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Okay So i was the recent victim of a ford transmission failure, crazy eh? lol But anyways They were working on the car when I called to see how much it costs to install a secondary transmission cooler. They were like you might not be able to fit one in there, but we'll check, so the guy calls back the next day and says I need one because the stock cooler does not have enough pressure or something so he needed to bypass it completely... Does that make sense?

Note: I was not sure if this was a performance modifiication or a repair issues...
 

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The stock tranny cooler is IN the radiator; basically, it can only lower the temperature of the tranny to the temperature of the engine, and even then, it would never do that.

You can bypass it completely by putting another cooler in front of it and running lines to the cooler in front of the radiator. If you really have problems with pressure, a stacked plate design should be nice.

Also, although it probably isn't good for the tranny to be running too cold, that really isn't an issue with our transmissions. Even with the largest tranny cooler available, although it will be cooled off considerably, it'll still be well within operating temperatures at all times.
 

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Well at least Now I'll be able to easily add more coolers if i really wanted to for what ever reason, lol. It does shift nice and quick now which is very nice.
 

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While you have it in the shop have them put an inline b&M spin on filter on it also,
I ran one on my 94GL and made 246K before the trans crapped out.
The extra line and filter will add fluid volume and can be replaced every 10K in about two minutes. Plus it looks cool!!!!!!!
 

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Originally posted by biteableniles@Dec 9 2003, 01:45 AM
Also, although it probably isn't good for the tranny to be running too cold, that really isn't an issue with our transmissions. Even with the largest tranny cooler available, although it will be cooled off considerably, it'll still be well within operating temperatures at all times.
With a bypass-style cooler, it's even less of an issue. Most of the stacked-plate designs allow the majority fluid to travel through the very bottom (or top) of the cooler when the fluid is cold, so the cooling function is bypassed. When the fluid warms up and thins out, it flows through the entire cooler.
 

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QUOTE
The stock tranny cooler is IN the radiator; basically, it can only lower the temperature of the tranny to the temperature of the engine, and even then, it would never do that.[/b]
Unless your car is boiling over the coolant in the radiator is NEVER as hot as what is in your engine. I would and do keep the OEM radiator cooler installed and there is no sense ripping out the OEM aux cooler if you have one. 130F coolant is still cooler than over heated ATX fluid at 200F.
 

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In my Gen 3, the tranny cooler tube is outside. its not cooled by the radiator.
its just a straight tube.. with NO fins. the PS cooler tube has fins what a design


btw.. what temps to the TF reach during normal driving?
 

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You also have a tranny cooler in the radiator. Tranny fluid will get to 175F under normal conditions. Over 225F and you are looking at trouble.
 

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ARE YOU SURE that the 96 gl has a in-radiator tranny cooler (stock).
As far as i see, its jut the stock tube outside.. beside the ps cooler tube..
 

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Don't know of any Ford with an automatic that doesn't have a cooler in the radiator.

It is on the passanger side. You should see two tubes fgoing into the side tank from the vack of the radiator.

Here is the Helm description of the coolers.
QUOTE
Fluid Cooler, Integral
The automatic transaxle cooling systems consist of:

an integral transaxle fluid cooler.
a tubular design auxiliary transaxle fluid cooler.
The integral transaxle fluid cooler is located inside the radiator. Transmission fluid flows from the pump assembly to the integral transaxle fluid cooler in the radiator before continuing to the auxiliary transaxle fluid cooler. If fluid leaks are found to be originating at the radiator, the entire radiator should be replaced.[/b]
and more

QUOTE
Fluid Cooler Steel Tubes Using Push Connect Fittings� At Radiator

SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED  Description  Tool Number 
3/8 Inch Fuel Line Disconnect Tool (Blue)  T90T-9550-C 


If leakage is noted at transaxle fluid tube connector at the radiator, disconnect cooler line using 3/8 Inch Fuel Line Disconnect Tool (Blue) T90T-9550-C. Remove cooler line.






Remove push connect fitting from radiator.

Install 3/8 inch angled flare fitting into radiator. Tighten fitting to 24-31 Nm (18-22 lb-ft).

Cut approximately 76-102 mm (3-4 inches) from existing cooler line.

Using new cooler line steel tubing (or equivalent of SAE J526 welded low carbon lead/tin coated 10 mm (3/8 inch) OD), cut a piece of sufficient length. Shape it to connect the existing line to the new flare fitting.

Clean all cut ends of both lines with the blade edge of the cutting tool to avoid line restrictions. Clean metal particles from the tube ends.

Install Flare Nut 87944-S8 or equivalent on the radiator end of the new cooler line section.

Connect the new cooler line section to the existing cooler line using a piece of 10 mm (3/8 inch) fuel line hose and two worm drive hose clamps. Use a sufficient length of fuel line hose to achieve a 38-51 mm (1-1/2 to 2-inch) overlap of the ends of the cooler lines.

Connect the cooler line to the flare fittings and tighten to 16-24 Nm (12-17 lb-ft).[/b]
 

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Really, it has 1 cooler and one joke.
That tube can't drop the temp more than a degree or two. The B&M on mine makes a difference you can feel by putting one hand on each tube when the engine is running. The input is HOT, the output is WARM. That's gotta be a 10-20 degree drop, at least.
 

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well why doesnt the IN-Radiator tranny cooler drop the ATF temp the most.

After all water cooler should drop the temp the MOST?
 

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It's a brand name
 

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Originally posted by minutiesabotage@Dec 12 2003, 01:45 PM
I know I sound like a newb (which I am) but what does B&M stand for?
Balls & Muscle... just kidding. It's a brand name.
 
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