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Ok on my way back from picking up my car i noticed that my windshield was yucky so i went to clean it and nothing not even the sound of the fluid motor wtf so i kept hittin the button and finally i heard a click noise and yay its clean but everytime i need to press it 2 or 3 times and then it works and my wipers dont like to go down all the way is this the cause because i dont want to pay alot of money for a windshield wiper motor
 

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If they are not parking it could be your wiper module under the dash.
 

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Yup. Sounds like the multi function switch. I've replaced 2 in 2 different gen2's. Tried cleaning, didn't help. They weren't too expensive at the dealer (can't remember price - it's been about 3 yrs ago). Not too bad to put in. The Chiltons manual explains it pretty well.
 

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Actually, the multi function switch is quite easy to put in, and i'll tell ya how. First, put your key in the ignition and turn it to run (not start). Then use a small screwdriver or punch and slide it up into the hole in the bottom of the steering column shroud just underneath the key (make sure you're stickin it in the right hole, not the hole with the screw in it :p ) You may have to wiggle it around a bit, but there is a small pin in there that retains the lock cylinder - when you push it you can pull the ignition cylinder out. Next, remove the 3 screws (philips head) from the bottom steering shroud and remove the shroud (if you have tilt steering, you'll also have to remove the tilt lever - it just unscrews, but is often pretty tight - you may need to use pliers, so be careful not to chew it up). The upper shroud will come off next - nothing but the screws thru the bottom shroud hold it on. Now you'll be able to see the multi-function switch. There are 2 screws going into it from the left side, one at the top, and one at the bottom. They are torx heads, i think a T-20. Take them both out. Now, just undo the two electrical connectors (they are a bit tricky - i usually use to small screwdrivers to carefully pry the tabs back on both sides which will allow the connectors to pop off - be careful not to break the tabs off) and voila, it's off. Reverse the procedure to put the new one in. It usually only takes me about 15 mins to change one, altho i've done many, since it's a pretty common part to fail. Hope this helps, and good luck!
 

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If I were going to replace it my self I would first remove it and clean it thoroughly. Use a can of WD 40 and spray everything while working it through its monitions. Use half the can or so.
 

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Originally posted by Nidan@Oct 14 2004, 10:37 PM
Actually, the multi function switch is quite easy to put in, and i'll tell ya how. First, put your key in the ignition and turn it to run (not start). Then use a small screwdriver or punch and slide it up into the hole in the bottom of the steering column shroud just underneath the key (make sure you're stickin it in the right hole, not the hole with the screw in it :p ) You may have to wiggle it around a bit, but there is a small pin in there that retains the lock cylinder - when you push it you can pull the ignition cylinder out. Next, remove the 3 screws (philips head) from the bottom steering shroud and remove the shroud (if you have tilt steering, you'll also have to remove the tilt lever - it just unscrews, but is often pretty tight - you may need to use pliers, so be careful not to chew it up). The upper shroud will come off next - nothing but the screws thru the bottom shroud hold it on. Now you'll be able to see the multi-function switch. There are 2 screws going into it from the left side, one at the top, and one at the bottom. They are torx heads, i think a T-20. Take them both out. Now, just undo the two electrical connectors (they are a bit tricky - i usually use to small screwdrivers to carefully pry the tabs back on both sides which will allow the connectors to pop off - be careful not to break the tabs off) and voila, it's off. Reverse the procedure to put the new one in. It usually only takes me about 15 mins to change one, altho i've done many, since it's a pretty common part to fail. Hope this helps, and good luck!
ALWAYS disconnect the battery before removing the ignition lock cylinder.

Mark
95 SHO
 

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Nidan, Nice job explaining the removal of the multi function switch !!!!!!!!!!!!!
Definately disconnect the battery! A very good point Marcus!
 

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Originally posted by Nidan@Oct 14 2004, 10:37 PM
...(if you have tilt steering, you'll also have to remove the tilt lever - it just unscrews, but is often pretty tight - you may need to use pliers, so be careful not to chew it up)...
Mine was very tight. I had to use a Vise-grip to grip it firmly enough, but I still chewed it up a little. Also I found it too difficult to get the ignition lock cylinder out, so I removed just the upper shroud. Removeing only the upper shroud still allowed ample access to remove the MFS. I had to disassemble the switch to repair a broken wire inside. A set of small torx tools are required (as I recall). If you do go inside the switch, make a special mental note of how to reassemble it and test it for all of its functions before you reinstall it in the vehicle (I had to disassemble the switch again because I put the dimmer tab in the wrong place when I reassembled it the first time).

Also look at this other post regarding cleaning the contacts under the end cap:Click Here
 

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[Nidan, Nice job explaining the removal of the multi function switch !!!!!!!!!!!!!
Definately disconnect the battery! A very good point Marcus! ]

Thanks. Just a note - it doesn't matter if you disconnect the battery. The service manual says to do that for practically every repair we make, but honestly, we never do, unless we're working on air bags, or some other system or doing wiring repairs where there is the potential for damage. Doing the switch, all the wiring terminals are enclosed in the connector hardshell, so there's no chance of shorting anything out unless you're dumb enough to stick something metal into the live wire and then ground it. And removing the ignition lock cylinder will also not cause any problems whether the battery is hooked up or not. The lock cylinder itself has no electric ciricuits that could short anything out - the little tab on the end of it when you pull it out mates into a slot in the ignition switch, and moves the mechanism inside that when you turn the key. The switch is where all the wiring is. That little plactic tab with the metal prong on it that's on the side of the ignition lock cylinder is just the key-in-ignition sensing switch. All it does is touch the metal tab against the housing in the steering column when the key is in, completing the ground side of the circuit, and turning on your warning bell (a couple modules use that input as well to know the key is there). So really, no worries about the battery for this repair.

A note on cleaning - sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Pop the end cap off the switch, clean the grease out of the contacts in there well (using a spray cleaner helps, but make sure it doesn't destroy plastic - some do) and apply a LIGHT coating of dielectric silicone to the contacts. You may get lucky and revive it for a while.
 

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When removing the lock cylinder you have to turn the key to the run position. No sense leaving the PCM and other engine circuits hot while you are working on the switch.
 

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[When removing the lock cylinder you have to turn the key to the run position. No sense leaving the PCM and other engine circuits hot while you are working on the switch. ]

True, they're hot, but it won't cause any problems, unless you take too long and drain the battery. To each their own. I prefer to leave the battery hooked up whenever possible so i don't have to reset the clock and radio stations.
 
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