[Dubeckyj]

So dyno's done. I got a staggering 143.6 hp @ 4600 RPM, and 179.2 lbs-ft @ 3800. That's extremely close to FFVulcanPowah's dyno pull on a significantly less-modified engine. My tuner had global timing set to 23 degrees, and refused to increase it because he didn't want to blow up my car, but he let me push it up to an extra 4 on the SCT X3, which I did the second I got home. It's not pinging, which is a good sign, and it's significantly better. Also, I'm concerned that my max power is at 4600 RPM, versus the usual ~5300. The valve-springs are new and stiff, so there's no issues with valve-float. This makes me think intake restriction somewhere. Or exhaust. I'm not stopping until I reach 190 at the wheels.

Think a tranny rebuild will reduce the power loss by a couple %?

 

[s2knott]

Just go with a 50 shot of nitrous, because it's gunna take alot to get a Vulcan near 200whp

 

[Dubeckyj]

Just go with a 50 shot of nitrous, because it's gunna take alot to get a Vulcan near 200whp

All throttle, no bottle. I'm trying to stay away from FI as long as I can, too. I'll turbo it if I have to, but I'd rather get it as far as I can N/A first. THEN turbo it and burn through AX4S's.

 

[jw89sho]

Then you build an AX4N from a SHO...Add Quaife or Torsen LSD...

 

[Dubeckyj]

Then you build an AX4N from a SHO...Add Quaife or Torsen LSD...

An AX4N from a SHO won't bolt up to my vulcan. Also, my PCM won't like an AX4N.

 

[spock power]

Nice so that's roughly 20hp-25tq over stock, not bad. You can build an ax4s to be fairly strong or if it's possible to get it tuned to work with an ax4n from a 2003 up vulcan that might be an option.

 

[Dubeckyj]

Nice so that's roughly 20hp-25tq over stock, not bad. You can build an ax4s to be fairly strong or if it's possible to get it tuned to work with an ax4n from a 2003 up vulcan that might be an option.

I'd need a PCM out of the AX4N vulcan donor car, which the dyno tune wouldn't easily transfer to. Also, while not regarded as the best transmissions, my 190k AX4S is holding up alright.

Also, with SHO's dynoing in the 190 horse range, and 'tecs laying down 160-170, our transmission loss is acceptably within the 20-25% range. That gives me 26-33hp over stock, with an extra 45-54 lbs-ft of torque. Not a staggering difference, but I'm going to be picky after all this effort.

Not to mention you could have a manual car with 170 hp laying down 140 at the wheels, against an automatic car with 210 hp putting down 140 at the wheels through some cruel twist of fate. In the end, both are only getting 140 usable horsepower, so I don't want to waste my time estimating what I have at the crank. I could have a super motor with 2,000 hp, and I don't know it, because sludged up fluid in my tranny has given me a dyno reading of 143.

 

[darkstallion440]

lets think about that for a second.......2000 hp vulcan.....would be nice lol! :blah:

 

[Dubeckyj]

lets think about that for a second.......2000 hp vulcan.....would be nice lol! :blah:

We only need 968 bhp to be the same power to weight ratio as the Bugatti Veyron Super Sport.

 

[egiroux]

Not to ba a party pooper, but if you want 200 HP why not just get a car with a Duratec in it? You'll also get the AX4N. Most people say it's difficult(=expensive) to get more power from a Vulcan.

 

[Dubeckyj]

Not to ba a party pooper, but if you want 200 HP why not just get a car with a Duratec in it? You'll also get the AX4N. Most people say it's difficult(=expensive) to get more power from a Vulcan.

Stroker kit & bigger cam, and I'm there. I just don't want to do that yet. V8 SHO's and 'tecs are garbage off the line, because they have low torque, and they get it at higher RPMs than the vulcan. The whole point of this build is so I can go to the track, and hopefully get people who put a lot of work into their "fast" cars to look upon their objects of obsession with shame, because their car lost to a Mercury Sable. I need torque for that.

Also, 200 hp is just a goal, because it's the 'tec's number. After I reach 200, my next goal is 235 (understandably), and after that, I want to see how high I can go. Honestly, if the idiot tuner I went to would properly adjust the timing, and I clear up the intake restriction, I can see me sitting at a pretty 160 to the wheels, or around 200 bhp.

 

[19065]

If you have a spare car I would take the upper end apart, and clean out the carbon buildup, when I did a head gasket you would've sworn I was dumping fuel in from the start of the intake.

