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If you do have a transmission fluid leak, it could become serious, and quickly, even if it stays stable for a while, with no obvious shifting problems. That's what happened with my Taurus's transmission at the end of 2009--it started out as a slow leak from the gaskets for the transmission pan and the transmission side cover, which I could see when I got under the engine, but every time I measured the fluid level, it looked good, so I thought the leak was slow enough that I could just keep topping off the fluid level every now and then until I could deal with it properly later. My particular error was, I wasn't measuring the fluid level correctly since this was/is my first real car (I got rid of my first two before I'd driven them much, due to issues), and I hadn't yet learned how to do it the right way--I was measuring it while the engine wasn't running, since I thought I could estimate the difference shown on the dipstick between running and not running, and compensate for that, and I also thought the difference wouldn't be significant enough to worry about. But it is, since if you measure the fluid while the engine isn't running, it gives you an inaccurately high reading since half of the transmission fluid in the torque converter drains into the pan, thus raising its measured level.

One day my transmission began making awful clunks when I'd shift from Neutral to Overdrive, and when pulling away from a stop, and wouldn't shift properly as I'd drive, at which point I decided to find out how to really measure transmission fluid level--while running in idle, level, and at normal engine operating temperature--and I found the tip of the dipstick had only a tiny drop of oil on it, so more had leaked out than I thought, possibly in a sudden increase of leakage too. I replaced the fluid that had leaked out (I didn't do a full flush of the old fluid since I wanted to see if the transmission was too far gone to waste a lot of new fluid on), and the transmission started to act mostly OK again, but with a little remaining clunking (when pulling away from a stop) that I hadn't had before the fluid had leaked out. I decided that if this remaining clunking indicated the transmission was now badly damaged, I didn't want to waste time replacing its gaskets, but I wanted to try one last thing: I poured in a bottle of Lubegard red. The clunking didn't stop immediately, but it did stop about a month later, which I've read since then, is about how long it can take if clunking/bad shifting is caused by gummy buildup that can be cleaned out by new fluid or an additive (in other words, maybe the clunking would have been cleared up even if I hadn't put in the Lubegard). All of this implied to me the transmission wasn't totally fried, but I didn't follow up by replacing the gaskets, because the gasket/seal conditioners in the new transmission fluid or/and the Lubegard expanded the gaskets to the point where the leaking stopped. Great, I thought--two birds with one stone. But both problems (slight clunking, and a little leaking at the gaskets) returned a couple months ago, making me admit I should have replaced the gaskets in 2009. Which is what I'm going to do now, and then work on the transmission later, once I learn how to properly resolve the clunking (if it's not just a fluids issue). I've also stopped being sloppy in my thinking about my car's problems and maintenance, after having a few other "what, me worry?" situations come back to bite me.

I relate all of that to show how neglecting to replace leaking gaskets can cause trouble, and that the best solution is to replace them instead of using gasket/seal conditioners (in case you get tempted).

If you haven't already, you should check whether there's any obvious confirmation of Jiffy Lube's diagnosis by getting under the engine and looking for any visible transmission fluid leaks from:

- the transmission pan gasket
- the transmission side cover
- the lines running from the transmission to the cooler
- maybe more locations (other people here would know better than I)
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