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Well lets see, if happened just as you shifted from "R" to "D" after backing out of the driveway, maybe the TRS, it's electrical connector & wiring still belong on your suspect list.

Also I believe in addition to removing the Radar Detector & finding the power point fuse blown & replacing it, you had just removed the computes electrical connector to check it's contacts for bent or pushed back pins or sockets, or any corrosion thereon & replaced the connectors cover, which you posted pictures of. Just trying to recall ALL the things you last did, just before it stopped acting out last time.

As I recall this problem was first solved when you replaced the alternator, only to have it return, then find the replacement alternator regulator had a bad diode & you replaced the alternator again.

So SHOZ123 has a point, one of the common themes running through all this commotion has been a faulty alternator, so I suppose it still belongs on your suspect list for now.

Through all this, have you tried a "wiggle" test of the battery cables & the TRS connector & it's wiring, while the vehicle is in gear?????

Have you inspcted & wiggled all the battery to engine & battery to body ground connections & like SHOZ123 said, the B+ cable from the battery, all the way to the power distibution box????

More things to ponder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
Have you pulled the cables off the MEGA fuse post and looked to see that all is good there?

It sounds like either a bad cable, corrosion on the cable ends of bad alternator to me. Either that or the battery saver relay needs replaced.

I don't see how any minor load that won't blow a fuse would cause any of this.
[/b]

I have yet to find this 'magical battery saver' relay. I already replaced the PCM relay as stated earlier in this huge long thread.

I have pulled connections (when I was under the hood last) about 2.5 months ago and nothing looked corroded.

Well lets see, if happened just as you shifted from "R" to "D" after backing out of the driveway, maybe the TRS, it's electrical connector & wiring still belong on your suspect list.

Also I believe in addition to removing the Radar Detector & finding the power point fuse blown & replacing it, you had just removed the computes electrical connector to check it's contacts for bent or pushed back pins or sockets, or any corrosion thereon & replaced the connectors cover, which you posted pictures of. Just trying to recall ALL the things you last did, just before it stopped acting out last time.

As I recall this problem was first solved when you replaced the alternator, only to have it return, then find the replacement alternator regulator had a bad diode & you replaced the alternator again.

So SHOZ123 has a point, one of the common themes running through all this commotion has been a faulty alternator, so I suppose it still belongs on your suspect list for now.

Through all this, have you tried a "wiggle" test of the battery cables & the TRS connector & it's wiring, while the vehicle is in gear?????

Have you inspcted & wiggled all the battery to engine & battery to body ground connections & like SHOZ123 said, the B+ cable from the battery, all the way to the power distibution box????

More things to ponder.
[/b]

I will try the wiggle and test theory. I hate to have the car in gear though because the parking brake is not strong enough to hold it from rolling backwards or forwards. Can I do this in NEUTRAL? The alternator test just didn't come back a bad diode as it has in the past when this was happening more frequently.

When I get some time I will take a closure look at what you and SHOZ have posted and see what I can find. Please keep posting back with any new information or thoughts on this.

ALSO, if anyone has a specific location (i.e. RELAY #XXX) for this battery saver relay in a 2001 Taurus SES please let me know.
I am all down for an $8 relay change out.

~Matt
 

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Battery saver relay is under the hood in the central junction box.
 

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This is really going to throw you for a loop when it starts cutting out going down the freeway at 60mph like our has been doing for the last several months, and then just starting right back up BY IT SELF, like nothing was ever wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
Battery saver relay is under the hood in the central junction box.
[/b]

SHOZ, I hate to be picky, but you would mind giving me a relay number? The only reason I ask is because my manual has some xeroxed pages pasted in it. Looks like the original diagrams were wrong and someone 'fixed' them. I do not have a way to very if this was done at the factory, the rental agency that owned it, or the used dealer that I bought it from.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
Okay, this is what I have. I do not see anything on here marked 'Battery Saver Relay'. Is it marked something different?

I have already replaced relay 31 (PCM Power Relay) and mini-fuse 18 (Cigar Lighter)

~matt
 

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Passenger compartment fuse panel #26 is the battery saver relay.

Page 149 in the manual.
 

