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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My '04 Vulcan just developed a new problem yesterday: When I move my turn signal to the left or right, it no longer returns to center position on its own after turning the wheel.

So... how bad is it going to be to fix this, and do you have any info on actually doing it?
 

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The Multi Function Switch (MFS, aka, turn signal stalk) is broken. Not too hard to replace.
 

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What dan said, it's just 2 screws and it's out.

The copper alignment plate is probably bent somewhere. On the upside, something may just be out of alignment and you could open it up and re-align it without any cash coming out of your pocket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Seriously it's that simple that it's all incorporated into the switch? I know there are some other vehicles where steering wheel has to come off to replace a broken spring or plastic clip.

If it's really that easy, what's the best place to get a new switch?

Izzmo: Is that alignment plate part of the switch itself?
 

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Yes, it's 2 bolts to get the MFS out and then ... 5 if I remember right, to seperate the top and bottom (or I guess front and back).

When you open it up, you can make sure the runner is moving over the top of the copper dimple plate correctly. If it is not, new ones are around 30-50 dollars depending on where u go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes, it's 2 bolts to get the MFS out and then ... 5 if I remember right, to seperate the top and bottom (or I guess front and back).

When you open it up, you can make sure the runner is moving over the top of the copper dimple plate correctly. If it is not, new ones are around 30-50 dollars depending on where u go.
That's freakin' fantastic! Thank you!
 

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Sounds like the actual actuator is what's bad. But you will see when the MFS is out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sounds like the actual actuator is what's bad. But you will see when the MFS is out.
Is this also part of the switch?

Just to add, the switch was returning to center on its own just fine, and then suddenly it no longer did. So it seems like something got unhooked or simply broke spontaneously.

Also... How hard is it to get access to the two screws holding in the switch? I assume part of the steering column cover has to come off? If so, is this obvious and/or is there a writeup here or perhaps in the Haynes book?
 

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The top part just pops off. There are two tabs on each side. It is easier to lower the steering column all the way to the ground.

The bottom part does not need to come off, you can just push it down to get access to the bottom screw.

The actuator has two springs in it to help it get back to center, they might have came loose as there are a lot of gaps it could wiggle around in. The best way to fix it, if possible, is to just take it off and have a look at it. It's pretty self explanatory to figure out what goes where.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The top part just pops off. There are two tabs on each side. It is easier to lower the steering column all the way to the ground.

The bottom part does not need to come off, you can just push it down to get access to the bottom screw.

The actuator has two springs in it to help it get back to center, they might have came loose as there are a lot of gaps it could wiggle around in. The best way to fix it, if possible, is to just take it off and have a look at it. It's pretty self explanatory to figure out what goes where.
The Gen 3's must be radically different from the Gen 4's. I looked at it last night and it's nowhere near as easy as that. 3 screws to get the column cover apart (not two tabs) and I still can't get to either of the MFS screws. It appears as though the key cyclinder is going to have to come out to get access to the switch screws (and that's what Haynes says too--at least they have a write-up for this!).
 

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Actually on the Gen 3s you should remove the three screws on the bottom then take out the key cylinder too. Just it's not really necessary if you bend the plastic enough to get in there.

Key cylinder comes out easy enough.
 

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Yeah, sorry I forgot about the 3 screws on the bottom, slipped my mind, but there are 2 tabs on the sides. But you should not have to mess with the bottom piece, just move it down and away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'll just take out the cylinder. The tilt wheel adjuster is really impeding the bending and I don't want to break anything else. :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Okay, so the tilt wheel adjustment bar just unscrews and I got the MFS out tonight.

I can't get it apart. There are four tabs on this revision and what looks like two sort-of-rivets near the wiper rod. Attached is a picture with the four tabs in red, and the rivets in blue.

The other photo is a lousy cell pic of the MFS on the side closest to the steering wheel. The white tab in the center feels loose, and it looks like there may be a missing spring (there's only the spring above the white tab in the photo but it looks like there should be another below?).

I can get better photos if needed but basically I'm stuck on taking this apart and that's where I need help. If it's possible to pop those rivets apart then I just don't know how. Thanks!
 

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Is the spring still intact?

On mine the spring across the bottom of the switch broke and wouldn't let the switch recenter. It's a mickey mouse setup. A 2 cent spring requires you to replace the whole switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
If I'm correct and there should be a second spring, then I have no idea where that spring is. It may be inside the switch, which I still can't get apart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
So, looks like I need to get a new switch here if I can't get the old one apart.

The OE switch is $107 from Ford. Rock Auto has an aftermarket switch for less than half, at 50 bucks. Is the aftermarket one acceptable, and is Rock a good place to get it?

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Meh, nevermind. I ordered OE Motocraft part SM6523 from Amazon. Under $55 shipped, assuming it is actually the correct part as they seem to think. Thanks all for your help.
 

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What was wrong with it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
One final update... It looks like it was actually one spring, and on my old switch it had either come unhooked or was broken. I put in the new OEM switch from Amazon for $55 and this is fixed. Thanks, all, for your help!
 

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