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My 90 vulcun has been eating a lot of gas so i pulled the codes and is says my TSP is not working correctly.

The question is how do I check to make sure the TPS is working correctly
 

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I had a similar problem with my 1990 wagon and found the information below from an earlier post:

I know that the max is 5V and that when fully closed it should be .92V to .98V
If it functions within that range when you operate the throttle it's fine.
when not touching the pedle the voltage was .92543V and when wide open throttle it was 4.6075V


I plug a couple of wires in the electrical connector and check the voltage at idle and at WOT and I got very similar to the above numbers. I re-run the test and just pressed the pedal harder and the code is not there... but the MAF code (74, I believe) still came out :huh: . That was a while back.. I should try it again.

Good Luck!
 

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Originally posted by ddt90GL@Sep 7 2004, 07:17 PM
I had a similar problem with my 1990 wagon and found the information below from an earlier post:

I know that the max is 5V and that when fully closed it should be .92V to .98V
If it functions within that range when you operate the throttle it's fine.
when not touching the pedle the voltage was .92543V and when wide open throttle it was 4.6075V


I plug a couple of wires in the electrical connector and check the voltage at idle and at WOT and I got very similar to the above numbers. I re-run the test and just pressed the pedal harder and the code is not there... but the MAF code (74, I believe) still came out :huh: . That was a while back.. I should try it again.

Good Luck!
Using the little wires as probes works OK. I've found the best device to use is a wire piercing probe for a multimeter. The probe inserts a tiny point through the insulation and holds itself in place via an internal spring.

I have a Fluke piercing probe and it will work with meters other than Fluke. I think I paid about $40 CDN ($30 US).


Mark
95 SHO
 

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That's O.K. But a "live" reading from the data stream while the vehicle is running is always best. You can then read & compare sveral inputs & outputs at once! Of course you'll need a scan tool of some variety... Snap-On, Mac, OTC, Matco all have good ones, but they'll cost you. I'm lucky enough to have the Ford N.G.S.(New Gen Scanner) & W.D.S. (Worldwide Diagnostic Sys.) at my disposal from work! Being a Ford Tech. does have some advantages... although fewer every year! LOL!!!!!

* I've found that "adjusting" the TPS to 1.00V at idle & 5.00V at WOT works best, performance wise. You've gotta' slot the mounting bolt holes a little to do it.
 
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