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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all - 2005 SE w/ the 3.0 Vulcan. I looked around, but couldn't find an answer to the following:

Once the bolt that holds the tensioner pulley to the spring arm is removed how does one get the pulley off - if it doesn't want to come off, that is? I pried a bit w/ a large screwdriver, but had no alternate transportation at the time so I didn't tempt fate. Car #2 is back - what kind of force shall I apply for success?

Thanks
BB
 

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Maybe try a penetrating oil like PB Blaster on where the pully bearing mounts to the tensioner arm. Then get two screwdrivers, insert one opposite the pully shaft from the other and evenly pry.

You could remove the tensioner from the engine which would make things easier.
 

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Cake monster
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Hi all - 2005 SE w/ the 3.0 Vulcan. I looked around, but couldn't find an answer to the following:

Once the bolt that holds the tensioner pulley to the spring arm is removed how does one get the pulley off - if it doesn't want to come off, that is? I pried a bit w/ a large screwdriver, but had no alternate transportation at the time so I didn't tempt fate. Car #2 is back - what kind of force shall I apply for success?

Thanks
BB
Manhandle it.
 

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Pulley

Hi all - 2005 SE w/ the 3.0 Vulcan. I looked around, but couldn't find an answer to the following:

Once the bolt that holds the tensioner pulley to the spring arm is removed how does one get the pulley off - if it doesn't want to come off, that is? I pried a bit w/ a large screwdriver, but had no alternate transportation at the time so I didn't tempt fate. Car #2 is back - what kind of force shall I apply for success?

Thanks
BB
Pic of parts. The pulley is on the aluminum shaft and is likely just corroded. Have to pry on opposite sides of the pulley so it comes off in line with the shaft.

Good luck and please report results.

-chart-
 

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Might want to replace the whole tensioner

I just did that on a Montana when the pulley locked up. Shredded the belt to less than half, and I was running the van on the Interstate at 65 MPH.
The belt wound up running on the bolt that the tensioner pulley rode on. The rest of the belt wrapped around my halfshaft and thumped everything in sight.
The spring in the tensioner also goes bad or limp after a while. Replaced both tensioners on the Vette (1 for AC the other for the rest).
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The pulley is on the aluminum shaft and is likely just corroded. Have to pry on opposite sides of the pulley so it comes off in line with the shaft.

Good luck and please report results.
Will do - thanks. I was holding that bolt and washer in my hand on Saturday. Took note of the fact that the INSIDE of the washer was corroded. I think you nailed it. I will use some PB Blaster on it also, but not directly - i'll drip some down a phillips shaft.

What size torx is needed and how difficult is it to just pull the tensioner arm?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks to you too Rick.

JW - I love cake too, and in particular the "The Distance" from Fashion Nugget. I like 3.1415 also, but usually just use 3.14.

Big Hank - been there done that - kinda. Had a plastic idler pulley melt on me mid-interstate hwy when the bearing went bad on a Ford Crapstar minivan (I almost passed on my beloved Taurus because I hated that POS soooo much). That's why I'm doing the PM now. It's just easier in my driveway with tools and jacks and beer in the fridge, etc.
 

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Bolt Size

Will do - thanks. I was holding that bolt and washer in my hand on Saturday. Took note of the fact that the INSIDE of the washer was corroded. I think you nailed it. I will use some PB Blaster on it also, but not directly - i'll drip some down a phillips shaft.

What size torx is needed and how difficult is it to just pull the tensioner arm?
Mine is a 10mm hex. If you can reach the bolt, not much issue.

On mine the A/C pipe is a bit in the way.

-chart-
 
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