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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all.

I recently put ALSFB's on my car, along with 24" from & 26" rear bars. I replaced all the stab links while I was there. Afterwards, I'm hearing this awful rattling whenever I go over bumps like the front subframe is loose. The bushings are at 90 ft-lbs.

I had the subframe bushings on my Sable that bit it, and drove around with them for a while, so I know they aren't the cause. I made sure the swaybar bolts were snug, and I torqued the stab links as hard as I could, and then left the gun on them for a couple seconds for good measure (hoping it didn't just spin in the bushing). But I still hear the rattling. I checked the tie rods, but they're fine. I know the ball joints are bad, but I didn't think they'd rattle. Maybe because of the more severe suspension linkage?

I thought maybe I bought a stab link that was junk out of the factory line, but I thought they clunk, not rattle.

To help narrow it down: I don't hear it when I accelerate (soft nor hard), I don't hear it when I brake (soft nor hard) and I don't hear it when I turn (soft nor hard). I don't hear it when I go over slow, sweeping dips or hills, but only sharp inconsistencies in the road. Can anybody think of any other culprits?

Thanks!
 

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Sounds like my car, even with regular bushings. I was told I had "loose ball joints", causing the front suspension rattle/knock. It sounds like the front suspension is being dribbled like a basketball on really sharp inconsistencies right?

Does it sound like this:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
YES! So it is balljoints? It's hard to enjoy the sporty feel of a car when you think it's going to detach and roll. Thanks!
 

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I vote for ball joints. Mine was sounding like that with them worn.
If you replace them pay attantion if the new ones require lubing before installing (if they have lube fittings in the bag don't throw them away).
 

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YES! So it is balljoints? It's hard to enjoy the sporty feel of a car when you think it's going to detach and roll. Thanks!
Considering my car has been making that noise for the past oh 45k miles...right after I had them replaced...could be. Going to try to get mine replaced in September, but need to figure out a good brand. The raybestos professionals are what's on there now, and they clearly suck. The car originally have Motorcraft factory ones that were 8-9 years old, boots were split. These have made noise from the get-go.

I may go back to Motorcraft, but I noticed that later built 2003s and newer have a different ball joint, so I'm curious about that...
 

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Hey all.

I recently put ALSFB's on my car, along with 24" from & 26" rear bars. I replaced all the stab links while I was there. Afterwards, I'm hearing this awful rattling whenever I go over bumps like the front subframe is loose. The bushings are at 90 ft-lbs.

I had the subframe bushings on my Sable that bit it, and drove around with them for a while, so I know they aren't the cause. I made sure the swaybar bolts were snug, and I torqued the stab links as hard as I could, and then left the gun on them for a couple seconds for good measure (hoping it didn't just spin in the bushing). But I still hear the rattling. I checked the tie rods, but they're fine. I know the ball joints are bad, but I didn't think they'd rattle. Maybe because of the more severe suspension linkage?

I thought maybe I bought a stab link that was junk out of the factory line, but I thought they clunk, not rattle.

To help narrow it down: I don't hear it when I accelerate (soft nor hard), I don't hear it when I brake (soft nor hard) and I don't hear it when I turn (soft nor hard). I don't hear it when I go over slow, sweeping dips or hills, but only sharp inconsistencies in the road. Can anybody think of any other culprits?

Thanks!
Do many sue the ALSFB are tight as I have heard of them backing off if not tight. You may want to try going tighter then the OEM standard.

We do sell ball joints: Ingalls Front Ball Joint 96-07
 

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Ingalls or Moog
I suspect they are both made on the same manufacturing line. and are placed in different boxes.
 

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Is 90 ft-lbs enough? I know my ball joints are bad and need to be replaced soon, but because they're under load, I didn't think they'd rattle like that.
So, why would the ball joints be under load? They carry 2 axis control. Side to side, front to back. Nothing up and down, as we normally think of load.

-chart-
 

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Is 90 ft-lbs enough? I know my ball joints are bad and need to be replaced soon, but because they're under load, I didn't think they'd rattle like that.
I don't think so. I believe on the SHO Forum they have done more but I am not sure on exact numbers. Remember this is a solid bushing as opposed to a rubber one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Bushings allow deflections, I'd just call it a spacer ;)

How strong is the bolt? Can I just set my gun to it for a bit?
 

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I have mine torqued 100ft/lbs. After some driving I re-torqued the sub-frame bolts again. The several months later while I was under the car I re-checked them for fun. They were tight.
 
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