Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,022 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
What you'll need:
Underbody coating. I used Gunk brand rubberized underbody coating. Man this stuff is nasty - very tar-like.


I used 8 cans on my SHO and 8 cans on my GTP. It is about $2.50/can at Farm&Fleet.


Glass cleaner
Paper towels (LOTS of them)
Masking/painters tape
Jackstand (4)
Jack
Creeper (optional)
Trouble light
Engine degreaser (at least one can, two preferred)

NOTE: This undercoating WILL drip everywhere and WILL end up on your skin and hair. Engine degreaser is very good at removing it, but to save the hassle and smell of practically bathing in engine degreaser, do yourself a favor and wear long pants and long sleeves. If you have long hair like I do, use a hoodie or a stocking cap. Also, cover the ground underneath the car if you don't want a million undercoating droplets all over.

1. Jack up car and put all four corners on jackstands. Put front two jackstands on subframe if possible.



2. Using creeper, trouble light, towels, and glass cleaner, get under car and THOROUGHLY clean underside of car. This is very time consuming and a pain, but it is imperative that the underside of the car be dirt-free for the undercoating to adhere properly.


3. Mask off rocker panels. Be sure to mask off at least 3" deep for overspray. Underbody coating has a very precise spray pattern and little overspray, so it's not hard to put it where you want it. The engine degreaser will easily remove any overspray as well.

4. Coat car. Hold cans 12"+ away from surface, and do multiple light coats. The coating will drip off if you spray too much in one area. Also be sure to hit the car from many different angles to ensure you got every nook and cranny. The trouble light will help you see where you need to spray, especially if you have a dark car. Be sure to keep coating from exhaust piping and catalytic converters, as burning undercoating has a pungent and long-lasting smell (trust me).

5. Drop Car down. If jackstands covered an area that needs coating, be sure to hit that area now.

6. Let car sit overnight before driving.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,390 Posts
aaannnddd bookmarked. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
100 Posts
made it with Dinitrol coating, but on the specialized service, and it was really made in time. And I also protected the cavities of all 4 doors and the boot lid with special dinitrol compound. Btw, I found corrosion under front protective wheelarch liners and asked to make a coating there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
I'm somewhat skeptical of this product. Despite good surface preparation, with time I believe it has a tendency to delaminate from the surface and trap corrodants, resulting in poultice corrosion (worse than regular corrosion). As in any rustproofing thread, I mention that Texaco Rustproof Compound L is the stuff to use if you're serious about rustproofing. I have 25 years experience with it... 18 years with the winter car I presently drive here in the Rust Belt. It is greasy, dries out only very slowly, and if reapplied every few years it will protect the treated surfaces from corrosion for practically the life of the car.

Too often I read people offering other suggestions such as POR-15, cosmoline, waxy, or rubberized undercoatings. But as yet, nobody can back up their suggestions with honest, personal, long-term experience to claim the efficacy of these other products in the harsh environments of everyday driving in the salt and slush of winter.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,022 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
That would most likely be because products like POR-15 haven't been around long enough - doesn't mean they're not good products, though.

I have no fear about this product delaminating.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,126 Posts
Well it's been paid for for years now and I have had a lot of fun in it..... :chili: :chili:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
17,415 Posts
Well it's been paid for for years now and I have had a lot of fun in it..... :chili: :chili:
[/b]
Along the lines of what Rudy said...throw a Vulcan under the hood (if you want to save the V8)...but go to take it to this crazy Canadian: Dave's Farm
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
233 Posts
If I undercoat my 95, will this prevent the rust thats there from going any further?

I plan on knocking off all the "loose" rust and cleaning it a lot prior to undercoating it. None of the rust is through yet, it's just heavy surface rust.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,586 Posts
problem is its rubber right?
my 94 jeep has undercoating from the factory. or something, im the second owner. anyways. 14 years sure makes rubber rot goot. the undercoating is just kinda "oozing" off
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,895 Posts
<div class='quotemain'>
On a Taurus, remove the plastic rocker mouldings before undercoating!

This car was undercoated on the floor pan, but the rockers were not removed.
[/b]

ugh - I'm almost scared to see what it looks like under the '97's rocker panels.
[/b][/quote]


I can give you an idea of what theyd look like Ash. I had to raplace mine when I had my car painted a while back. Those side skirts hole everything in against them.The holes you see are made by the guy who removed those. He used an air chisel on them. My new rockers are made of 18-gauge steel, instead of the 22 that was there.

The picture of the wheel well is just to show what that sound insulation stuff does. When I took it off it was soaked with salt water.

also to add to the undercoating, I don't like using the tar like stuff. I've found that over time it cracks and allows water to get under it and the udnercoating holds it in. I use the oil based stuff on mine every year and touch-ups every so often with fluid film. Not to mentoni the oil based stuff creeps into all the little cracks and seems.


 

Attachments

1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top