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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Thank you guys so much for all your time and help. We're gonna check it tomorrow I hope, if it's not too late getting home from work. I'm sure I'll need some more of yalls advice, we were literally STUCK until we got all these answers. Praying that we can figure it out after all! God bless you all.
 

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Do you guys think my fuel pump could be bad?
No, when my fuel pump went out in my Ranger it failed to run at all. Maybe it could be weak yes but the symptoms you seem to have point to incorrect air/fuel mixture. Did y'all find anything else out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
It's definitely an air/fuel ratio deal. I do believe that the ultimate problem is all because the mechanic only changed 3 of my02 sensors and not all 4. (When I first got the car). Now I think that has created more problems. Idk. I'm so done with this POS.
 

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You earlier reported all these DTC's:
P0135
P0141
P0155
P0161
P0401
P1130
PI132
PII50
PI152
P0172
The first 4 of these mean "heated O2 sensor heater circuit fault" on all 4 sensors.

Most likely is that the common heating circuit that powers all 4 sensors does not carry 12V. You already checked the HEGO fuse. You still have to take off the connector of one of the sensors (upper front for example which is the upstream Bank 2 Sensor 1) and check with a voltmeter whether there is 12V on pin 1. Best is to stick a paperclip or something in the terminal and attach a long wire to it so you can check the voltage with the engine running without your hands deep down in the engine compartment (which is generally considered a bad idea 😲).

If that is OK, you can check pin 2. That goes to the PCM and should be close to 0V indicating that the PCM tries to pull a heating current through the sensor.

If that is OK, it could be the sensor itself. Unlikely that all 4 sensors are broken at the same time, but not impossible given the welding that has been done. Can be checked by replacing that same Bank 2 Sensor 1 with a new one and see whether the DTC (P0155) disappears (and check with a scantool the signal of the sensor and the fuel trims of Bank 2).
 

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You earlier reported all these DTC's:

The first 4 of these mean "heated O2 sensor heater circuit fault" on all 4 sensors.

Most likely is that the common heating circuit that powers all 4 sensors does not carry 12V. You already checked the HEGO fuse. You still have to take off the connector of one of the sensors (upper front for example which is the upstream Bank 2 Sensor 1) and check with a voltmeter whether there is 12V on pin 1. Best is to stick a paperclip or something in the terminal and attach a long wire to it so you can check the voltage with the engine running without your hands deep down in the engine compartment (which is generally considered a bad idea 😲).

If that is OK, you can check pin 2. That goes to the PCM and should be close to 0V indicating that the PCM tries to pull a heating current through the sensor.

If that is OK, it could be the sensor itself. Unlikely that all 4 sensors are broken at the same time, but not impossible given the welding that has been done. Can be checked by replacing that same Bank 2 Sensor 1 with a new one and see whether the DTC (P0155) disappears (and check with a scantool the signal of the sensor and the fuel trims of Bank 2).
Also the fuse that controls the AC clutch powers the heating circuit for the O2 sensors. That fuse needs to be checked, sometimes the sensor wire melts on a exhaust pipe and blows the fuse.
 

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FYI, post cat sensors are a VERY rare fail and often outlast the rest of the car. If a mechanic told me I had a failed post cat O2, I would ask them EXACTLY how they reached that conclusion.

Even some "professionals" (and I use that term loosely in this case) claim that P0420 / 0430 codes mean the sensor(s) has / have failed. WRONG!
 

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Even easier than using a volt meter is to use a test light, between pin 1 and the battery - or between pin 2 and the battery +.
 
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