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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,
I apologize if this was already covered but the search feature doesn't seem to be working very well. This is a bit tedious.
HELP
2003 Taurus
Turn signals don't work at all.The hazard lights, high-beams and wipers work. Fuse#36 is not blown.The car used to have no problem at all with the turn signal. I don't know what changed.
1) Installed a new Motorcraft flasher relay since the aftermarket one in there was too tall to close the fuse box lid. Drove it. Oddly, the turn signals worked for awhile then stopped.The bulbs had lit up so I didn't bother replacing them.
2) I replaced the Multi-Function Switch. Drove it. Turn signals worked for a day then went out entirely again. Fuse is not blown.
3) Replaced one very old front yellow bulb that was faulty and one very old crusty rear bulb that still worked.0Turn signals worked for a few minutes then fast-blinked, then nothing at all. Fuse is not blown.
4) I replaced fuse #36 15A which is for the reverse lights and turn signals. No luck. Fuse is not blown. Bulbs are fine. No reverse lights either.
5) I replaced fuse#36 with another fuse, 20A, no luck, and finally a third fuse 30A and then success! It works!
But why?
The MFS and Flasher were replaced. Probably unnecessarily.
Amps? It's unlikely the amp rating means anything. If it did, then the previous fuses would have blown.

Bulbs? Bulbs definitely caused problems, but the turn signals still failed after replacing the bulbs.

Fuses? The first two fuses were not blown, but they were 13 years old. The final fuse was new/never used. Those just happened to be all the fuses I had. Is it possible to have a bad fuse that is not blown?

Fuse sockets? Jiggled loose? I remembered the flasher relay sat in the fuse box very loosely. I fixed it by slightly twisted the relay leads so it fits tight in the socket. What if fuse#36 were loose in it's socket? Fuse#36 doesn't seem loose, but that may not mean anything. The 30A fuse seems thicker, or maybe we just got lucky and when I drive it, the turn signals will fail again.

Loose/short wiring? If the wiring were bad somewhere, then why would the turn signals start working without moving/vibrating the car? I did replace the front lenses and those have their own wiring which has to be pulled tight to twist close the blinker bulb socket. Perhaps one of those wires were pulled too much? But it works now and the fuses were never blown, so that rules out wiring.

Combination? I'd like to say it was a bulb issue at first combined with am intermittently loose or bad fuse the whole time which caused the problems, but that doesn't explain how the fuses failed when the car was not in motion, not being jiggled.

Since the bulbs have also been replaced the only remaining component is the fuse.Is it possible to have a bad fuse that is not blown?
"Due to the way fuses are engineered, the likelihood that a fuse would become faulty without blowing is pretty slim, but there are rare instances in which a fuse might appear completely fine, even though no current runs through it." But I would have had TWO rare cases. Unlikely.

"One thing you can do is check and clean the fuse box. Corrosion can build up on the connections and reduce the effectiveness of your cars electrical system." Now this seems to have some validity. Perhaps by the third fuse tried, enough corrosion wore off to allow a connection? But why would it have worked before? corrosion doesn't happen that fast.

Anyone?
 
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