Actually, you and Jeramie are only partially correct.Originally posted by silvapain+Apr 7 2004, 10:18 AM-->QUOTE (silvapain @ Apr 7 2004, 10:18 AM)<!--QuoteBegin-95SEThe AX4S failures were because of an Aluminum clutch piston, IIRC. In general, most ATX's fail because of too much heat, derived from the programming. To get smoother shifts, the EEC has the torue convertor slowly engage after a shift. This creates alot of heat. Having a stacked plate trans cooler, and reprogramming the EEC will greatly extend the life of the tranny.@Apr 6 2004, 01:23 AM
I belive that 90% of the FWD trans failure is due to the factory shift programming.
What stall speed torque convertor are you planning on using?[/b]
There are two popular failure modes for the AXOD family, both of which are correctable with new parts and a full and proper Transgo kit installation.
The first mode is valve body/line pressure related and often aggrevated by the "factory tranny programming". The overtly-long shifts commanded from the stock EEC line pressure tables and adder functions are what give you that "soft and comfortable" shift feel - they also cause excessive and premature clutch material wear and heat build-up in the clutch assemblies. Combine this with a weak 1-2 aluminum forward clutch piston (which can crack) and other valve body inefficiencies and you can end up with bumps, slides, harsh shifts, lost gears, kickdown runaways, nuetral drops from a stop and failure for the tranny to shift from one gear to the next at WOT, etc.
The second failure mode common to the AXOD family is planetary failure due to lack of sufficient lubrication to the planetary gearset and related components. A full and proper installation of a TransGo kit as previously noted will correct this situation and allow a lot more fluid in to directly lubricate the planetary gearset where it's needed instead of it being flung around places where it's not, like Ford gave us from the factory. Planetary cracking and failure due to insufficient lube is what killed the "factory upgraded" '95 ATX in my SHO.
I do think you're on a good track here, Jeramie, but I wouldn't stop at taking your SLO core up to "just" SHO standards, especially with the kind of power that you'll be making. Have a look-see at this rebuild info that I've been passing around the SHOforum, et al. and see if you can make use of any of it. Going with harder steels, better clutch materials (Borg-Warner or kevlar-type clutches and bands are great here) and better-quality gearsets will net you the best result when combined with a full TransGo calibration and upgrade, IMO.
Last but not least, best of luck on the upgrade. Sounds like a kick-a$$ project!