Then go on to replacing the throttle body, and using a cold air intake with a cone filter. not only will it sound awesome, but it'll remove any chances of restriction.

As for exhaust I've heard anything larger than 2.5 in piping requires a re-tune. I would say to use three inch and re-tune it. Remove the third cat (if you can avoid legal issues), port and polish headers and wrap the exhaust system in header tape to reduce under-hood temps and increase your exhausts flow and you should be good. Unless you want to go as far as custom performance headers. I would say to remove all three cats or drill out their insides but itd be illegal for street use.

That'll solve intake and exhaust

Now it gets difficult, expensive, and one of a kind

1.8:1 rocker arms to start, and a custom cam if necessary, then have a custom stroker kit made and maybe some higher compression pistons, along with other stronger internals (connecting rods, valves, etc.). after all that you should be able to reach 200 hp without any difficulty, even 235 hp.

If more power is necessary (which it always is), Turbo, Nitrous, and Superchargers are your friend (see why I said beef up the internals). Nitrous and a rear mount turbo, and over 300 hp should be attainable. Can the trans handle it? Doubt it

Just what Ive always wanted to do to mine, in that order to create power without destroying something else (other than that trans)

 

[Dubeckyj]

If you have a spare car I would take the upper end apart, and clean out the carbon buildup, when I did a head gasket you would've sworn I was dumping fuel in from the start of the intake.

Then go on to replacing the throttle body, and using a cold air intake with a cone filter. not only will it sound awesome, but it'll remove any chances of restriction.

As for exhaust I've heard anything larger than 2.5 in piping requires a re-tune. I would say to use three inch and re-tune it. Remove the third cat (if you can avoid legal issues), port and polish headers and wrap the exhaust system in header tape to reduce under-hood temps and increase your exhausts flow and you should be good. Unless you want to go as far as custom performance headers. I would say to remove all three cats or drill out their insides but itd be illegal for street use.

That'll solve intake and exhaust

Now it gets difficult, expensive, and one of a kind

1.8:1 rocker arms to start, and a custom cam if necessary, then have a custom stroker kit made and maybe some higher compression pistons, along with other stronger internals (connecting rods, valves, etc.). after all that you should be able to reach 200 hp without any difficulty, even 235 hp.

If more power is necessary (which it always is), Turbo, Nitrous, and Superchargers are your friend (see why I said beef up the internals). Nitrous and a rear mount turbo, and over 300 hp should be attainable. Can the trans handle it? Doubt it

Just what Ive always wanted to do to mine, in that order to create power without destroying something else (other than that trans)

Read up on the project. Light porting intake side with heavy porting exhaust side with light polishing on the exhaust. Polished combustion chambers with all sharp edges removed (other than the walls) to greatly reduce the probability of pre-ignition. The heads were milled down .030" which would roughly take compression up to 9.8 with the material taken out of the chambers.

I threw .070" oversized intake valves with .120" oversized exhaust, both stainless, swirl polished on the intake. 3-angle valve grind on those to optimize flow (And get a good seal). And I already have 1.8:1 roller rockers. Ported out the lower intake manifold, and I have the composite UIM off a '01. 60mm throttle body, with custom adapter (made of composite, so the taper is rough. Thinking that rough taper is disrupting airflow at full-throttle, so that's why I want to make a new one out of aluminum). MAF from a 'tec. 24# injectors. Probably some other stuff.

It's a '97, so it only has two cats. I'm thinking of the SHOsource magnaflow y-pipe to help cut down that back-pressure. The exhaust manifolds don't actually need any porting. This will actually decrease the gas velocity, and hurt performance. Talk to FFVulcanPowah, Ford did the exhaust right on these cars. I'm thinking just the standard 3" aluminum pipe intake to a cone filter in the fender, with the magnaflow y-pipe cut at the tailpipe flange to go to true 2" duals all the way back, with a proper TB adapter, and I'm there. Or almost. I just need the timing thing sorted out, and I'm laughing.

 

[JW657]

I've always felt it would be best to swap a 3.8 into the Taurus for power. No replacement for displacement. You'd get 200HP (230 tq!) if you manage to install a Windstar engine in the Taurus. It has somewhat of an aftermarket thanks to the Mustang and it should fit fairly easily since I don't believe the mount points changed after the 95 Taurus, so it's a matter of transferring the guts of a Windstar into a Taurus, not a hard proposition really.

