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I have not had any issues with my Ax4N (fingers crossed it stays like that)

I have used LubeGuard on an AXODE and it smoothed out harsh shifts. I would assume it could help as well on he AX4N. It has been recommended by some OEM's like SAAB and Volvo. I don't know if you can say that about Lucas?
 

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Thanks for sharing this information.
Another thing I noticed is the inconsistency of its overall performance. Sometimes this Sable runs
REALLY damned smooth. You cannot even feel there are gears in the transmission. You just slightly
press the gas pedal and you can feel a strong push from your back. But other times, you have to
press really hard and still the car moves very reluctantly. I cannot attribute this to weather, temperature, humidity
or driving styles, since it happened just from day to day in the same season.
^This. Does anyone else have this issue? Or is it even an issue? Sometimes I can be very light on the gas and it shifts without me knowing it. Other times I have to be harder and I can feel every shift. :dunno:
 

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LOL been through this with the AX4N in the forum very recently as to where it fits by year .

I have had a number of Taurus's's's's's (lol) from brand new to used, probably most of them AX4N except the new 92 POS that did one tranny in under warranty and the the replacement about to go when I sold it in 96. Not one had a decent 1-2 shift except the 89 and the 92.

Odd but the current 99 since I reset the EEC awhile back seems to 1-2 much better even if I get on it(not to the floor afraid of picking up pieces). Someone posted something about re-teaching the EEC, I don't know if that is even possible.

The reverse slam is most likely as someone said on start up let the RPM drop down to 900-1000 I never get a reverse slam.
 

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LOL been through this with the AX4N in the forum very recently as to where it fits by year .

I have had a number of Taurus's's's's's (lol) from brand new to used, probably most of them AX4N except the new 92 POS that did one tranny in under warranty and the the replacement about to go when I sold it in 96. Not one had a decent 1-2 shift except the 89 and the 92.

Odd but the current 99 since I reset the EEC awhile back seems to 1-2 much better even if I get on it(not to the floor afraid of picking up pieces). Someone posted something about re-teaching the EEC, I don't know if that is even possible.

The reverse slam is most likely as someone said on start up let the RPM drop down to 900-1000 I never get a reverse slam.
I never drive it cold. Even after the transmission is warmed up it does it. It's more of a loud "thud" and seems to vibrate a bit while in reverse.
How do you reset the EEC?
 

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If you wish to try this, take off the negative battery terminal for about 10 minutes, then put it back on. It clears everything in the EEC including locked in errors.
Can;t say it will help with your reverse, seems like my 1-2 has improved but I wouldn't stake my life on it :unsure:

. Apparently I read the tranny relearns from the EEC and visa versa.
 

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AX4**** is no better:

a) BANG: when u put from Drive to Reverse

1 -> 2 shift is delayed and jerky. If you start from stop as a grandma, RPMs around 1600 - 1700, the
1 to 2 shift jerk is little softer. Anything abobe 2k RPM is jerky.

c). if you pay attention, you can always feel the 2 -> 1 down-shift.
My 2002 Taurus does exactly that, reverse to drive it makes a hard sound and it takes time to shift from 1st to 2nd the rpm go high but then it works perfectly but it scares me.. Is this very bad?
 

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Sorry for hijacking the thread, but I have a question regarding whether or not a 99 'tec has a factory trans cooler. thanks.
 

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Sorry for hijacking the thread, but I have a question regarding whether or not a 99 'tec has a factory trans cooler. thanks.
Look under the front bumper, you'll find one or two tubes across the bottom of the rad. Usually one PS and one tranny. Tranny will have fins.

If you want to upgrade and do pick a part JY, find a Lin Cont, they have double tranny tubes and single PS all finned. Looks to be easy install.

-chart-
 

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I want to come back and report my experience... Since I bought the car, the AX4N/4F50N transmission had some issues when downshifting from 2nd to 1st, or when from rolling with 30mph with foot off gas, I would press the gas pedal just a tad too much. In those instances, it would feel like "kick". I had read around here that maybe the Transmission Output Sensor (VSS) needs to be replaced, but my speed gauge was just fine.
I decided to add Lubegard Platinum in it ($13 from O'Reilly). In a week the hard shifts disappeared. Now, after 2 months it shifts perfectly.

I usually don't put too much hope on "snake oils", but this time it really worked. YMMV.

