Update on turning the rotors off the car---
Some may ask why didn't I buy new rotors instead of turning these? They only needed to have a very shallow cut to clean them up. At $12.00 ea to turn them it was not economical to replace them as there is substantial amount of meat left before wear limit. If you were to buy new rotors, you would still have the hub squareness issue, unless you turned them on the car.
- Had brake specialty place turn the front rotors off the car.
- Installed on of them on the car, torqued uniformely to 20 ft/lb, indexed the rotor to the hub with paint stick
- Set up my dial indicator about an inch from the outside dia of the roto.
- Turned the rotor an hub through 360 deg, found lateral runout low spot of 0.035". Marked this point on the rotor.
- Turned rotor one stud from base index, repeated the procedure, found same amount of runout at same mark on the rotor.
- Repeated 3 more times, same results. Hub face is not perfectly perpendicular to the axis.
- Raybestos sells a Ford Disc Brake rotor shim kit, BA-903-03. I purchased a pair. They are round shims which go between the rotor and hub. They are wider one side than the other by a few 1/10,000's" the items are about $18.00 ea.
- Installed the shim, reinstalled and torqued rotor to 20 ft/lb, ran it through again, is now within 0.015" lateral runnout. That's pretty doggone close!
- Test drove the car, brake pedal has absolutley no pulsing.
Based on the responses to various threads I have followed on this site I'm sure this post will draw a lot of criticism telling me how stupid I am for doing it this way, but this is my two-cents worth for anyone that is interested.
The match mounting was only done on the front hubs and rotors.Is that what the yellow paint dot is on one of my wheel stud tips on each hub?
At $12 per for turning and $18 per for shims, that's $30 per, or the cost of a good OEM grade rotor....Update on turning the rotors off the car---
Some may ask why didn't I buy new rotors instead of turning these? They only needed to have a very shallow cut to clean them up. At $12.00 ea to turn them it was not economical to replace them as there is substantial amount of meat left before wear limit. If you were to buy new rotors, you would still have the hub squareness issue, unless you turned them on the car.
- Had brake specialty place turn the front rotors off the car.
- Installed on of them on the car, torqued uniformely to 20 ft/lb, indexed the rotor to the hub with paint stick
- Set up my dial indicator about an inch from the outside dia of the roto.
- Turned the rotor an hub through 360 deg, found lateral runout low spot of 0.035". Marked this point on the rotor.
- Turned rotor one stud from base index, repeated the procedure, found same amount of runout at same mark on the rotor.
- Repeated 3 more times, same results. Hub face is not perfectly perpendicular to the axis.
- Raybestos sells a Ford Disc Brake rotor shim kit, BA-903-03. I purchased a pair. They are round shims which go between the rotor and hub. They are wider one side than the other by a few 1/10,000's" the items are about $18.00 ea.
- Installed the shim, reinstalled and torqued rotor to 20 ft/lb, ran it through again, is now within 0.015" lateral runnout. That's pretty doggone close!
- Test drove the car, brake pedal has absolutley no pulsing.
Based on the responses to various threads I have followed on this site I'm sure this post will draw a lot of criticism telling me how stupid I am for doing it this way, but this is my two-cents worth for anyone that is interested.