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Yup, seems to be correct, after actually looking it up, LOL.

[attachmentid=25980]



[attachmentid=25981]
 

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Back to the drawing board.

The actual relay should be in the Central Junction Box which is under the hood.

#26 in the pax compartment is just the fuse for the relay.

Well, rudedog, it's apparently relay K115.

Got a diagram of the CJB that shows the position of K115?
 

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I don't see any relays in the CJB Central Junction Box. Which is also labeled above as P91, just like it is here.

[attachmentid=25982]


Only other thing I have found on my Cd.

[attachmentid=25983]
 

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All I know so far is that the battery saver relay is relay number K115 on the electrical diagram.

We just need to figure out the location of K115.

The consensus seems to be that it's under the hood in the CJB, and that's what the one diagram and other posters seem to indicate.



Well, I'm confused.

The relays I can ID don't seem to match the manual diagrams for location.
 

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Open the car door so the interior lights are on. Pull relays until they go out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
Open the car door so the interior lights are on. Pull relays until they go out.
[/b]

Is your thinking that FUSE 26 is for the interior lights and that the relay feeds the power to the fuse? If that's the case how would we know that it wasn't the ACCESSORY relay in front of the BATTERY SAVER RELAY that I pulled?

Also is CJB the same as PDB?

Is it slang for what FORD calls PDB? Just wanted to ask the question now before I go pulling FUSES.

Also, btw, no incidents since the posting a couple of nights ago... so go figure. The gremlin knows that TCCA is on to him!
 

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If the emergency brakes won't hold it in gear at idle speed, then it sounds like it needs to be adjusted, or maybe the rear brake shoes need adjusting some.

You could try backing up & smartly applying the brakes several times & see if the rear brake adjusters will tighten up the rear shoes enough to help.

When you get the emergency brake adjusted so they'll hold, chock all the wheels with a brick, or have someone ride the brakes, while you do the in gear "wiggle" test, on all your suspect leads & electrical connectors.

Have you had the computer scanned for trouble codes lately????
 

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IDK. Seems to me that after 4 pages I would have either just replaced all the relays (I have some for $2 each) or taken it to a shop.......
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
If the emergency brakes won't hold it in gear at idle speed, then it sounds like it needs to be adjusted, or maybe the rear brake shoes need adjusting some.

You could try backing up & smartly applying the brakes several times & see if the rear brake adjusters will tighten up the rear shoes enough to help.

When you get the emergency brake adjusted so they'll hold, chock all the wheels with a brick, or have someone ride the brakes, while you do the in gear "wiggle" test, on all your suspect leads & electrical connectors.

Have you had the computer scanned for trouble codes lately????
[/b]

PawPaw, I haven't had the computer scanned b/c I have my own. It's not the most expensive one but it will read and reset CEL codes. Unless this is something that you don't think is storing as a CEL. How would I have the codes read then? My impression of the readers was that the more money ones just really told you a bit more so you didn't have to look up codes. If there is a reader, how would I know if a mechanic read it that he was using the right type? The last thing I would hate is to take it somewhere, have them hook up a read that I already have, it report no codes, and I'm out $75-100.

Also, I think we are trying to narrow down the Battery Saver Relay from the last few posts. Any ideas since I posted last?

IDK. Seems to me that after 4 pages I would have either just replaced all the relays (I have some for $2 each) or taken it to a shop.......
[/b]
Well true, could have replaced all the relays, but when I got them they were like $8 a pop and the ones in the passenger control box are a PITA to get to. Also, why take it to a shop when ALL mechanics in this area won't test the car properly unless the thing is acting up?

I could give the car to them for a week, it never happen (hasn't happened in a day and a half now) and be out not only the car but several hundred dollars for nothing.

The thing is, I'm 26 and this car could just drop dead or continue to live on. But I've been through hell with other mechanics before and jobs like this will get very pricey very quickly.

But that isn't here or there. What did you think of my reply to your Relay pulling theory?


Besides, this will be one of the most detailed threads for others that have this problem :)
 

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Yes it could be either relay. Replace them both. You do not need special relays, I believe these are the common Bosch square type. They are cheaper if you look around for fog light relays.
 
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