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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey fellow bull riders! Need some help here regarding the replacement of the upper, lower manifold gaskets and valve cover gaskets on my 2005 Taurus SEL.
I have been having a CEL come on intermittently and finally gave up and took the car to a shop with a smoke mach. They are telling me that all these areas are leaking and it will cost 400-500 to get it done.
The car seems to run fine except for some jumping up and down when I am at a red light or stop sign about 50 RPM. I have had the fuel filter replaced and there are no oil leaks. The car has 121K on it.

1. How big a deal is it to replace these gaskets? I am pretty handy but my time and place to work on the care are very limited.
2. How unusual it to have gasket problems in all three of these areas at the same time.
3. Any hints, directions on how to do this or any other helpful info would be appreciated. Thanks to you all.
fun2no33
 

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The car seems to run fine except for some jumping up and down when I am at a red light or stop sign about 50 RPM.

Mine has done that since I have had the car. The part where they tell you that you need value cover gaskets, eventhough you have no oil leaks makes me think something is fishy. What codes were showing?
 

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1. How big a deal is it to replace these gaskets? I am pretty handy but my time and place to work on the care are very limited.
2. How unusual it to have gasket problems in all three of these areas at the same time.
3. Any hints, directions on how to do this or any other helpful info would be appreciated. Thanks to you all.
fun2no33
1. If you've never done them before, it could take all Saturday and a few hours after church Sunday.
2.With 121K miles, it's entirely likely.
3.Plenty of directions on the site. Just use the search.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I dont remember the exact code numbers but they were for "lean bank 1 & 2". Prior to this I have had code P0300 "ramdom misfire" which went away after replacing the intake manifold tuning valve O ring. Except for the light and the up & down rpms when at a red light when the engine idles, the car runs great.
 

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Sounds like yours has the same symptoms mine does. However I do question the lower intake manifold gasket and the valve cover gaskets.

I plane on replacing the gasket between the upper and lower intake manifold once it starts to warm up.
 

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My 2003 Duratec DOHC has some oil around the upper intake plenum (where it bolts to the lower). I see this on both front and back (up under the intake plenum). We just had the car serviced (oil change and coolant flush) at the dealer at 102K miles. I didn't notice this oil there before. Is that a place where it might leak oil? If so, would the upper gasket set correct the issue? I was thinking of doing plugs and possibly wires (is that necessary at 100K) as well if I have to remove the intake plenum. Do most people replace just the upper gaskets or do they do lower as well? My lower ones don't appear to be leaking anything but won't be able to tell for sure till I pull things off.
 

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My 2003 Duratec DOHC has some oil around the upper intake plenum (where it bolts to the lower). I see this on both front and back (up under the intake plenum). We just had the car serviced (oil change and coolant flush) at the dealer at 102K miles. I didn't notice this oil there before. Is that a place where it might leak oil? If so, would the upper gasket set correct the issue? I was thinking of doing plugs and possibly wires (is that necessary at 100K) as well if I have to remove the intake plenum. Do most people replace just the upper gaskets or do they do lower as well? My lower ones don't appear to be leaking anything but won't be able to tell for sure till I pull things off.
If you have 100,000 miles on your plugs, it's definitly time to change them. I am getting ready to change my plugs, and maybe even the coil packs. I'm waiting on the 2004 Service Repair Manual so I have all the right torque specs. My number 3 cylinder is misfiring, so I am going to change all the plugs. I will be pulling the upper intake manifold for sure. I am going to inspect and clean everything. I might even pull the lower intake manifold as well. If it isn't too much trouble, then I will have cleaned everything, and installed fresh gaskets. I even went and bought a new torque wrench today, since the one I had grew legs and walked off. Actually I think I let someone borrow it, and I don't remember who.
 

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I realize I was not too clear on my message. I am definitely going to change plugs and the upper intake gaskets since I have to remove it. What I am unsure on is the wires. The car runs fine but it would be a good time to do it when I have the intake off. They cost around $60. What do others recommend? I will be going back with Motorcraft plugs/wires. Also how often do the lower intake gaskets give problems? I would rather not mess with them or the fuel rail.

The thing that puzzles me is the oil on the upper intake plenum where it bolts on (nothing on the lower). We had the oil changed last week at the same time they did the coolant flush so I am wondering if they spilled some oil. It is defiantly new oil and not old. At first I assumed it was coolant because it was "golden in color" but after putting it on a white paper towel I could tell it was oil. I am going to wipe it clean tonight and see if it comes back. Would oil be up in that part of the intake? I have attached some photos.

Thanks
 

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Change the lowers, too. The fuel rail is easy, just pick up the push-in clip tool.
 

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You don't have to remove the fuel rail to replace the lower intake gaskets. There are 4(?) bolts that hole the fuel rail to the lower intake that you do not have to remove. The 4 bolts will hold the injectors between the fuel rail and lower intake.

The 4 bolts that you don't have to removed will look like the picture on the right with the metal tab coming off the fuel rail. The bolts you have to remove will not have the metal tab. The picture on the left has the bolts to remove, to the left and down from the center of the picture.

Since you will have everything off anyways replace the PCV valve and hose. The hose will have reinforcements to prevent the 90deg bend from collapsing. You can search my posts, i listed the parts and prices from rock auto.
 

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Your previous post save me big $$$ and time. About two months ago I replaced the PVC valve and hose (mine developed the hole that was only visible when the engine was running). I used the socket and an extension to get to the valve and bought the redesigned hose. So thanks a bunch!

As for the fuel rail, are you saying leave it attached to the intake and just slide the new gasket under the intake manifold. Maybe it will be more evident when I actually start removing everything.
 