PS: I liked their statement:

"Enhances DEXRON® III, VI/MERCON® V ATF to perform like a highly friction modified ATF, such as:
– Honda® Genuine ATF
– Toyota® Type T/TII/TIV
– Mopar® ATF + 3® (7176)
– Mopar® ATF +4® (9602)
– And all other highly friction modified ATF's"
 

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I want to come back and report my experience... Since I bought the car, the AX4N/4F50N transmission had some issues when downshifting from 2nd to 1st, or when from rolling with 30mph with foot off gas, I would press the gas pedal just a tad too much. In those instances, it would feel like "kick". I had read around here that maybe the Transmission Output Sensor (VSS) needs to be replaced, but my speed gauge was just fine.
I decided to add Lubegard Platinum in it ($13 from O'Reilly). In a week the hard shifts disappeared. Now, after 2 months it shifts perfectly.

I usually don't put too much hope on "snake oils", but this time it really worked. YMMV.

PS: I liked their statement:

"Enhances DEXRON® III, VI/MERCON® V ATF to perform like a highly friction modified ATF, such as:
– Honda® Genuine ATF
– Toyota® Type T/TII/TIV
– Mopar® ATF + 3® (7176)
– Mopar® ATF +4® (9602)
– And all other highly friction modified ATF's"
Don't forget it's a non synchronized transmission. It slaps around. Technically, the harsher the shift feels, the better the engagement actually is. Most automatics are designed to slip a little when the clutches meet for shifting "feel". All friction modifiers like Lube Guard do is make the clutches slip more.
 

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Mine's been as cranky as an old lady lately, it's not liking this cold.
 

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Don't forget it's a non synchronized transmission. It slaps around. Technically, the harsher the shift feels, the better the engagement actually is. Most automatics are designed to slip a little when the clutches meet for shifting "feel". All friction modifiers like Lube Guard do is make the clutches slip more.
It was not "firm" shifting. It was a shock in engaging. I had to feather it in when I was accelerating from rolling. In stop and go traffic it was very often.
Now it shifts like my other two AT cars - Explorer V8 (4R70W transmission) and Sonata (Mitsubishi transmission).
 

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It was not "firm" shifting. It was a shock in engaging. I had to feather it in when I was accelerating from rolling. In stop and go traffic it was very often.
Now it shifts like my other two AT cars - Explorer V8 (4R70W transmission) and Sonata (Mitsubishi transmission).
What you're describing is not necessarily abnormal. #JustAX4NThings

I can get something similar to a "shock" if I'm coasting in third gear, let off the gas, and then re-engage throttle.

Now as I've said before, I'm not an AT guy, but "magic in a bottle" can only do so many things given it's just modifying the friction coefficient of the fluid. I don't buy the ones that claim to "de-varnish", but I guess it's not impossible or anything.

I'm glad it helped smooth things out for you though. I'll consider following suit if I ever encounter a similar situation where it's constantly slamming.
 

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Maybe my kick it was the third to first or second... but I don't think is normal. I had another AX4N before and it didn't do it. Surely that one it still died at 200k miles :)
Dumping gears with so much impact will damage other internals, first to come in mind is the Torque Converter.

Another difference that I found is in gearing. My ex-Sable Duratec/AX4N '96 had a different gearing (different final drive), it was feeling more "sporty" in driving. The '01 Sable 4F50N jumps ASAP in 4th gear. Since the difference between the 3rd and 4th is very big in rpm's it feels more sluggish (compared with my ex '96).
AX4N Final Drive - 30T (95-up)
4F50N, Final Drive - 29T (01-up)
 

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Gearing was changed in '98, not '01. And the 94-95 AX4N's were geared like the AX4S as they were attached to a Vulcan.
 

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Maybe my kick it was the third to first or second... but I don't think is normal. I had another AX4N before and it didn't do it. Surely that one it still died at 200k miles :)
Dumping gears with so much impact will damage other internals, first to come in mind is the Torque Converter.

Another difference that I found is in gearing. My ex-Sable Duratec/AX4N '96 had a different gearing (different final drive), it was feeling more "sporty" in driving. The '01 Sable 4F50N jumps ASAP in 4th gear. Since the difference between the 3rd and 4th is very big in rpm's it feels more sluggish (compared with my ex '96).
AX4N Final Drive - 30T (95-up)
4F50N, Final Drive - 29T (01-up)
Yeah, I hate that lockup absolutely neuters power. Makes pulling onto the highway a chore unless you really goose it to prevent lockup until 60mph or so. If you leave it in regular "D", it pulls like its possessed. I merged onto a highway once and was wondering why I had so much power, forgot I left it in that gear, lol.

But yeah it probably wasn't normal. Mine shifts pretty smoothly 99% of the time. Sometimes you can feel the engagement being "slappy" is how I would describe it, but it never feels like an outright slam shift or shock.
 

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With the '96 I never felt the need for turning the "OD" off. With the '01, I drive daily trough a tunnel - on the "up" incline (it's loong) I am shifting in "D", because it is so annoying no to have 'umpf' - I have slow at bottom of ramp to moderate-high speed at top (I know, stupid people, that's how they drive, scared of being under water I guess) .
 
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