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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an 02 vulcan and have had the CEL on with a cat problem on bank 1.
he esitmates to repair have been over a grand and with close to 190,000 on the car I'm not interested in fixing it. I had the codes cleared and it lasted for two days until I hit highway speeds it triggered the cel.

Any ideas what to try to get it too pass for another two years?
I have also seen the inspection guy click traction control as an option which he says raises the numbers to get it to pass.

thanks
bryan
 

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You can source cheaper parts by using a gen 3 exhaust manifold and cat. would cut the cost WAY down.

I can get you the manifold so you can use the g3 cat. :thumb:

Otherwise, I dunno
 

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Cake monster
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I have an 02 vulcan and have had the CEL on with a cat problem on bank 1.
he esitmates to repair have been over a grand and with close to 190,000 on the car I'm not interested in fixing it. I had the codes cleared and it lasted for two days until I hit highway speeds it triggered the cel.

Any ideas what to try to get it too pass for another two years?
I have also seen the inspection guy click traction control as an option which he says raises the numbers to get it to pass.

thanks
bryan
I'm slightly confused by your post. Do you mean the one of the cats is bad and they want a grand to fix it? Isn't it possible to weld in a universal unit? They're quite cheap.

edit: Do you live in the US or Canada?
 

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I'm slightly confused by your post. Do you mean the one of the cats is bad and they want a grand to fix it? Isn't it possible to weld in a universal unit? They're quite cheap.

edit: Do you live in the US or Canada?
Gen 4 duratec bank 1 cats are made as a part of the exhaust manifold. You can't use a universal. I believe you can with the 3rd gen stuff.
He's in the US
 

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Cake monster
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Gen 4 duratec bank 1 cats are made as a part of the exhaust manifold. You can't use a universal. I believe you can with the 3rd gen stuff.
He's in the US
That explains it. :D

I was just curious, because if he lived in Ontario, there's exemptions if your car will cost more than $450 to repair. Maybe they have something similar where he is?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
lmao jw. i'm in ri they don't care. lol

yes michael universal is not an option, used can not be used, from what i'm told because they can not be checked prior to purchase.
 

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Is this a sniff or a light test? If its for the light, someone in the past successfully used 2 non-foulers on the tip of the o2 sensor to keep it (light) off. Iirc, they drilled (enlarged) the hole in the bottom of the first non-fouler so the o2 sensor tip could protrude and then threaded on the second non-fouler to the first. Worked by keeping o2 sensor tip much less exposed to exhaust gas. If interested, you might do a search on here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Do they put it on a dyno and put a sniffer up the tailpipe?
no michael.
i just had my f150 tested. they plug a scanner tool in while it's running.
they don't rev it or put on the rollers. the nissan OBD1 they put the sniffer
and reved the engine. the guy told me he rev;d it because it was failing, he also inputed that the car had traction control.
I talked to some guys and I guess before you could clear the codes and then test. Now the computer needs to show three driving cycles with the light off.
 

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no michael.
i just had my f150 tested. they plug a scanner tool in while it's running.
they don't rev it or put on the rollers. the nissan OBD1 they put the sniffer
and reved the engine. the guy told me he rev;d it because it was failing, he also inputed that the car had traction control.
I talked to some guys and I guess before you could clear the codes and then test. Now the computer needs to show three driving cycles with the light off.
When you reset the codes, it actually sets a code showing diags not complete, it does take a few cycles to clear it (it does not toss the light).

I believe that you could fool that method using the spark plug non-fouler on the upstream oxygen sensor.

It tricks the upstream o2 into thinking the car is running slightly rich and then the rear 02 sees the normal reading and thinks it's doing better.

$10 worth of crap from Vatozone and a 1/2" drill bit.
 

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Risoworker, use the dual spark plug non-fouler set-up on the downstream (post-cat) o2 sensor. Iirc, you can buy a 2-pack (18mm?) in the Dorman Help! section at most auto parts stores for about $5. A good 1/2 in. drill bit, vise, vise-grips or drill press and youre set. Google: spark plug non-fouler on oxygen sensor (for more info). Good luck.
 

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Risoworker, use the dual spark plug non-fouler set-up on the downstream (post-cat) o2 sensor. Iirc, you can buy a 2-pack (18mm?) in the Dorman Help! section at most auto parts stores for about $5. A good 1/2 in. drill bit, vise, vise-grips or drill press and youre set. Google: spark plug non-fouler on oxygen sensor (for more info). Good luck.
You would have to use it on the upstream.

If you use it downstream, it would detect less oxygen and think the cat is doing worse.
 

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Yeah, except it makes you car run like crap. It leans out until it burns the valves and scorches stuff, not worth it.

Stop listening to the other people who so far have just given out bad advise with no real solutions.

This is something you can do yourself and save some money. What you need is first, the replacement cat. This is not something you want to cut corners on, but you don't want to pay dealer prices either. Get the cheap junk parts and you'll have to replace it within a year. This is the one you need. (I'm assuming you need bank#1, you didn't specify, for that mater you didn't specify that you had a Duratec either, so maybe you need to clear up some details.)

Assuming a Duratec and bank#1, this is the unit you need.
Item Details
if it is bank#2 on the same setup, you will need this one
Item Details

If you have a Vulcan, both cats are part of the same assembly and are replaced together regardless of the code, you would need this part
Item Details

Everything that has been stated about the non-foulers is bogus at best. If you present false data to the computer, you do not help it run better, this is akin to the "20 hp chips" sold on eBay and the like. They give the computer false information under the guise that it will make your car better, in reality, all it does is nothing, with the chance of making it run worse.

At this point, I think you have only 2 real options, fix the car and move on, or sell it by whatever means and get another car. If you mess around with temporary fixes, not only will it not fix it, but it could make selling it that much harder if you decide its not work fixing. The non-fouler method will accomplish roughly the same result as unplugging a vacuum line and making it run leaner.
 

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Our objective here is to find a way (maybe temporarily) to get his car to pass the emissions test to keep it on the road for a few more years without costing him a fortune.

I don't believe Bryan has the tools or the time necessary to do something like swapping the cats in his driveway himself. I could be wrong, but I know he is busy.

He already has enough car payments. And unplugging a vacuum line would do exactly the reverse of what he's trying to accomplish.
 

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Yeah, except it makes you car run like crap. It leans out until it burns the valves and scorches stuff, not worth it.
This is not true.

The vulcan engine does not use the downstream O2 sensor for anything besides checking cat function.

You would have to use it on the upstream.

If you use it downstream, it would detect less oxygen and think the cat is doing worse.
You would use it downstream.
Cats are basically afterburners, and less oxygen post cat is thus expected and this exactly what the system is looking for. Therefore non foulers POST cat work, since they re-introduce/simulate the oxygen depletion effect of a working cat.

Installing them upstream is a 100% no go. This oxygen sensor is used for A/F mixture adjustment by the engine management.

I have gutted a cat and used the non fouler trick to avoid the CEL from coming on. (yes on the downstream sensor). Car still runs perfect (30k miles ago).

edit: however keep in mind that cats usually don't go bad by them selves, there is probably an underlying engine problem that cause the cat failure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yes Michael you are correct about the tools and time.
I've been driving it like this for about four years now. I'm just looking for a cheap fix because at this point she's on borrowed time. The engine is the Vulcan, I always get them mixed up, not 24v. The code is for bank 1.
 

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I'm afraid to put lacquer thinner in my car.
No ****, bomb on wheels! Not to mention spilling a DROP on the paint! How about one of those catalytic converter cleaner, supposedly helps you to pass emissions fuel additives? Maybe worth a try for 10 or 15 bucks.
 
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