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Hello friends,

My car is a '98, with 3.0 Vulcan, and AXOD(I think?) transmission. 200k miles on the car. I had performed a transmission pan drop with fluid and filter change. I also had reused the factory gasket, and had applied some red RTV to help seal things up. I then used a torque wrench to tighten the pan bolts to specification. However, the pan leaks badly, from the rear-most side of it, facing the rear of the vehicle. It holds maybe 2-3 qts of fluid, and if I try to add more, then it begins to leak out rapidly. The pan, aside from some dents on the outside, appears to be in good working order otherwise.

What would you advise? Thanks in advance
 

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You don't need any RTV if you are using the factory gasket. That is probably why it is leaking.
 

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Hello friends,

My car is a '98, with 3.0 Vulcan, and AXOD(I think?) transmission. 200k miles on the car. I had performed a transmission pan drop with fluid and filter change. I also had reused the factory gasket, and had applied some red RTV to help seal things up. I then used a torque wrench to tighten the pan bolts to specification. However, the pan leaks badly, from the rear-most side of it, facing the rear of the vehicle. It holds maybe 2-3 qts of fluid, and if I try to add more, then it begins to leak out rapidly. The pan, aside from some dents on the outside, appears to be in good working order otherwise.

What would you advise? Thanks in advance
The factory gasket is designed to be reused and NOT require sealant. Either the gasket is damaged or you used too much RTV. Get an OEM replacement gasket and get rid of the RTV.
 

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OR you bent the lip of the pan. I would take it off, hammer the lip and all the bolt holes straight on a flat surface and reinstall with a new gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the great replies. So it is now my understanding that adding the RTV actually hinders the gaskets ability to seal properly, is that right? I will source a new OEM gasket, try hammering the lip and bolt holes, and do away with the RTV and report back. Hope I don't end up with another $40 worth of trans fluid in my driveway this time ;)
 

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Just get a gasket from any parts store.
I got a 90 Bull for $200 because the trans leaked. I cleaned all the RTV off and put a gasket on and no more leak. So I then sold it for $500.
Don't cheap out and try to reuse a gasket.:rolleyes2: Most stores have the filter & gasket around $10.
 

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Rtv

The factory gasket is designed to be reused and NOT require sealant. Either the gasket is damaged or you used too much RTV. Get an OEM replacement gasket and get rid of the RTV.
Agree on RTV. Little will do it, more and you may pay the price.

On any gasket, if you get too much and it gets into the oil, it pluggs things up, maybe terminal.

-chart-
 

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If your oem gasket is ruined, get another oem gasket. Theyre reusuable. Those cheap flimsy aftermarket cork or rubber gaskets are just an invitation for leaks.
 

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Throw away that tube of RTV. It will cause the gasket to slip out of place.

Proper gaskets, installed properly with the correct adhesive (when necessary) always work much better than RTV or a mixture of RTV and gaskets.
 

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Rtv

Throw away that tube of RTV. It will cause the gasket to slip out of place.

Proper gaskets, installed properly with the correct adhesive (when necessary) always work much better than RTV or a mixture of RTV and gaskets.
There are times and places for RTV. Most engines have places where it required. They specify how much to use. Used by the directions is necessary. Gobbing it on anywhere is a formula for failure.

I have found it useful on places like thermostat housings and water pumps where they use what we call "paper" gaskets. I put the gasket on a paper on a flat surface and put the lightest coat on one side using my finger, then flipping it over and doing the other side. So this involves a very thin coat and I have had good success.

Of course it is not going to work on a rubber gasket.

-chart-
 

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Weatherstrip adhesive is what Ford

recommends to hold 'paper' gaskets in place.

Permatex and 3M sell their versions. I used Permatex and it worked well.

It's a solvent-based rubber (kind of like contact cement) that is applied to both the gasket and surface of the location where the part is to be mounted.

E.g. if mounting new waterpump, use the weatherstrip adhesive on the timing chain cover or block and gasket, let dry to tack then tack the gasket on to the cover/block.

No adhesive on the waterpump is required although some like to put RTV on the gasket side facing the waterpump. I don't.
 

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If your oem gasket is ruined, get another oem gasket. Theyre reusuable. Those cheap flimsy aftermarket cork or rubber gaskets are just an invitation for leaks.
Reusuable does not mean it will last forever. I got 15,000 miles into the third time I used the factory gasket before it started to leak enough fluid so that when I went around corners in my 96 Sable AX4N the transmission would go into neutral. I took off the gasket and put on a new factory gasket and the problem was solved.

I do not trust using the factory gasket more than twice - lesson learned !
 

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The one on my 2000 was fine, no leaks even when it was 9-10 years old.

A leaking gasket isn't going to cause your car to go into neutral around corners, something else was going on...
 

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^ Ive reused them 6-8 times with no leaks or problems. Anyways, like i said, if its damaged, get another oem gasket, not the crappy one that comes with the $20 filter kit.
 

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I agree with making sure the pan sealing surface is squeeky clean & flat. Same for the tranny case sealing surface & not having to use an RTV pan sealant.

FelPro makes a nice non cork reuseable pan gasket, thats packed such that it'll lay flat right out of the box. It has the bolt holes punched slightely undersized so that we can screw the pan fastners into it & they'll hold the pan gasket in place & it in turn will hold the fastners in place, thus giving us Both hands free to fiddle with getting the pan positioned & a couple of fastners started, to hold it up.

Run the fastners in evenly tight by hand with a nut driver, then tighten in a criss cross pattern with a torque wrench in 2-3 steps, so you don't warp the pan sealing surface.

My Taurus, Ranger & the wifes Neon all are using the FelPro tranny pan gaskets for more than 5 years, with no weeps so far.

More thoughts for consideration, let us know how it goes.
 

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^ Ive reused them 6-8 times with no leaks or problems. Anyways, like i said, if its damaged, get another oem gasket, not the crappy one that comes with the $20 filter kit.
I replaced the super awesome Ford OEM gasket that was leaking with one of "those crappy ones that come with the $20 filter kit" and it stopped the leaking. :confused:
 

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You should never need RTV at any time, even with cork gaskets.

Get a quality trans filter kit like a wix or even motorcraft, use the gasket that comes with it. I don't believe in reusable gaskets, especially when one comes with it.

Be wary of overtightening too!
 
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