[MyDaughtersCar]

The leak is coming from fly wheel cover plate. If I slightly pull up on the edge of the plate, the red fluid comes pouring out. I believe a seal is blown and the fluid is leaking into the fly wheel area and then leaking out from the fly wheel cover plate. Photos of the leak are attached.
Does anyone have a diagram or exploded view of what this could be?
Thanks

 

[mediarocker]

The leak is coming from fly wheel cover plate. If I slightly pull up on the edge of the plate, the red fluid comes pouring out. I believe a seal is blown and the fluid is leaking into the fly wheel area and then leaking out from the fly wheel cover plate. Photos of the leak are attached.
Does anyone have a diagram or exploded view of what this could be?
Thanks

I'm willing to wager your suspicions are correct. Sorry I don't have those diagrams anymore because I ran out of ALLDATA subscription about the time my vehicle got totaled.

Maybe somone who has one can chime in. I'm pretty sure you're gonna have to separate the engine and the tranny to service this. Might be a good point to service the transmission and its filter if it hasn't been already.When was your last flush and fill? These vehicles thrive on clean fluid and proper care. All too commonly I see these vehicles neglected, and then the vehicle, or brand blamed as a consequence of poor ownership. Might also be a good place to consider adding a shift kit.

Something also Important, is this a Duratec DOHC 24V or a Vulcan OHV 12V? And does the pan say AXOD or AX4N METRIC or something along those lines? This can help us out a great deal more so someone can provide the correct graphics to assist you.

 

[egiroux]

Probably Torque Converter bearing and seal. Here's what happened to mine:
http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/87-engine-drivetrain/156628-transmission-fluid-leak.html
http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/82-maintenance-repair/156770-if-has-come-out.html

 

[Bikeman999]

Same Exact Thing

Looks Like I have same dilema. Noticed ATF fluid in driveway after a fully loaded vacation drive of 300miles. Checked ATF and it was within range on dipstick. Drove back and forth to work of 12 miles parking in clean space looking for leaks...none over a weeks time. Decided it was OK. Started trip this weekend, noticed some hestitation at Drive to OD shift point and saw RPMs waver between 2000 and ~2200 as I Drove at 60MPH. Seemed like it was dropping out of OD every couple of minutes irregardless of load. Going thru small town got a large shutter starting from a Red Light, but car seemed to shift normally into OD as I entered Interstate. After about 5miles, the Transaxle warning light came on. Seemed like Tranny stayed in D and didn't allow shifting to OD as RPMS were 2300 or so at cruising speed. Stopped at Nearest dealer, and saw no fluid on dipstick. Tried putting fluid in, but it ended up on the floor. Put it on lift and saw leak at same spot as your picture.
Don't know what to do....leave at dealer(which is 150miles from home), take to AAMCO, or just call and donate it. It's been great car with 94,000 miles but I don't want to dump a ton of money into it. Please indicate your finding..... I did see a TSB about fluid leaks but can't find it.
I did have the A/C compressor just recently replaced....Any connection here?

 

[SpdMongrel]

Just had to fix mine. Replaced the converter and seal. Same symptoms you describe.

 

[Bikeman999]

How Much did that cost?

I swa you had the same symptoms, did you do the work or did you have soemone do it and what did it cost?

 

[shoz123]

The seal fails usually because the fluid has been running too hot.

 

[MyDaughtersCar]

The leak is coming from fly wheel cover plate. If I slightly pull up on the edge of the plate, the red fluid comes pouring out. I believe a seal is blown and the fluid is leaking into the fly wheel area and then leaking out from the fly wheel cover plate. Photos of the leak are attached.
Does anyone have a diagram or exploded view of what this could be?
Thanks

29AUG2010 - I removed the flywheel cover yesterday (photo) and did not see any leaks or cracks. I left the flywheel cover off and did some troubleshooting. I had to first remove the starter and then put it back to start the car (without the flywheel cover installed). All drips were cleaned up to check for new leaks. It took 2 qts of fluid to bring it up to mid mark on the dip stick. Test drove fine for about 1 mile. After that I found a single drop of fluid at the bottom of the flywheel housing (photo). More concerning was the leakage around the transmission pan (photo).
At this point I concluded the original problem (big fluid leak) may have been caused by a slow leak at the front seal that dripped down into the flywheel housing and accomulated for a long time and then at one time all leaked out. I then dropped the pan and replaced the transmission filter, cleaned the (very dirty) inside of the pan and replaced the gasket. I am going to fill the fluid today and check for leaks. To resolve the small leak at the front seal (flywheel), I might use Lucas fluid sealer.

 

[shoz123]

Do you have an aux cooler for the tranny? Sounds like it is only leaking at the front seal when it gets hot. This will eventually get worse unless it is kept under 250F or so.

 

[egiroux]

29AUG2010 - At this point I concluded the original problem (big fluid leak) may have been caused by a slow leak at the front seal that dripped down into the flywheel housing and accomulated for a long time and then at one time all leaked out....I might use Lucas fluid sealer.

Your conclusion is unlikely, and any 'seal conditioner' is not recommended as they soften then ruin all the seals they come in contact with. I was very disappointed when I figured out the true cause of the leak. I fixed it and I'm very pleased with the results.

 

[Bikeman999]

Update

So my saga continues from above. I stopped by the dealer where I left the car (2001 3.0L V6) over the weekend. No ATF drips under car. I then started car and got a a couple ounces that came out at once, but then ran car for a a few minutes and just saw a drip or so. I drove it to Advanced Auto and had codes read, which indicated: "Torque Converter Stuck". The car seemed to be running fine, so I decided to limp it home. I got it up the interstate about 50miles and left it at another shop. The Transaxle light came on, along with the Check Engine light.
The shop called me today and said they put 1 & 1/2 quarts of ATF in it and test drove it with no problems.
My question is will low ATF fluid cause the "stuck" code and am I looking at a seal problem or am I looking at a T/C problem that is causing a seal problem?
Don't have the tools to do work myself, so was wondering what would be ballpark costs of fixing this problem without replacing transmission for ~$3K.

 

[egiroux]

When the fluid gets low and the pump sucks in air many things are affected. The torque converter fails in the locked position-it needs fluid to release. The leak only happens when the fluid gets hot(your 50 mile drive). It will be fine for short trips around town as long as the fluid level is correct. Add a tranny cooler when you have the work done.

 

[shoz123]

The TCC system is part electrical and party hydraulic.

If the TCC solenoid coil is working and the TCC is not then there is some sort of hydraulic failure. One would be lack of pressure due to aerated fluid of just plain too low. Or the failure of the coil to open the solenoid valve. Or an internal leak.

The TCC solenoid valve is variable opening by way of a PWM voltage sent to the solenoid coil from the PCM. If the values are incorrect from the PCM then there is a sensor or wiring problem. If the PCM values are good then it is a hydraulic problem.

 

[Bikeman999]

The Bull is Back!

My transaxle problems have been solved! I broke down and had the transmission replaced with a new Motorcraft unit by a dealer in VA. Total cost was $3200 and it is guaranteed by for for 36months and 60K miles. So hopefully, my Bull Wagon will continue to live on.