Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,040 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Some more information on my on going saga of my 97 Vulcan Taurus with a 96 engine.

I replaced the 97 PCM with the 96 PCM. seems to shift better and i lost a few trouble
codes in the process. I still have the Po141. i have to figure that out.
I already swapped O2 sensors and i know the fuse for O2 power is good
My 97 has a AX4N. Not sure what the 96 had but the PCM seems to work OK.
It even seems to shift better.


This car has seemed to run hot since the swap. But NOW, with my new
Harbor freight scan gauge i can see what the temps really are at the engine.

So, the real question is: is the temp dash gauge lying, or do i still have issues?


With the AC NOT on, on a moderately hot day, the dash gauge hits the top line of the normal
mark (just before it goes into the red). Testing with the scan gauge, it shows 212/216 degrees cycling
when the dash gauge is at the top. The fan kicks in (low i assume) at this point. This seems to be the normal
engagement temp for the low speed fan , correct? Where is the dash gauge on anyone else Vulcan when the
low fan kicks on?

Now, i just fixed my AC by frankensteining the 96 wire harness with an additional ground
(the 96 harness grounded through the CCRM, 97 did not)
Filled it up with R134 and it cools good. With the AC on high, the fans stays on high from
what i have been able to determine. The dash gauge is just above 3/4 with the air on high.
So, the dash gauge shows cooler with the AC running, go figure...


This engine has not puked coolant yet and has a new radiator and water pump.
All the plugs look good. Coolant is still green. So, whats normal and what is not?

Is the dash gauge lying to me? (i swapped both coolant sensors on the motor with no change in symptoms)


To add to my glutton for punishment, i just bought a used 98 GS Vulcan for my wife.
Its in water pump surgery now with a side case of tensioner
It puked and the degasser cap came apart. Not quite sure yet what happened.
Stay tunned.......


bob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
What exactly did you do to "frankenstein" the ground to get your A/C working? I recently swapped a '96 DOHC engine into my '97 Sable, also with the DOHC engine. Of course, I used the wiring harness from the '96 and attached it to my '97 wiring on the car. My problem is that the A/C does not work now, whereas it worked fine before the swap. Hope you can help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,040 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
QUOTE (jerrysanta @ Jun 30 2009, 09:07 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=736203
What exactly did you do to "frankenstein" the ground to get your A/C working? I recently swapped a '96 DOHC engine into my '97 Sable, also with the DOHC engine. Of course, I used the wiring harness from the '96 and attached it to my '97 wiring on the car. My problem is that the A/C does not work now, whereas it worked fine before the swap. Hope you can help.[/b]
Welcome to bend over and get the bar of soap courtesy of Ford.

You will need to either get two service manuals, or a multi year DVD off Ebay or such.

Ford in there infinite wisdom, slightly changed the wire harnesses year to year.

Let me guess: you cannot code scan either?

There are two ways to fix it.

1# go to junk yard and get the proper year harness and spend tons of time switching it all over

2# Getting both service manuals and playing detective and wire splicer.

In my case, here is what i found and what i had to do.

C130 is a big multi pin connector that sits on top of the trannie. Its the main
motor harness to body harness wire connector. A 10MM screw will disconnect it.

C130 has a least a couple of wires flipped from 96 to 97. In my case with a vulcan,
pin 5 and pin 10. ( AC clutch coil and DLC connector)

I cut open the wires on the motor side of C130, and flipped the wires on pin 5 and pin 10.
This brought back my code scan, but the AC clutch was still dead.
( i soldered it and used heat shrink tubing)


Further detective work showed that in the 96, the AC clutch was grounded by the CCRM.
(clutch ground goes through C130)

In 97, it was grounded by the engine side of the wire harness. So i found the pin for the
clutch ground in the engine side of C130 (1996 harness), cut it from C130, put a spade connector on the wire,
and then grounded it to the ground lug on the fender wall by the battery.