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after the lower intake is unbolted from the head, you can lift it up and move it around. there is a section of rubber fuel line connecting the rail to the hard lines.

Also it would be a good time to clean the ground strap from the block to the frame. You will see the braided wire after the upper intake is off. put some die electric grease on the contacts to prevent future corrosion after you clean everything. Don't forget to put some on both ends of the spark plug wires.

Also, check all of the vac lines while everything is accessible.
 
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I have not had a chance to work on the car, got sick this week.
Anyway, I plan on changing the plugs and wires, and the upper and lower intake gaskets. I will also clean the grounding strap as was indicated in the previous post.

But still, does anyone know why there would be oil around the upper intake plenum just where it seats to the lower (like in the pictures I posted earlier)? I have wiped it clean only to have it come back. I have talked to a few people and they said that oil should not be up in the upper intake plenum. It just does not make sense to me. Shouldn't there only be air forced down past the injectors?

I did change the PCV valve and hose (both motorcraft parts) back in November so I don't think that is the issue.

The car runs fine and does not miss or smoke. We had the coolant flushed and oil changed at the Ford Dealer just before I noticed this "leak"

One final thing, the previous post about not pulling the fuel rail got me to thinking about the injector o-rings. Would I expect these to fail soon? It would of course be the best time to replace them when I had all of this off but if it is not necessary, then I would rather not mess with them.

Thanks for all your help. Sorry for my limited knowledge. I have replaced the intake gasket and valve cover gaskets on a Chevy 4.3 but that was because it had a coolant leak. This DOHC engine is quite different with the plastic intake manifold.
 

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I have been dealing with this paranormal symptoms of the engine missing when the heater or defrost or ac is on and the irritable take off that acts like it's chugging when you go to take off... This is what I know for sure...
1.) changed the coil pack- it had hairline cracks in the side of the casing of it.
2.) changed spark plugs and wires... I also used the end of the spark plug wires that you push on the coil pack(s) end, to fix the problem of the vent tubes on front and back valve cover with deteriorating 90 degree elbows, just the rubber boot part of it... Perfect fit with that. The rubber 90 that is under the upper intake plenum(plastic) and goes to the PCV valve collapses on itself, I put a recoil spring on the inside of it so it will no longer collapse anymore
3.) changed the vacuum hose on the back side of the motor, it had melted on the EGR tube
4.) Have had the airbag light on now for a year or so, still trying to fix it so the air bags will work if it is in an accident. Have changed the frontal crash severity sensor which was all corroded and cracked from the swelling corrosion in side the sensor. Have changed the air bag module next to the firewall, under the heater plenum in front of the counsel... To no avail, the light is still on.
5.) I'm going to change the vent tube on top of the transmission and see if some of my symptoms go away.
6.) I also replaced IAC but not with a new one so I have to still change that because it is what raises the idle when a power load comes online like the A/C compressor, the A/C or defrost heater kicking in so the engine misses at a red light when heater Ac or defrost is on. I have cleaned and lubed it and it works for a little while then it stops working the way it should. I'm thinking actually that this transmission vent might be part of the over all problem.
7.) I also ground the little plastic mold tab that is on the corner of the valve covers, I ground the valve cover in the back so if water gets on the valve cover, it has a place to drain off without flirting with the spark plug holes and wires... Someone posted a pic of this some where here, I'm sorry I don't know where...
8.) I know that I need to change the oil pan gasket as well, I use 5w30 instead of 5W20, and it leaks a whole lot less... A quart of oil now depleets with like 2000 miles instead of having to add a quart like every 1000 miles like I did when I put 5w20 in it.
9.) I have replaced the a/c compressor and recharged the system
10.) Have dealt with a blower motor that took on lots of water from water leaking down in there from the right side in front of the winshield where the cabin air filter is mounted... Need to replace it sometime but won't do it until I have fixed the problem with the water getting in there in the first place
I could do this all day! Honestly I have been befuckled a lot with this car, however it has all been me throwing parts at it trying to fix it... Yeah right! I love the car, on the freeway it drives like a dream. Honestly I can let go of the steering wheel while on the freeway and it stays, on the right stretch of freeway, like at least a half of a mile before it drifts and I grab back on to the steering wheel. I'm confident that I will get her fixed and I'd like to thank all of you who come here and share your knowledge. This forum has already pointed me to fix three of the symptoms it's had. Keep us in the answers that all may have when you come here because it 's so much nicer than receiving a $1,500 shop bill... Thanks again and keep up the great working progress of sharing knowledge... B)
 

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Thanks to taz, I've added a new word to my vocabulary: "befuckled."
 

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Lol

Befuckled: confused, stumped, lack of purpose to a project and or direction to next course of action.
'I'm befuckled as to why the airbag light is on':huh:
'This will continue to befuckle me until I find the problem':angry:
'Blonds befucklingly complicate things with their habitual short cut to thinking':wub:
'They sure can N-rig(Afro Engineer) an easy project into befuckleness' :rolleyes2:
 

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This is not that difficult to do, just take your time, if you get a good morning start on Saturday, you should be done by mid afternoon..

As noted, get the parts listed in this and other posts. For the gaskets, get the PermaDry sets, they last longer, better quality than OEM. You will need some RTV, but don't use it unless directed. You will need a torque wrench to do this properly. If you don't already have a repair manual of some type, I do recommend picking one up, it contains the torque sequence and other stuff. The manuals are not always right on the procedures, but the specs are correct. I would replace the injector O-rings too. Lubricate those with a little light oil so they don't bind up going in.
 

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