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Discussion Starter #1
I'm slowly getting along with my tranny swap. Disconnected the lower control arms today so the halfshafts are ready to by pulled out of the Tranny.

Here's the new(used) AX4N from the junkyard for $100. Pulled from a 95 Taurus that had been in a fender bender. Mileage is 88,000 Miles(143,000Km)


Pulled y-pipe. Cut the bolts at the flange and still couldn't get her off so I dropped the rest of the exhaust to the rear and pulled the pipe apart behind the flex pipe.


Homemade engine support with a 4 x 4 beam


Engine hooked up to support


Bottom view


One Question I have is if the oil pan can support the engine weight the way I have it or should I route the cables to the side of the oilpan? I am worried if I route it to the sides the force may be to much on the crankshaft area near the passenger side of engine. I am going to put wood under the silver cable under the oil pan as well like the other side.
 

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No, I would not trust cables and straps wrapped around the oil pan to support the weight of the engine and accessories. Worst case you will crush the oil pan, requiring replacement. Best case is that you will ruin the oil pan gasket by crushing it is spots which would require dropping the subframe again to replace the oil pan gaskets (after you finish reassembling the car, and test run to find the new oil leak/s you created).

The engine should be supported on the normal lift locations (engine mount bolts are good) with chains.
 

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all i ever do is pull a couple of upper intake bolts install a couple links of chain, wrap it around your support, and tighten the bolts, i have never had a problem, but from what i see your set-up should be ok, with the exception of that rusty ass oil pan collapsing, which really needs replacing anyway.
 

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I always heard you could pull the tranny without pulling the engine first, never seen it done though. Is it easier for you that way?

Now would be a good time to check/change that tranny filter and pan gasket, hell even the valve body gasket too since you've got easy access.

They say to stick a broomstick(?) or something similar in size into the passenger side inner CV hole of the trans to support the "side gears"

Would you mind taking a macro shot of your flex plate? Not quite sure why but mine had a circular crack all around the mounting holes, and before that the whole mounting section was torn out. :(
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah, the oil pan is quite rusty. So how about supporting it by the exhaust manifolds? I would use the engine lifting eye but it would be unbalanced I think.

I do have a new Trans filter I'm putting in and the broomstick or dowel in the cv hole only needs to be done on the 3 speed ATX not the 4 Speed according to the manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I always heard you could pull the tranny without pulling the engine first, never seen it done though. Is it easier for you that way?

Now would be a good time to check/change that tranny filter and pan gasket, hell even the valve body gasket too since you've got easy access.

They say to stick a broomstick(?) or something similar in size into the passenger side inner CV hole of the trans to support the "side gears"

Would you mind taking a macro shot of your flex plate? Not quite sure why but mine had a circular crack all around the mounting holes, and before that the whole mounting section was torn out. :(
[/b]
Sure I can take a pic, is the flex plate the part that the torque converter bolts to? I thought that was called the flywheel?
 

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Yes that's it, i'm not exactly sure why its called that, I think they make that distinction between autos and manuals.



<div class='quotemain'>
I always heard you could pull the tranny without pulling the engine first, never seen it done though. Is it easier for you that way?

Now would be a good time to check/change that tranny filter and pan gasket, hell even the valve body gasket too since you've got easy access.

They say to stick a broomstick(?) or something similar in size into the passenger side inner CV hole of the trans to support the "side gears"

Would you mind taking a macro shot of your flex plate? Not quite sure why but mine had a circular crack all around the mounting holes, and before that the whole mounting section was torn out. :(
[/b]
Sure I can take a pic, is the flex plate the part that the torque converter bolts to? I thought that was called the flywheel?
[/b][/quote]
 

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A flywheel is much heavier than a flexplate. A flywheel needs to have some weight to it but a flex plate doesn't because the weight of the torque converter makes up for it. I can't remember exactly why it needs that weight. I think it has something to do with keeping the crankshaft rotations smooth.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Would you mind taking a macro shot of your flex plate? Not quite sure why but mine had a circular crack all around the mounting holes, and before that the whole mounting section was torn out. :(
[/b]
Pic of flexplate :


I'll take another pic when the tranny is dropped of the complete flexplate.
 

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I think he meant it was cracked around the 6 mounting holes for the crankshaft. It is quite common for them to crack there, I have done many a SBC flexplate.
I can get a good pic of one from my 93 vulcan tomorrow if you'd like. I know for sure it's not cracked though.
 

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I think he meant it was cracked around the 6 mounting holes for the crankshaft. It is quite common for them to crack there, I have done many a SBC flexplate.
I can get a good pic of one from my 93 vulcan tomorrow if you'd like. I know for sure it's not cracked though.
[/b]

You're right, I was looking for something to compare to this, maybe to see if anyone was experiencing the beginnings of that circular crack.
 

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<div class='quotemain'>
I think he meant it was cracked around the 6 mounting holes for the crankshaft. It is quite common for them to crack there, I have done many a SBC flexplate.
I can get a good pic of one from my 93 vulcan tomorrow if you'd like. I know for sure it's not cracked though.
[/b]

You're right, I was looking for something to compare to this, maybe to see if anyone was experiencing the beginnings of that circular crack. [/b][/quote]

You're putting too much Hp through that flex plate. That sucker will shear off one day.
 

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<div class='quotemain'> <div class='quotemain'>
I think he meant it was cracked around the 6 mounting holes for the crankshaft. It is quite common for them to crack there, I have done many a SBC flexplate.
I can get a good pic of one from my 93 vulcan tomorrow if you'd like. I know for sure it's not cracked though.
[/b]

You're right, I was looking for something to compare to this, maybe to see if anyone was experiencing the beginnings of that circular crack. [/b][/quote]

You're putting too much Hp through that flex plate. That sucker will shear off one day.
[/b][/quote]


I did once already back in 04, I couldn't say for sure whether it was a balancing problem or just additional stress from the awful transmission I had at the time.

Assuming it is the weak point in putting torque-to-ground, how would one get around that? I've done some quick checking to windstar/mustang alternatives that may line right up, but nothing definite just yet.
 

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You could have one custom made. the starter ring welds can be ground off and you can have the flex plate itself machined. You'd need to check to see how much end play you have in the input shaft of the transmission though - if that flex plate is too thick you may need to make a spacer for in between the tranny and block.

A flex plate for the V6 Mustang would be my first guess as well as an off-the-shelf alternative.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Update : Slipping trans is out and new(used) trans is in.

Here's the revised engine support with a cable on the eyelets and a secondary support with a chain bolted to the engine(as per rudedogs suggestion-thanks rudedog).


Subfame's out!


New(used) AX4N ready to go in.


Found a use for the crappy trunk jack-lifting the trans up!


Going up and in!


Just have to bolt up starter, exhaust, and passenger right side halfshaft and suspension. Problem is the passenger side halfshaft won't go in all the way. Here's a pic of before I pulled it out of the old trans and now trying to put it in all the way into the new trans :

Before with about a half inch from trans to halfshaft body-bottom of pic:


Now with halfshaft inserted and over 1 inch from trans to halfshaft body :


From my measurements the circlip is going in the groove but it must go past the groove as shown by previous pic of the before shot and I looked at other cars and they are also in a lot more with only half an inch space. The gear teeth on the axle is only mating with about 1/4" of the gear teeth on the inside trans but should go in another half inch. Any help or suggestions appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I finally worked the halfshaft in today. I put a bit of trans fluid on the gears and clip, tapped it with a hammer, and gave it a big push and it finally went in.

I hope to finish it up tomorrow and test it out. Wish me luck!
 
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