Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
111 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Well, I took the 04 Vulcan SE to the ford garage today. And got some bad news.

They told me the compression on cylinder 2 and 5 were pretty much nill. They said the compression on 6, 4, 3, and 1 were all around 150-160 lbs. 5 was at 50 lbs, and 2 was less than that. :(

They informed me that I would probably have to get a new motor. But I'm not so sure....

The car runs perfectly fine! most of the time. At highway speeds, only on a long pull uphill, it will flash the check engine light at me and start bucking and sputtering. If its anything less than 50 mph, through town, just cruising around and so on, it runs PERFECT. No knocking, no bucking, no stalling at redlights and stop signs, nothing.

I don't get it. Part of me really doesnt believe (or doesnt WANT to believe) that I need a new motor. I'm not sure what could be the problem though.

The codes that showed up before I took it to Ford were p300 (random cylinder misfire) p302 (cylinder 2 misfire) and p305 (cylinder 5 misfire). The plugs and wires were changed. The coil-pack was changed.

If any of you taurus gurus could shed some light on this mystery, I would weep tears of joy. :unsure:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
448 Posts
Well your codes are consistent with the low compression reading. I assume ford dealer isn't lying about the low compression reading. So here's your options. First you can do a leak down test to see exactly why the engine has low compression. It could be burnt valves, bad rings, bad headgasket (unlikely), and more. If it's something to do with the head/valve, you can fix it. The OHV engine is rather easy to do this on because there's no need for removing timing chains and so on. In fact, if i'm not mistaken, this could be bad valve seats which are not too hard to deal with.

Now depending on what the problem is, it COULD be cheaper to simply replace the engine. Because you have low compression in two cylinders on DIFFERENT banks, you would likely have to service both heads. That could be more expensive in labor. Because these engines don't die, there's a surplus of low milage engines in junk yards for peanuts. check out car-part.com for used engines in your area. You can often get a 80K engine for like 300 bucks.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,228 Posts
QUOTE (yiranhu @ Apr 13 2010, 07:40 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=797256
Well your codes are consistent with the low compression reading. I assume ford dealer isn't lying about the low compression reading. So here's your options. First you can do a leak down test to see exactly why the engine has low compression. It could be burnt valves, bad rings, bad headgasket (unlikely), and more. If it's something to do with the head/valve, you can fix it. The OHV engine is rather easy to do this on because there's no need for removing timing chains and so on. In fact, if i'm not mistaken, this could be bad valve seats which are not too hard to deal with.

Now depending on what the problem is, it COULD be cheaper to simply replace the engine. Because you have low compression in two cylinders on DIFFERENT banks, you would likely have to service both heads. That could be more expensive in labor. Because these engines don't die, there's a surplus of low milage engines in junk yards for peanuts. check out car-part.com for used engines in your area. You can often get a 80K engine for like 300 bucks.[/b]
:werd: Besides that, eBay Motors or this forum's For Sale section have Vulcan engines for sale more often than not.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
111 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Well, my hard-headedness got the best of me today. Drove the car to work 65 miles. Ran great. Only sputtered once on a hill-climb.

This is why I am still wondering if it is a motor problem. If I had no compression on 2 cylinders, I would feel it all the time. Not just when the perfect conditions arise. It makes no sense. It still pulls strong if I get a little itch in my foot after a red light. Only after I reach speeds of over 55-60 on a long hill is when it does it. But it goes away after a minute or so and goes back to normal. I am convinced I am not going to give up on this problem. :huh:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
429 Posts
QUOTE (jack47904 @ Apr 14 2010, 10:54 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=797405
Well, my hard-headedness got the best of me today. Drove the car to work 65 miles. Ran great. Only sputtered once on a hill-climb.