Bingo, i had air now. (after recharge anyway)

I cannot even estimate how much time it took to figure it all out and screw it up
a number of times. Don't splice at the PCM (don't ask...)


bob
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,040 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Well just a observation update. The 98 vulcan i just got blew the cap off the degasser.
I changed the water pump and let it run with water for about 15 minutes.
During that time, i had my scan tool on it.
When it was 212, the dash temp gauge was about 1/2.
If this is normal, my dash gauge in the 97 must be out of calibration.
I have no idea if you can re callibrate them or not.
If anyone has any links on this, pass it on.

bob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Thanks for the great information on the wiring harness. A couple of weeks ago I read about switching pin numbers 5 and 10 in the C130 connector and did (took it apart and did some deft switching.) But as you noted, the A/C still did not work, but I could scan now. I didn't know about the ground wire for the A/C clutch being grounded differently in the '96 and '97 though. I do own both the "96 and '97 electrical manuals and will trace down the ground wire for the A/C clutch as you suggested. Do you happen to know if it is the dark green wire for the ground (I'll check it in my manual anyway)?

As far as your problem with your temperature gauge, I don't know. Wish I could help. Good luck with it.

Jerry
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,126 Posts
The temp sender for the gage is a stupid device and only one that hints at a true value. If it were meant to be accurately giving information it would have numbers. So either settle in to the fact that what your gage reads you now know the true value, as this will be consistent. Or get an aftermarket gage and sender. Any added resistance in the gage sender circuit will raise the reading at the gage.

The scan gage is reading the true temp as reported to the PCM by the ECT. When the AC is on the fan is on the high speed. While driving on the highway if the AC pressure gets too high it will turn on the high speed fan irregardless of vehicle speed.


Normal fan operation is ......
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,040 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
To answer the AC question, Next to the large red wire at the top of C130 is another large wire gray /white stripe.
This wire i cut out of the engine side of C130, put a spade lug on it, then made a new ground wire run over to the
drivers side fender ground lug.

As far as the temp gauge goes, yes there not calibrated or exact. But mine seems to be way far out of wack
compared to everyone elses for some reason. At least i know it my dash gauge now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
QUOTE (soundu @ Jul 3 2009, 07:54 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=736795
To answer the AC question, Next to the large red wire at the top of C130 is another large wire gray /white stripe.
This wire i cut out of the engine side of C130, put a spade lug on it, then made a new ground wire run over to the
drivers side fender ground lug.

As far as the temp gauge goes, yes there not calibrated or exact. But mine seems to be way far out of wack
compared to everyone elses for some reason. At least i know it my dash gauge now.[/b]
Thanks, I'll give it a try and let you know if it solves my A/C problem. BTW, did you just splice another wire onto the gray/white stripe one or simply cut it before the C130 connector and run it to the ground by the battery? Thanks again for all your help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
QUOTE (soundu @ Jul 3 2009, 07:54 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=736795
To answer the AC question, Next to the large red wire at the top of C130 is another large wire gray /white stripe.
This wire i cut out of the engine side of C130, put a spade lug on it, then made a new ground wire run over to the
drivers side fender ground lug.

As far as the temp gauge goes, yes there not calibrated or exact. But mine seems to be way far out of wack
compared to everyone elses for some reason. At least i know it my dash gauge now.[/b]

Bob, you are the man!!! I just did what you said (tapped into the gray/white stripe wire and ran it to the ground block near the battery) and presto, I now have COLD air! That was it and I can't thank you enough, especially with the heat of summer coming my way.

Jerry
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,418 Posts
Normal fan operation is ......
I know is a long time since you posted that info, but do you have the fan PCM strategy for a '96 Sable with Duratec? Can you program different values in there?
As it sits right now, my low speed comes on at 209-210 and turns back off at 204 (per code reader). In low speed traffic and high temperature day, this is too much IMO. The transmission temperature rises also to 200F in the same conditions, because it shares the radiator.

On highway I have 180-185F coolant and 150F transmission!
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top