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Discussion Starter #1
Have a 2000 SE with the VUlcan, 75k miles.

#1 - Anyone tell me the process of changing the serpentine belt?

#2 - Anyone experience a "rattling" heat shield that covers the exhaust manifold?

Thanks
 
J

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There is a tensioner pulley that you just put your socket on and turn clockwise I believe to loosen. You can figure out which one is the tensioner by pulling on the belt and seeing which pulley moves, if that makes sense.

Hope this helps. :)

There is a known issue for the heat shield rattle. Try doing a search to find info on it. If I find anything, I'll post a link to it. :)
 

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I just did mine. My car is a bit older (1990) but also has the Vulcan, so I would expect yours to be similar. I removed the coolant reservoir for easier access. I used the belt diagram in the engine compartment (the one in my Haynes manual didn't match exactly how my car looked like :huh: ). Then, as Jason said, I put a 1/2inch ratchet on the square hole (there is only one... you can't miss it) and rotated the wrench clockwise, which moves the tensioner left (if that makes sense). at this point, you can easily remove the belt... and as usual, instalation is reverse of removal.

One more thing: there are two belts: the alternator and the power steering belts. The above applies to the power steering belt. For the alternator belt, you need to loosen the pivot alternator bolt, then the bolt that secures the adjustment and, finally, the adjustment the screw. It takes a bit lower the alternator enough to be able to remove the belt but it's just a bolt, right?

Ahh and also make sure you clean the pulleys very well with a rag and some degreaser (I used 409) before installing the new belt (this was suggested on a previous thread). My car was 'chirping' before the change and now it's only VRRRMMM, VRMMMM :banana:

Hope this helps. Good luck.

DD
 

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I have a 97 duratec and my heat shield rattles to beat the band. I can't even find the damned thing. I'm tempted to have an entirely new flowmaster exhaust installed just to get rid of it...start with a racing manifold and work my way back.

Before I overhaul the exhaust though, where is the heat shield on a gen III duratec? A nudge in the right direction would be a major step in saving my sanity.

Thanks guys and gals.
 

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Originally posted by LoadedLX@Jun 30 2004, 07:54 PM
I have a 97 duratec and my heat shield rattles to beat the band.  I can't even find the damned thing.  I'm tempted to have an entirely new flowmaster exhaust installed just to get rid of it...start with a racing manifold and work my way back. 

Before I overhaul the exhaust though, where is the heat shield on a gen III duratec?  A nudge in the right direction would be a major step in saving my sanity.

Thanks guys and gals.
Yeah the exhaust on a gen3 duratec has two cats and each has its own heat shield above and below that encase the cats.

I hate to break it to you but unless i missed something or something has come out in the last month or so there aren't any performance manifolds or exhaust systems you can purchase for the taurus/sable duratec. You pretty much have to custom fab anything special or have a shop create a custom system for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok, hate to keep beating a dead horse but I need some more help.

I read in one post to take a breaker bar or the like and turn the tensioner to loosen the belt. Everyone says it's like a 5 minute job, but I swear I don't know where the tensioner is.

I am leaving for a 500 mile trip in 5 hours and was hoping to get this done before. Guess I won't. I'm hoping that I can do it while I am in Florida (I am taking belt and tools anyway).

Can anyone help me out with "painting me a picture" or even posting pics?

Thanks in advance.
 

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If you have a catalatic converter heat shield thats rattling the easiest way I no to to fix the rattling is this. Find some large diameter worm gear hose clamps two or three depending on the size. Then screw one clamp on to the other until you have a clamp that will be long enough to go around both converter and heat shield. Now simply wrap the clamp around the heat shield and converter, connect the clamp ends tighten clamp to hold the shield tight to the converter. DON'T over tighten the clamp you want to maintain the air gap between the shield and the converter. These are the shields that are welded on to the converter not the under body tunnel heat shields. ;)
 
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