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3K views 48 replies 7 participants last post by  Architect 
#1 ·
Ok, so I have a 96 Ford Taurus. When I bought it, it had exhaust problems, it runs rich etc. The car had been sitting for a couple years also when I first got it, my catalytic converter has been replaced with straight pipes because I couldn't afford a whole new cat. and I have a fuel issue or actually a lot of issues I think. Smoke from my tail pipes, horrible idling, bad smell. Seems like either my engine or transmission is overheating also. My O/D lights blinks sometimes also. And recently my car has been vibrating and wobbling and shaking, really bad whenever I reach high speeds and that's not even all of it! All the issues seems to worsen as my car gets warmed up. Please someone help me. Me and my boyfriend have tried SO SO many things and it's kicking our ass! I need guidance! Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated
 
#2 ·
Perhaps you can report the things you already tried. Helps people here ruling out some explanations.
What smoke is coming from the tail pipe? Does it smell like coolant?
You might invest in an OBD monitor and attach it to the OBD port to see what the engine reports back to you. A worthwhile investment because you can use it on any car. If only to clear the check-engine light before you turn a car in for inspection :rolleyes:.
 
#6 ·
Perhaps you can report the things you already tried. Helps people here ruling out some explanations.
What smoke is coming from the tail pipe? Does it smell like coolant?
You might invest in an OBD monitor and attach it to the OBD port to see what the engine reports back to you. A worthwhile investment because you can use it on any car. If only to clear the check-engine light before you turn a
Without knowing what y'all have tried O2 sensors sound like a good bet, I'm no expert on exhausts but it sounds to me like your car isn't quite sure how much fuel to send so it's over or under dumping and just causing issues down the line. I'm not sure how the stock system reacts to not having cats but I know when I left my O2 sensor unplugged after my engine swap it caused really bad gas mileage and gunked up the cat it was attached to. Had to burn it all out before the CEL went away. If you could let us know what y'all have already done that would help us narrow it down like Architect said.
[/QUOTE
We have done all of these things: new spark plugs, IAC, new fuel injectors, we've cleaned the whole throttle body. There was one other thing I forgot to mention about my oil, it is black and my oil light flickers when I'm at an idle. We don't know now whether to try a new fuel pressure regulator or what. My ABS light has recently started coming on also.
 
#5 ·
Without knowing what y'all have tried O2 sensors sound like a good bet, I'm no expert on exhausts but it sounds to me like your car isn't quite sure how much fuel to send so it's over or under dumping and just causing issues down the line. I'm not sure how the stock system reacts to not having cats but I know when I left my O2 sensor unplugged after my engine swap it caused really bad gas mileage and gunked up the cat it was attached to. Had to burn it all out before the CEL went away. If you could let us know what y'all have already done that would help us narrow it down like Architect said.
 
#7 ·
We have done all of these things: new spark plugs, IAC, new fuel injectors, we've cleaned the whole throttle body. There was one other thing I forgot to mention about my oil, it is black and my oil light flickers when I'm at an idle. We don't know now whether to try a new fuel pressure regulator or what. My ABS light has recently started coming on also.
 
#11 ·
Post all the codes you have in order they are listed on the scan tool.
 
#45 ·
You earlier reported all these DTC's:
P0135
P0141
P0155
P0161
P0401
P1130
PI132
PII50
PI152
P0172
The first 4 of these mean "heated O2 sensor heater circuit fault" on all 4 sensors.

Most likely is that the common heating circuit that powers all 4 sensors does not carry 12V. You already checked the HEGO fuse. You still have to take off the connector of one of the sensors (upper front for example which is the upstream Bank 2 Sensor 1) and check with a voltmeter whether there is 12V on pin 1. Best is to stick a paperclip or something in the terminal and attach a long wire to it so you can check the voltage with the engine running without your hands deep down in the engine compartment (which is generally considered a bad idea 😲).

If that is OK, you can check pin 2. That goes to the PCM and should be close to 0V indicating that the PCM tries to pull a heating current through the sensor.

If that is OK, it could be the sensor itself. Unlikely that all 4 sensors are broken at the same time, but not impossible given the welding that has been done. Can be checked by replacing that same Bank 2 Sensor 1 with a new one and see whether the DTC (P0155) disappears (and check with a scantool the signal of the sensor and the fuel trims of Bank 2).
 
#13 ·
Are the 2 high temp silicone hoses are both intact between the DPFE and the EGR tube? If so, the EGR passages in the throttle body may be plugged. Remove the TB and clean the C channel and the 3 openings that go into the upper intake. Very common issue on the G3 Duratec engines. If that doesnt eliminate the P0401 code, a failed DPFE sensor is likely. Failed DPFE is a relatively common Ford problem.

