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When I hit the remote trunk release on my 2001 Taurus the trunk does not pop open as it is supposed to.
Is this the latch itself.. a fuse.. will this be an expensive repair? :eek: :eek:
 

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QUOTE (nightingale @ May 14 2009, 08:11 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=725046
...
Is this the latch itself.. a fuse.. will this be an expensive repair? :eek: :eek:[/b]
Hard to say at Internet distance.

First check to see whatever fuse applies. Try replacing it (not all bad fuses will reveal themselves visually).

If you have a dash trunk button, does it work?
If so, the problem could be at the fob -- if you have a 2nd fob, does it work? If so, try replacing the first fob's battery

Can you hear any sound at all?
If yes, the problem could be friction. Try lubing the latch and the u-shaped strike pin.
Could be the torsion bars that raise the lid. Try moving one or both to a higher slot.

No sound?
See if the plug has come undone.
Unplug and check with a volt meter to see if if there is a pulse of power when you operate the fob.

If no sound when the fob's pressed, and the dash button doesn't work, and there's a pulse of power at the connector, then it's probably the solenoid.

If no sound, no worky dash button, no pulse of power, and fuse is good, this could be the wiring. The first place to check is where the wire flexes when the trunk opens... flexing wire over a long time = broken wire.

If no sound and the dash button works, it could be whatever module it is that controls the remote entry.

Electrical problems are such fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
QUOTE (OldWagon @ May 14 2009, 10:22 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=725061
QUOTE (nightingale @ May 14 2009, 08:11 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=725046
...
Is this the latch itself.. a fuse.. will this be an expensive repair? :eek: :eek:[/b]
Hard to say at Internet distance.

First check to see whatever fuse applies. Try replacing it (not all bad fuses will reveal themselves visually).

If you have a dash trunk button, does it work?
If so, the problem could be at the fob -- if you have a 2nd fob, does it work? If so, try replacing the first fob's battery

Can you hear any sound at all?
If yes, the problem could be friction. Try lubing the latch and the u-shaped strike pin.
Could be the torsion bars that raise the lid. Try moving one or both to a higher slot.

No sound?
See if the plug has come undone.
Unplug and check with a volt meter to see if if there is a pulse of power when you operate the fob.

If no sound when the fob's pressed, and the dash button doesn't work, and there's a pulse of power at the connector, then it's probably the solenoid.

If no sound, no worky dash button, no pulse of power, and fuse is good, this could be the wiring. The first place to check is where the wire flexes when the trunk opens... flexing wire over a long time = broken wire.

If no sound and the dash button works, it could be whatever module it is that controls the remote entry.

Electrical problems are such fun.
[/b][/quote]


No. Dash remote button does not work. No sound. Nothing. Fortunately the key in lock still works... but it is a pain when dropping off the kids and their sports equip, groceries and the like.
 

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Check and make sure the latch is plugged in.
 

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QUOTE (thesavo @ May 14 2009, 07:42 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=725069
check that the button
  • is plugged in
  • Passes a continuity test(Get a MultiMeter, check see if it passes 0 Resistance, when presses)
[/b]
The remote doesnt work either. The remote will function without the dash switch.
 

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I deleted my last post because I noticed I repeated old wagon.

Reading my 2003 Electrical Diagrams. Results May vary.

With Keyless Entry
But also check the switch lead. One side is connected to ground. That lead should show ≈0 Resistance. The other is connected to the GEM.
The Gem in turn(also with Fob and Keypad(if present) grounds a yellow/litegreen wire (pin 26 in mine) connected to the trunk release relay.
With takes power from int fuse box Fuse 22(20 amp). This applies power to the solenoid Signal. Orange/Lite Green wire.

QUOTE
The remote doesn't work either. The remote will function without the dash switch.[/b]
<strike>With out Keyless
Switch jumps 12Volts(Fuse 22under dash (20 Amp)) through The solenoid mounted on the trunk lid</strike>
 

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Put a volt meter on the wires to the latching mechanism.

Mike
B)
 

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I had the same problem, like eveyone said test remote with door lock unlock. My problem was the wiring harness that runs besides the truck arm back to the car. There is a section that always moves up and down when the truck is opened and closed. On mine the wires just cracked and broke. ONe could not see it becouse the insulation was ok, but inside the wires were broken. Try to wiggle the harness while you lay inside the trunk area moving the trunk itself up and down, while somelse hits the trunk remote. .
 
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