Basic plan:

Buy same year part van with good drive train
Remove Taurus subframe
Transfer engine and transmission from Windstar onto subframe and reinstall
Fabricate and make whatever won't fit or work under the Taurus hood from the Windstar.
Use Windstar computer and hack wiring together.

The blocks can take more than 600HP according to mustang owners, there's tons of power potential if you can keep the tranny from blowing. Screw the Vulcan. It should fit, a 4.6 Mod will fit in there, so anything will.

/ off topic

 

[spock power]

All you need to do for the exhaust is find a gen4 at the wreckers to take one off of, they got 2.25" mandrel bent which is perfect for the vulcan. No need for headers or porting manifolds, some of the probe guys are using gen4 front manifolds(bank2) as headers. The magnaflow y-pipe is good I have one and the car feels stronger with it and doesn't gear down on some hills it used to anymore.

 

[19065]

Read up on the project. Light porting intake side with heavy porting exhaust side with light polishing on the exhaust. Polished combustion chambers with all sharp edges removed (other than the walls) to greatly reduce the probability of pre-ignition. The heads were milled down .030" which would roughly take compression up to 9.8 with the material taken out of the chambers.

I threw .070" oversized intake valves with .120" oversized exhaust, both stainless, swirl polished on the intake. 3-angle valve grind on those to optimize flow (And get a good seal). And I already have 1.8:1 roller rockers. Ported out the lower intake manifold, and I have the composite UIM off a '01. 60mm throttle body, with custom adapter (made of composite, so the taper is rough. Thinking that rough taper is disrupting airflow at full-throttle, so that's why I want to make a new one out of aluminum). MAF from a 'tec. 24# injectors. Probably some other stuff.

It's a '97, so it only has two cats. I'm thinking of the SHOsource magnaflow y-pipe to help cut down that back-pressure. The exhaust manifolds don't actually need any porting. This will actually decrease the gas velocity, and hurt performance. Talk to FFVulcanPowah, Ford did the exhaust right on these cars. I'm thinking just the standard 3" aluminum pipe intake to a cone filter in the fender, with the magnaflow y-pipe cut at the tailpipe flange to go to true 2" duals all the way back, with a proper TB adapter, and I'm there. Or almost. I just need the timing thing sorted out, and I'm laughing.

All I have to say is hot d..n, and sorry for assuming you weren't already busy with this project, my apologies.

I agree on the tb spacer, and I still think header tape on the exhaust wouldnt hurt. The hotter the gas, the faster it'll get out.

I guess after that its turbo time, which I wish I could help with, but Im not too knowledgable.

 

[jedhead]

I'd need a PCM out of the AX4N vulcan donor car, which the dyno tune wouldn't easily transfer to. Also, while not regarded as the best transmissions, my 190k AX4N is holding up alright.

Also, with SHO's dynoing in the 190 horse range, and 'tecs laying down 160-170, our transmission loss is acceptably within the 20-25% range. That gives me 26-33hp over stock, with an extra 45-54 lbs-ft of torque. Not a staggering difference, but I'm going to be picky after all this effort.

Not to mention you could have a manual car with 170 hp laying down 140 at the wheels, against an automatic car with 210 hp putting down 140 at the wheels through some cruel twist of fate. In the end, both are only getting 140 usable horsepower, so I don't want to waste my time estimating what I have at the crank. I could have a super motor with 2,000 hp, and I don't know it, because sludged up fluid in my tranny has given me a dyno reading of 143.

Big advantage to the SHO motors are the twin tq peaks so you have a wide power band. My engine has over 185ft-lbs of torque from 2200-6200 rpm a 4000 rpm power band. That power band is what make the SHO go.

Torque peaks at 2900 and 4900 rpm:

Stock with some bolt-ons and tune.

Bob

 

[Dubeckyj]

Big advantage to the SHO motors are the twin tq peaks so you have a wide power band. My engine has over 185ft-lbs of torque from 2200-6200 rpm a 4000 rpm power band. That power band is what make the SHO go.

Torque peaks at 2900 and 4900 rpm:

Stock with some bolt-ons and tune.

Bob

Yes, but your engine peaks over 6k RPM. My peak right now is at 4600. We have similar hp and lbs-ft at my peaks, though you have more torque and horsepower further on. Coming from a motor that gets 220 hp stock, I'd say I'm still doing well.