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Performance Brake Rotors & Ceramic Pads Front and Rear - eBay (item 290505412168 end time Dec-27-10 11:28:15 PST)

am looking in to replacing my break rotors and pads to buy from advanced auto wagner gold pads and 2 front rotors and 2 rear rotors it would be 145.00 FREE shipping and i went on ebay and i can buy the breakmotive 2 front 2 rear rotors and pads for 151.99 FREE shipping so what are the advantage of slotted and drilled rotors

this is what i do with my wagon i haul a lot snowmobile trailer / pop up camper / utility trailer
 

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Performance Brake Rotors & Ceramic Pads Front and Rear - eBay (item 290505412168 end time Dec-27-10 11:28:15 PST)

am looking in to replacing my break rotors and pads to buy from advanced auto wagner gold pads and 2 front rotors and 2 rear rotors it would be 145.00 FREE shipping and i went on ebay and i can buy the breakmotive 2 front 2 rear rotors and pads for 151.99 FREE shipping so what are the advantage of slotted and drilled rotors

this is what i do with my wagon i haul a lot snowmobile trailer / pop up camper / utility trailer
One of the best features of slotted/drilled rotors is that they channel away the gasses that build up with high-heat on organic pads. You don't get much of that on ceramic pads, though. Somebody can confirm though, I'm sure there's still tons of brake fade on ceramic pads on the track. For heavy-duty street, they'll be good for cooling under heavy breaking. If auto wagner's gold pads are ceramic, then that's fine, if it's anything else, I'd go with the breakmotive stuff. Also, for an extra $1.50 a rotor, why not upgrade to slotted/drilled?
 

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One of the best features of slotted/drilled rotors is that they channel away the gasses that build up with high-heat on organic pads. You don't get much of that on ceramic pads, though. Somebody can confirm though, I'm sure there's still tons of brake fade on ceramic pads on the track. For heavy-duty street, they'll be good for cooling under heavy breaking. If auto wagner's gold pads are ceramic, then that's fine, if it's anything else, I'd go with the breakmotive stuff. Also, for an extra $1.50 a rotor, why not upgrade to slotted/drilled?
so you have heard of breakmotive
 

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I haven't heard of breakmotive. The SHO ones are better because they're an 11.6" IIRC, versus the G3's stock 10.8". I don't know the exact dimensions, but the G3 SHO & G4 anything have bigger brakes than G3 & prior. There's topics about how to modify your brakes for the 11.6" rotor, but the slotted/drilled kit for your car will do fine. I have monroe ceramic pads and 'premium' solid rotors, and I went from 90 to 20 in what seemed like less than a second when some jackass pulled out in front of me from a dead stop on the freeway.
 

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I haven't heard of breakmotive. The SHO ones are better because they're an 11.6" IIRC, versus the G3's stock 10.8". I don't know the exact dimensions, but the G3 SHO & G4 anything have bigger brakes than G3 & prior. There's topics about how to modify your brakes for the 11.6" rotor, but the slotted/drilled kit for your car will do fine. I have monroe ceramic pads and 'premium' solid rotors, and I went from 90 to 20 in what seemed like less than a second when some jackass pulled out in front of me from a dead stop on the freeway.[/QUOTE]


that sucks
 

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No kidding. Lesson learned, big fancy rotors do wonders on a track, but you'll be fine with solid rotors and good quality ceramic pads. The slotted/drilled kit for an extra $6 is just extra awesome insurance incase you get repeated jackasses pulling in front of you.
 

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Slotted and drilled rotors are mainly for looks. I used to have a pile of rotors that had cracks around the holes and these rotors were high dollar rotors some from Baer Racing. Plain rotors will work fine. Invest your money in good pads. Before I upgraded my brakes, I ran with stock sized cryo treated rotors and PFCM pads just fine. Now I have Baer Racing PBR calipers with custom 2-piece curved vane Wilwood rotors.

Bob
 

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When it comes to slotted/drilled rotors there are two types that determine quality and reliability. You have ones that have been cast, when the rotor was formed, it was formed in a jig which formed the slots/holes with the rest of the rotor, your major brake manufacturers do this. Then you have those who just buy rotor blanks and then drill/machine the holes/slots into them, this severely compromises the metallurgical structure of the rotor, this is why you hear people who say they see cracks radiating from the holes of cheap drilled rotors:



Pads do not gas out, not since the ban on asbestos linings. Cross-drilling and slotting removes material from the rotor, making them lighter and when it comes to the most bang-for-the-buck in weight reduction, reducing unsprung mass nets you the most reward and, well, rotors happen to be unsprung mass. This is the only benefit to cross-drilling or slotting rotors.

A rotor's job is to take the friction from the pads, which translates into heat and dissipate it. When you remove material from the rotor, what do you think that does to it's thermal conductivity? Yeah, lessens it. You are more likely to experience brake fade and that is a fact unless someone wants to challenge the laws of thermodynamics. B)
 

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A rotor's job is to take the friction from the pads, which translates into heat and dissipate it. When you remove material from the rotor, what do you think that does to it's thermal conductivity? Yeah, lessens it. You are more likely to experience brake fade and that is a fact unless someone wants to challenge the laws of thermodynamics. B)
Brake fade - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

HowStuffWorks "Drilled Brake Rotors"

Your logic is sound, but not your conclusion.
 

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I don't see how, both of your links dictate that extreme temperatures of either the pad/rotor or fluid within the caliper are the root causes of brake fade. Which leads to the development of air vents for brakes, 'turbine-cooled brakes' for the Veyron or brake pad heatsinks.

Also the links do not recommend crossdrilled rotors for anything outside of street duty, if racing they recommend slotted if not blanks. HowStuffWorks seems to imply that some people do extreme driving through car washes thus they should equip their car with crossdrilled rotors :lol2:

Also when have you ever seen a major brake manufacturer NOT recommend selling you the more expensive crossdrilled rotors? StopTech does just that:

'StopTech provides rotors slotted, drilled or plain. For most performance applications slotted is the preferred choice. Slotting helps wipe away debris from between the pad and rotor as well as increasing the "bite" characteristics of the pad. A drilled rotor provides the same type of benefit, but is more susceptible to cracking under severe usage. Many customers prefer the look of a drilled rotor and for street and occasional light duty track use they will work fine. For more severe applications, we recommend slotted rotors.'
 

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I wonder why police departments don't use cross drilled rotors on their fleets? I've heard the same thing about them: it takes away from the metal/surface area in the rotor, and they don't last as long as plain flat rotors do. I would invest in the 11.6 rotor upgrade, but with the best plain rotor, and best ceramic pads you can get. Cheaper pads tend to leave more deposits, and cheap ceramic pads can be very noisey. I'm happy with the Napa ultra premium rotors with ceramic hybrid pads, they're very quiet, and stop well.
 

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if you are goiing to keep your car for a while you should consider the 11.6 upgrade if you want the best bang for your buck. The only additional investment is the caliper bracket and 16" wheels. I am assuming you will do it when your tires are near the end of their life. if not you can sell them as a package and recoupe some of your investment. You can pick up a set of used alloys for about $150 and brackets are about 17 each on rockauto.
The improvement in braking with the 11.6 rotor with a ceramic pad is very remarkable.

From what I have read and learned from speaking to others, I have never been very impressed by the practical benefits of drilled and slotted rotors for street driving. If you want them for looks that something different.

Just an FYI, Here is the latest new gee whizz rotor from Raybestos.
http://info.rockauto.com/Raybestos/R300_Rotor_Broch_Final.pdf





I
 
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