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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
While checking the A/C today noticed a large(2 ft dia.) puddle of ATF under the car. The fluid is coming out at a fast rate with the engine idling, not leaking with it off. It's coming from the area where the TC seal is. Could it be anything else? Not even a drop last week-do these fail catastrophically? Cost to repair?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
It gets worse...Trans is making noise like bearing without lubrication, and dipstick had light blackish film which transferred to paper towl when wiped. Doesn't seem good...
 

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the blackish film is carbon and its found in transmission fluid, its put in as a friction modifier. The stator support contains 1 bushing and 1 bearing to get access to them you must remove the transmission, remove the valve body cover, valve body and pump, also the chain cover and the drive and driven gears and chain. You then must drive out the seal and unbolt the stator from the converter side uing a 30 torx.

Tools to do the disassemble the transmission are 30 torx, 13mm socket, 10mm socket, 8mm socket and a 24mm socket, 6mm Allen socket and a 19mmm socket with those tools you can completely disassemble the transmission, to do what you need.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the help. I've never pulled out a FWD tranny, so this will be a new one for me. I'll get it up on jackstands this weekend. Should I consider a newer tranny(less miles) if I have to pull it anyway?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Found another thread here which described this type of leak only happening when the trans is hot. It only appeared when the outside temp was 90 deg. Went out and started the car today, and it doesn't leak a drop!!!!! The noise was low power steering fluid, which I can explain by air in the system from when I disassembled the front end. I guess I'll be avoiding the highway on hot days until I get the stator bearing and seal issue dealt with. This site is really helpful!!! Thanks.
 

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QUOTE (2000_Gold_Taurus @ Apr 9 2010, 06:28 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=796406
Found another thread here which described this type of leak only happening when the trans is hot. It only appeared when the outside temp was 90 deg. Went out and started the car today, and it doesn't leak a drop!!!!! The noise was low power steering fluid, which I can explain by air in the system from when I disassembled the front end. I guess I'll be avoiding the highway on hot days until I get the stator bearing and seal issue dealt with. This site is really helpful!!! Thanks.[/b]
It might be the tranny vent plug stopped up that you are thinking about. There is a TSB on eratic fluid levels on taurus and sable from 2007 back to about 96 if i remember correctly. I just found the TSB a day or 2 ago. I will look the number up It involves a new vent plug and a 2 foot piece of vacuum hose.

As for the thread problem, it sounds more serious than the TSB i described. Although the vent may have caused enough loss to allow the tranny to run low and hot and make the dark particles. The tranny fluid should look translucent red when new and will get wear particles from the bands that will make it look dark. At some point you need to flush it. I had mine flushed at about 100k. I have never seen new transmission fluid with carbon particles added.

My gold 2002 Sable has had an unknown leak for years. It typically does it when first started up. It will spit out a table spoon full and or leave a stream and drip trial for about 100 feet. By the time I get it to the shop a few miles away they cant tell where it came from and the dip stick seems to show in the cross hatch for several months. I have asked the local dealer and shade shop to try and find it. No luck. It involves a new vent plug and a 2 foot piece of vacuum hose.

Last summer my old 97 Sable showed below the low level. It took 2 quarts to fill it. It would then loose about a quart every 2 weeks for about 3 months. Then it stopped about the time I used a fluid for older cars that had a stop leak in it. But I'm not sure the stop leak cured or it was the cooler weather. Now the fluid level shows abour 2 inches above the Hi mark. I havent gotten around to removing any and just found the TSB.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The transmission is out! Long day, but no major issues. The stator bearing is definitely worn. Also need to repair 2 subframe bushings, weld plate on subframe where subframe mount used to attach(rusted through), both ball joints, sway bar links, heater line(almost rusted through), exhaust flange studs(had to cut them), AC clutch. Oh, and rebuild the transmission...
 

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The transmission is out! Long day, but no major issues. The stator bearing is definitely worn. Also need to repair 2 subframe bushings, weld plate on subframe where subframe mount used to attach(rusted through), both ball joints, sway bar links, heater line(almost rusted through), exhaust flange studs(had to cut them), AC clutch. Oh, and rebuild the transmission...
Sounds like a fun task you're going through - I don't envy you. Then again, you're at a point where you get to hand pick the quality of the parts you replace and not rely on shop, which might use the cheapest available. :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I think the result will be a reliable car that will run for while. It's a good chance to inspect all of those things normally not seen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Some Pics

Here are a few pictures of the progress.
The threads here were very valuable to get this done. The only comments I have are that the little pin on the transmission mount got stuck. It appeared that something was pushing up on the subframe at the drivers side front. It was actually pivoting on the little alignment pin. PITA.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Examined the TC bearing and found scoring on one side. The converter has more slop than I would expect, which agrees with the theory. I haven't measured the bore yet. Also have valve body out and cleaned up. Everything looks OK so far.
 

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looks like you got everything under control, but just to throw it by, i had the same problem with heat and all, turned out to be a main seal on me, id give them lil suckers a check, of course it comes from a pretty noticeable place when that leaks, right from the dust guard for the flywheel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Other Repairs

The tranny repair is coming together nicely. I'm going to do a little work on the subframe rust. First I gave my little MIG welder a well deserved gift (it's 25 years old!). It was on sale at Harbor Freight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
AC clutch fixed

The AC clutch is fixed. The bearing literally fell apart when I pulled it out! I had to straighten out the pully and resurface it. I set the gap at .018" and that should be that. The water pump looks easy to access with the engine dropped down, so I think I'll install the replacement I bought tomorrow. Then I need to repair the rusted out heater line and replace the rear spark plugs and wires as I can actually see them now. My new pump bearing for the trans should be here tomorrow, so I'll button that up and put it back.
 
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