This is why I am still wondering if it is a motor problem. If I had no compression on 2 cylinders, I would feel it all the time. Not just when the perfect conditions arise. It makes no sense. It still pulls strong if I get a little itch in my foot after a red light. Only after I reach speeds of over 55-60 on a long hill is when it does it. But it goes away after a minute or so and goes back to normal. I am convinced I am not going to give up on this problem. :huh:[/b]
This will sound strange, but what oil are you using? Maybe a heavier oil will help with the issue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,392 Posts
Have the leak down test done to see what is really wrong. Sounds like rebuilt heads to me, if the car and rest of the engine are in good shape, why not? Rebuilt heads are pretty cheap for the Vulcan engines, and they're not very hard to put on, you could make it a weekend project, or two weekend project, depending on your level of skill. But get the leakdown test done before going further. I wouldn't drive it like this for too long, I'd think one could cause damage to the bottom end if let go for too long. In the meantime, I'd put a can of BG oil treatment in there to help with the compression issue, or even 10w-40 oil for now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
832 Posts
A leak down test is not only suggested, but absolutely necessary to find the problem. If it turns out to be a top end problem, which most likely it is, here's my recommendation; go to a junk yard and pull the heads off an engine. Take them to a machine shop have the springs replaced and 3 angle valve job done. Have the heads ported. Switch them with the heads in your car, shouldn't take more than a day. Maybe 2 days. Use new head bolts and all new gaskets. Then have the problem with your heads repaired and either sell the heads or keep them as extras, just in case.
If it turns out to be leaking through the cylinder, get a new, or new to you, engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
111 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Well, after taking it back to the dealership where I got the car, they are replacing the motor as we speak. Its still under warranty. So I get a 30000 mile vulcan for free!

In the meantime, I have been riding around in a Kia Rio rental car. Worthless piece of junk. You guys think the vulcan cant get out of its own way.... The 1.6 4 banger in the tiny Kia is at least TEN times worse. But I must say, filling the gas tank only costs 30 bucks on empty and I can get to work and back (60 miles away) about 3 times on a tank (plus misc running around town). It has crank windows, manual locks, a slushy 4 speed automatic trans, but the radio is wonderful. 220ish channels of Serius sat. radio. And a good speaker system also...

Im rambling. sorry. :rolleyes2:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
111 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
QUOTE (Jeremiah @ Apr 14 2010, 01:18 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=797408
This will sound strange, but what oil are you using? Maybe a heavier oil will help with the issue.[/b]
Actually a friend of mine asked the same thing. The day before I took it to the dealership, I brought him with me (hes a mechanic) to show him the problem. Well, instead of the usual thing happening (the knocking and bucking going uphill on a pull at highway speeds) the car completely lost all power and started knocking violently. He said it sounded and acted EXACTLY like his civic did before it blew. And it blew cause of low oil. He said the oil level was soo low in his civic that the speed he was going brought all the remaining oil up to the top-end of the engine and the bottom end eventually failed. After the little run up the freeway we pulled off and waited for a long while. Then checked the oil. The oil level was fine! He was completely confused, but I think he might have been onto something. I dunno. :huh:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,392 Posts
Just drive very carefully in the little Rio, if you get hit by a large car, your done for. That, and many other things are why I bought the Taurus used instead of a new Accent. You should find out what caused your engine to fail, as the Vulcans are pretty bullet proof engines. I'm way past warranty coverage on mine, almost 100k!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
832 Posts
Gotta love warrenfree. I, however, would not let the dealer put a used part in my car. You better be getting a good warranty on that engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
111 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
:lol2: yup a good warranty on this engine too goodbrosUIT.

Austex04: I know what you mean about the vulcan. I have never heard of one failing before. My family has owned quite a few. Dad owned a 3.0 ranger, sister owned a probe, brother owned 2 vulcan sables and mom owned one too. None of them ever failed. It would just be my luck that mine kicked the bucket... :angry:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
809 Posts
:p


It was all that street racing, kickin the buts of all those fart can vtec civics out there! ! :rofl2:

That my friend is totally gangster!! B)

Good luck with your new/used engine and the warranty!!
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top