO will be hers to drive. Either way, the SLO will still be around. I'm just worried the 97 will end up like the Taurus Mikey gave to his brother. In other words, I'm not too sure it will be around much longer if my sister's going to be driving it.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top