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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Has it always don this? I didn't reread your previous posts but maybe a slightly weak fuel pump. Maybe a engine temperature is increasing mixture richness on cold start but not warm start. They should sell an adapter to install a mechanical fuel pump where the fuel line enters the pressure sensor.
Yeah, ever since I've had it. The fuel pressure seems ok on the scan tool, and just changed the filter with no difference. I can check pressure hot and cold with my gauge one of these days. I wonder why it would fail hot and not cold though, im used to weak ones on these cars causing cold start issues. But maybe the fact it's returnless changes something.
 

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Both my 2001s would fail to start hot and waiting 1/2 hour it would start. Low pressure was the failure on both. One would take three or four cycles to build pressure. I know it was a different system for pressure but engine would see the same conditions. Try the key cycling trick to see if it helps on hot restart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Both my 2001s would fail to start hot and waiting 1/2 hour it would start. Low pressure was the failure on both. One would take three or four cycles to build pressure. I know it was a different system for pressure but engine would see the same conditions. Try the key cycling trick to see if it helps on hot restart.
I wonder if its related to the fuel gauge issue, where the fuel level rises as you drive or with heat. Maybe the pump is getting hot....Hopefully it lasts until spring lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
So I had a Marti Report pulled on this car, and it's actually fairly rare. There were 14,435 tropic green 2000's produced, and of that this is one of only 1,082 with midnight black cloth interior. On top of that, of all 2000 Taurii , there were only 5,673 built with the cell phone interface system. So this is one of two low number pools, making it likely very unique in the grand scheme of things. The phone option was dropped after 2000 for these cars, so that's all that were built period. It's also got internal designation as being an SES. Although I believe pretty much all 2000's had "SE" on the back just due to some error, much like how the car had two left side FFV emblems instead of a proper matched pair. This was apparently a fleet order and purchased out of Palo Alto, California. Not a rental spec, so this was likely a company car for some middle management person of a tech company back in the day. Pretty neat.

Nerdy stuff, and not as rare as say a Rosemist SHO, but this is probably one of the few oddball option combos that existed for the regular production cars.

I've been driving it for a few months now, definitely needs some suspension work to be 100%. The front end is tight, but the struts are pretty worn out. Front right has a top bearing clunk and the ride control in general over bumps is pretty terrible. No SAS though, which leads me to believe the rears were replaced at some point. This summer I'll throw a full rebuild at the front end, since I already have a lot of parts in stock.
 

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So I had a Marti Report pulled on this car, and it's actually fairly rare. There were 14,435 tropic green 2000's produced, and of that this is one of only 1,082 with midnight black cloth interior. On top of that, of all 2000 Taurii , there were only 5,673 built with the cell phone interface system. So this is one of two low number pools, making it likely very unique in the grand scheme of things. The phone option was dropped after 2000 for these cars, so that's all that were built period. It's also got internal designation as being an SES. Although I believe pretty much all 2000's had "SE" on the back just due to some error, much like how the car had two left side FFV emblems instead of a proper matched pair. This was apparently a fleet order and purchased out of Palo Alto, California. Not a rental spec, so this was likely a company car for some middle management person of a tech company back in the day. Pretty neat.

Nerdy stuff, and not as rare as say a Rosemist SHO, but this is probably one of the few oddball option combos that existed for the regular production cars.

I've been driving it for a few months now, definitely needs some suspension work to be 100%. The front end is tight, but the struts are pretty worn out. Front right has a top bearing clunk and the ride control in general over bumps is pretty terrible. No SAS though, which leads me to believe the rears were replaced at some point. This summer I'll throw a full rebuild at the front end, since I already have a lot of parts in stock.
Fwiw, KYB has rebates through the end of the month. Rockauto informed me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Fwiw, KYB has rebates through the end of the month. Rockauto informed me.
So hilariously, Rockauto has delisted the front left KYB quickstrut for the Taurus. Therefore you can't buy a matched pair and take advantage of the rebate.....not sure if it's a glitch or they just ran out?

I did end up ordering a new OE IAC since mine started acting up on cold starts. I believe there's an aftermarket one on there currently so no big surprise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Took my 22 year old ride to the dealership to get a spare key cut and programmed. That was fun. Took forever, but the price wasn't too bad. They also accidentally changed my oil during the process somehow. Given I didn't pay for it, can't complain too much. I'm sure it attracted a bit of attention because nobody is doing stuff like that anymore, lol. Apparently 2000 is about as far back as you can go and still have the modern Ford IDS work with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 · (Edited)
My new complete fuel pump assembly arrived today. Carquest/Airtex for $41 on Rock auto close out. Hard to beat that. Gonna be a little bit before I install it, but it should fix the gas gauge issue. I also need to check the connector from the body harness to the fuel pump for corrosion, since the problem exists on the sender circuit somewhere behind the flex fuel module.

A/C works great, and no overheating despite 80-90F ambient temps lately.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Finally got that done. What a job. I really should have emptied the tank before trying to put it back up, lol. Gas gauge is now working properly! Managed to avoid breaking any of the 22 year old clips, and even found the original build sheet up there. Pump was original. Surprising amount of junk in the sock from over the years even though the tank was pretty clean.
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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Occasional bizarre squeaking/angry rubbing sound when turning left at stop or low speeds has gotten more frequent. Not coming from the PS system as far as I can tell, seems suspension related. Am I right in suspecting the tie rod or ball joint? It doesn't always do it though which is the interesting part. I suppose it could also be strut related. Either way it's surprisingly loud. Never happens above low speeds, and the steering feels great otherwise. You can feel a little bit of vibration through the wheel when it does it though, but nothing extreme. Right turns never make noise in any circumstance.
 

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Occasional bizarre squeaking/angry rubbing sound when turning left at stop or low speeds has gotten more frequent. Not coming from the PS system as far as I can tell, seems suspension related. Am I right in suspecting the tie rod or ball joint? It doesn't always do it though which is the interesting part. I suppose it could also be strut related. Either way it's surprisingly loud. Never happens above low speeds, and the steering feels great otherwise. You can feel a little bit of vibration through the wheel when it does it though, but nothing extreme. Right turns never make noise in any circumstance.
I had a rubbing sound while turning and it was dry ball joints. Used a hypodermic needle fitting for a grease gun and injected into boot. If it solves the issue I am not sure of how long it helps. For me a few years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
RIP lol. Never seen this one before. #4 exhaust valve spring broke after hitting 4K RPM going up a hill. Luckily I knew when to quit and didn't try to drive it very far. First time I've ever broken down in one of these things. At least it's not my fault, lol.

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
So what is the damage summary? Pull the head, new valve and spring and see what happens?
Valve is bent, and it marked up the cylinder wall just a little bit, moreso in the quench space near where the head meets the block. None of it looks all that bad though. Rod seems fine, piston traveled down when motor was rotated. So the plan for now is to pull the front head, have the valve replaced and the machine shop go over everything. I'll replace the rest of the valve springs on the rear bank myself on reassembly and see how she does. Normally I would refresh the rear head at the same time, but given these are already reman with not that many miles on them, I don't see the point (other than the springs which are easy to do). I also don't have access to my normal work area at this time so I'll have to do this in the street, lol.
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