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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello all!
Not even sure this is the right place to ask but any advice would be awesome.I have a old 2007 Ford Taurus SE 3.0(probly too old)that just doesn't wanna run right for nothing.I am in no way a mechanic and we can't afford one anyway so I been working on this pos started with a torque converter (learning experience)I have replaced everything here:

Fuel pump+filter
Alternator
Spark Plugs+wires+ignition coil
Mass Air Flow Sensor
All O2 Sensors
Air Filter
Cleaned Fuel Injectors(about to replace)
Checked with gum out and repaired all vacuum leaks (was 2)and replaced intake gaskets with no effect.

I have 1 code now P0174 Bank 2 lean.Bank 1 shows 25% Bank 2 shows 12% Long Term Trim! Only half of my engine is running and I'm at the end of the list of things to replace. So I signed up here hoping anyone could shine a little light.I don't know much about mechanicing but I have a Bluetooth dongle that can provide alot of info on the car. Any info needed ask ,any advice would be greatly appreciated. Again I'm not a mechanic...just a guy trying to fix his families car.Thanks in advance
 

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I have no idea what you mean by" bank 1 25 psi and bank 2 12 psi". Are you talking about long term fuel trims which are PERCENT not psi???

Dont waste $$$ on new injectors!!! Modern injectors are a VERY rare fail. If you think they are gummed up, get them professionally cleaned and flow tested for 1/3 to 1/4 the cost of new ones. It is nearly impossible to clean gummed up injectors yourself at home.

Same for modern MAFs....... VERY rare for them to fail. A good gleaning with MAF cleaner every 50K miles is about all they ever may need. If you have a failed MAF, you would get a code for it.

171 / 174 codes are due to vacuum leaks 99.5% of the time.

My guess is you have a vacuum leak on bank 2 (the front bank). Leak on just one bank is often bad intake gaskets.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Your right it is percent.I have an injector cleaning rig all injectors work all spray normally. I've replaced the intake gaskets and checked all vacuum seals and hoses multiple times all in good condition nothing brittle or broken.MAF is new. All O2 sensors are new because it gave a stuck lean on bank 2 down stream so I replaced them all. That code is gone. All the normal repairs I've done already. This thing is stubborn.

P.S. Thanks for the reply
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Did you replace upper and lower intake gaskets?
[/QUOT
Not sure what you mean by upper and lower. This intake has 3 set of 2 gaskets plus the big O ring at the top back passenger side of the intake..don't know what that is exactly but there was a vac leak there so I installed a new ring. Please elaborate if I'm missing something.

Edit:^^^ lol was missing a big something
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I really feel kinda dumb not knowing about the lower intake gaskets. But hey that's why I made the post. After Sheila's post I did some research and now I'm just a tiny bit more intelligent lol. Thanks again....Now to start this fun task....

Looking at an oil leak from a valve cover again ...pretty sure it's the intake gasket not the valve cover.
 

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FYI, that O ring like seal on the back of the intake on the pass side is for the "tuning valve" that changes the intake runner length for a broader torque curve. That O ring like gasket that looks like an oil filter gasket is a very common vac leak point on later model Vulcans.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
FYI, that O ring like seal on the back of the intake on the pass side is for the "tuning valve" that changes the intake runner length for a broader torque curve. That O ring like gasket that looks like an oil filter gasket is a very common vac leak point on later model Vulcans.
Thanks for the info Jeff. I'm going to start turning wrenches in the morning. Hopefully everything will go smoothly but then again if something is gonna happen it's gonna happen to me lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Bit of a set back....shiny new out of foam packaging torque wrench isn't calibrated or it's broken. No click so I barred down broke the bolt...me not knowing the wrench was all jacked up and inexperience. Bolt end is out got a new bolt getting a new wrench tomorrow. I'll be testing it first this time.
 

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Only things I use a torque wrench for are lug nuts and head bolts. Everything else I just use my "calibrated hand" on the wrench or ratchet.
 
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Only things I use a torque wrench for are lug nuts and head bolts. Everything else I just use my "calibrated hand" on the wrench or ratchet.
Spindle nuts are a bit in need of very precise torque. Determines preload on the bearings.
I agree with the others you mentioned.
-chart-
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well that's done!! And the car runs... exactly as it did before aside from having more power. It still runs like an old tractor. No codes though driving or parked. Any ideas besides another car?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I don't know what else is left. Rings aren't burnt no smoke no bad sounds(other than the bad running) no codes ...it shifts every gear no problem just runs bad and not good enough to go out of town..got about $1000 in just parts into it....should run like near new.
 

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Try checking compression if you have you think you have confident you don't have a vacuum leak or ignition coil and or plugs and wires. Also make sure you ran the wires properly to the right place. Easy to mess those up.
 
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