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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,
I apologize if this was already covered but the search feature doesn't seem to be working very well. This is a bit tedious.
HELP
2003 Taurus
Turn signals don't work at all.The hazard lights, high-beams and wipers work. Fuse#36 is not blown.The car used to have no problem at all with the turn signal. I don't know what changed.
1) Installed a new Motorcraft flasher relay since the aftermarket one in there was too tall to close the fuse box lid. Drove it. Oddly, the turn signals worked for awhile then stopped.The bulbs had lit up so I didn't bother replacing them.
2) I replaced the Multi-Function Switch. Drove it. Turn signals worked for a day then went out entirely again. Fuse is not blown.
3) Replaced one very old front yellow bulb that was faulty and one very old crusty rear bulb that still worked.0Turn signals worked for a few minutes then fast-blinked, then nothing at all. Fuse is not blown.
4) I replaced fuse #36 15A which is for the reverse lights and turn signals. No luck. Fuse is not blown. Bulbs are fine. No reverse lights either.
5) I replaced fuse#36 with another fuse, 20A, no luck, and finally a third fuse 30A and then success! It works!
But why?
The MFS and Flasher were replaced. Probably unnecessarily.
Amps? It's unlikely the amp rating means anything. If it did, then the previous fuses would have blown.

Bulbs? Bulbs definitely caused problems, but the turn signals still failed after replacing the bulbs.

Fuses? The first two fuses were not blown, but they were 13 years old. The final fuse was new/never used. Those just happened to be all the fuses I had. Is it possible to have a bad fuse that is not blown?

Fuse sockets? Jiggled loose? I remembered the flasher relay sat in the fuse box very loosely. I fixed it by slightly twisted the relay leads so it fits tight in the socket. What if fuse#36 were loose in it's socket? Fuse#36 doesn't seem loose, but that may not mean anything. The 30A fuse seems thicker, or maybe we just got lucky and when I drive it, the turn signals will fail again.

Loose/short wiring? If the wiring were bad somewhere, then why would the turn signals start working without moving/vibrating the car? I did replace the front lenses and those have their own wiring which has to be pulled tight to twist close the blinker bulb socket. Perhaps one of those wires were pulled too much? But it works now and the fuses were never blown, so that rules out wiring.

Combination? I'd like to say it was a bulb issue at first combined with am intermittently loose or bad fuse the whole time which caused the problems, but that doesn't explain how the fuses failed when the car was not in motion, not being jiggled.

Since the bulbs have also been replaced the only remaining component is the fuse.Is it possible to have a bad fuse that is not blown?
"Due to the way fuses are engineered, the likelihood that a fuse would become faulty without blowing is pretty slim, but there are rare instances in which a fuse might appear completely fine, even though no current runs through it." But I would have had TWO rare cases. Unlikely.

"One thing you can do is check and clean the fuse box. Corrosion can build up on the connections and reduce the effectiveness of your cars electrical system." Now this seems to have some validity. Perhaps by the third fuse tried, enough corrosion wore off to allow a connection? But why would it have worked before? corrosion doesn't happen that fast.

Anyone?
 

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Did you ever get this fixed? I have a 2003 focus station wagon and when car interior gets warm from sun or really warm weather the turn signals, intermittent wipers, rear wiper and door auto lock when you start driving don't work. If I can get interior cool enough with AC things start working again. Or if car just cools off on it's own or like the next morning everything works. And these all functions work in cooler months like September through April. Wipers have relays but turn signals don't or actually I think it's on the GEM. And I swapped out the warm GEM for a cool one and it didn't seem to make a change. So I'm looking for some other component to try changing or hitting with some cold spray to see if it's the culprit and wondered what if anything you'd found that might be the issue.
 

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Any C series or B series codes?
 

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Where would I see them? Like with an OBD reader? I have a corded code read and bought one that's bluetooth that has some extra features, but haven't ever gotten in to using it much.
 

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Today I got my intermittent wipers, turn signals and auto door look to work when they initially were not working due to a warm day and car interior. I sprayed an electronics duster held upside down to chill the fuse block where the wiper relays are and suddenly all three of those functions started working and kept working for about a 15 minute drive after lunch. I'm going to check them again after the cars been sitting in the sun for the afternoon. I'm hoping the sudden chill fixed or cleaned the issue and they will still work. And if not I'll hit them again with the spray and see if there's something still going on.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Did you ever get this fixed? I have a 2003 focus station wagon and when car interior gets warm from sun or really warm weather the turn signals, intermittent wipers, rear wiper and door auto lock when you start driving don't work. If I can get interior cool enough with AC things start working again. Or if car just cools off on it's own or like the next morning everything works. And these all functions work in cooler months like September through April. Wipers have relays but turn signals don't or actually I think it's on the GEM. And I swapped out the warm GEM for a cool one and it didn't seem to make a change. So I'm looking for some other component to try changing or hitting with some cold spray to see if it's the culprit and wondered what if anything you'd found that might be the issue.
I apologize for the long delay in replying. I tried everything. Flashers, fuses, bulbs, three different turn signal arms/MFCs, no matter what I tried or in what combination, the turn signals would work for about 15 miles and then stop working. Sometimes 5 miles or less.
Odd that yours seems to be temperature sensitive.
Here's a wild guess: When I first got this car, the transmission would not shift higher than second gear and a few other odd problems all seemingly unrelated. It turned out that the wires to the front top oxygen sensor (on the exhaust) had melted together and shorted. I peeled them apart and insulated them and every problem went away. The trans works perfectly now. Weird. I'm sure there is a reasonable explanation, but still.
Anyway, I'd look for a common ground and maybe something to do with cold contracting/heat expanding the material.

I've owned more than 30 American cars in my life and have never seen problems like I have in this Taurus. This even exceeds my Jeep problems and that's saying something!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Today I got my intermittent wipers, turn signals and auto door look to work when they initially were not working due to a warm day and car interior. I sprayed an electronics duster held upside down to chill the fuse block where the wiper relays are and suddenly all three of those functions started working and kept working for about a 15 minute drive after lunch. I'm going to check them again after the cars been sitting in the sun for the afternoon. I'm hoping the sudden chill fixed or cleaned the issue and they will still work. And if not I'll hit them again with the spray and see if there's something still going on.
This is very interesting. How did it turn out?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
This might help:
I found this comparison between a thermal flasher and an electronic flasher.

"A thermal flasher has a bi-metal strip in it that heats and cools. The rate at which it does this is dependent on the make-up of the strip, itself and the amount of resistance in the lamp circuits. This results in the "flashing". Ever notice someone pulling a trailer, that the turn signals flashed very fast? That is because the normal flasher on the vehicle was not rated for the additional load of the trailer lighting. More resistance=more rapid heating of the flasher=faster flashing. That is why they sell heavy duty flashers for towing.

An electronic flasher is not dependent on a bi-metal strip and will perform the same no matter what the load (at least that is the way I understand it
)."
 
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