Any P0500 code? If so, VSS has failed or a VSS wiring issue.
 
#14 ·
Based on many of those codes, engine is running very rich. Pull the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator and see if it smells like gasoline or if there is gas in the vac line. If so, replace the FPR.
 
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#16 ·
The first 4 error codes indicate what Conner2712 already said: there is no valid signal from the Oxygen Sensors. Not upstream (before the cat) and not downstream (after the cat). The engine therefore cannot come into Closed Loop (where the injectors are controlled in such a way that the oxygen level in the exhaust of both banks is 1%).

Usually the engine comes into Closed Loop within about a minute after being started (and the Oxygen Sensors are hot enough to give a valid signal). You clearly hear and see this happening because the RPM drops. This will not happen here and the exhaust smells awfully (gas) because the PCM is just guessing the timing of the injectors.

So it might be that the oxygen sensors are bad, not connected or not even present. After all, you did take out the cats.
 
#20 ·
217894

Looks like the O2 sensors tie into the CATS here, depends on how much he cut but I bet he deleted atleast some of the O2 sensors. If so, that's a no go, those need to be hooked up and running for your car to run, the longer they're off the worse your car is going to run. You can get CATS for about low $300 on Rockauto if you or something you know can put them on. Unless you can get someone to install the O2 sensors back onto the exhaust, maybe they'd still work with the straight pipe but I'm not 100% sure. This of course only matters if, infact, you don't have them hooked up right now.

They're $20ish a piece and it takes 4 total for the whole system. Definitely can't leave those unplugged though.
 
#21 ·
They are hooked up in the straight pipe. Before I got straight pipes I did replace the 4 sensors (when I first got the car) but the mechanic only replaced 3 because he couldnt get to the 4th spot where the sensor went. So then it started leaving me stranded and then I got it towed to stoneys and they did the straight pipes. My boyfriend has checked and he said the sensors are still there. So could the sensors be bad or faulty and cause the problems I'm having? Is there even a way to fix this issue considering I have just straight pipes now and no cat?
 
#22 ·
Going off what you said and what the codes are. I'd say you need to replace the 4 O2 sensors, I would just to be safe. Please get a second opinion though I don't want you spending $100+ because one guy on the internet said to. Now I think that might be most of the issues you're having, but you may pick one of these EGR valves up as well (not specifically this brand, just in general)
217895

I think not having cats may be doing a number on some other parts of the motor. All these codes you have are related to fuel/air or exhaust problems which can all happen with bad or no cats, or bad O2 sensors. Ill be honest I've never even touched an EGR valve so if someone else has any info on those please elaborate.

Buy everything from Rockauto when you do pull the trigger on parts, it will save you tons. You can get 5% off codes online, here's one valid until May 30th.

169122938147858904
 
#26 ·
The egr lets some exhaust back into the intake, this lowers the combustion peak temperature and lowers the NOX = nitrus oxide in the exhaust. Only needed on higher power levels. Never at idle. Been part of the emissions systems on cars for many years. On the tube there is a restriction, and small tubes welded either side of the restriction. High temp hoses go on these and go to sensor that sees the difference in pressure to tell the PCM what the flow is.
-chart-
 
#28 ·
Well I had no other option at the time I just spent all my money to buy the car so I had to act on something because the car kept leaving me stranded. Since the straight pipes have been put in I haven't been stranded but my car still has all these issues. As far as my "options" now, being realistic, I don't even know what my options could possibly be considering I'm poor as **** and not a mechanic. 🤷 I think I've come to the conclusion that the car will never be fixable.
 
#31 ·
Oops. I jumped to conclusions here. Sorry. So only the cats themselves where cut out and replaced with pipes and the rest of the assembly is still there. And so are the sensors.

Since all 4 sensors malfunction at the same time, perhaps the problem is simple after all. According to the Haynes manual they are all powered (they are heated) from the 10A so-called HEGO Power Fuse (number 27). You could check that fuse first.

Perhaps somebody on this forum with more intimate knowledge of the Duratec could tell you where the HEGO fuse exactly is.
 
#32 ·
Some people would say the Haynes manual is not the final word on everything Taurus :).

A quick Google search for "Ford Taurus HEGO fuse" indicates that basically everybody else thinks it is fuse 28 (in the motor compartment). And so does Fuse Box and the Owner's Manual of the my 2000 Taurus. And besides, it is 15A and not 10A.
 
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