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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
They are hooked up in the straight pipe. Before I got straight pipes I did replace the 4 sensors (when I first got the car) but the mechanic only replaced 3 because he couldnt get to the 4th spot where the sensor went. So then it started leaving me stranded and then I got it towed to stoneys and they did the straight pipes. My boyfriend has checked and he said the sensors are still there. So could the sensors be bad or faulty and cause the problems I'm having? Is there even a way to fix this issue considering I have just straight pipes now and no cat?
 

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Going off what you said and what the codes are. I'd say you need to replace the 4 O2 sensors, I would just to be safe. Please get a second opinion though I don't want you spending $100+ because one guy on the internet said to. Now I think that might be most of the issues you're having, but you may pick one of these EGR valves up as well (not specifically this brand, just in general)
217895

I think not having cats may be doing a number on some other parts of the motor. All these codes you have are related to fuel/air or exhaust problems which can all happen with bad or no cats, or bad O2 sensors. Ill be honest I've never even touched an EGR valve so if someone else has any info on those please elaborate.

Buy everything from Rockauto when you do pull the trigger on parts, it will save you tons. You can get 5% off codes online, here's one valid until May 30th.

169122938147858904
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Going off what you said and what the codes are. I'd say you need to replace the 4 O2 sensors, I would just to be safe. Please get a second opinion though I don't want you spending $100+ because one guy on the internet said to. Now I think that might be most of the issues you're having, but you may pick one of these EGR valves up as well (not specifically this brand, just in general) View attachment 217895
I think not having cats may be doing a number on some other parts of the motor. All these codes you have are related to fuel/air or exhaust problems which can all happen with bad or no cats, or bad O2 sensors. Ill be honest I've never even touched an EGR valve so if someone else has any info on those please elaborate.

Buy everything from Rockauto when you do pull the trigger on parts, it will save you tons. You can get 5% off codes online, here's one valid until May 30th.

169122938147858904
We have replaced the egr, didn't make any difference. I am ready to give up on this car. Idk what else to possibly do . Gonna try to the FPR and see what happens
 

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Is the EGR supply tube from the exhaust still hooked up because the cats were removed. Also if cats are removed maybe backpressure is too low to feed the EGR system correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I believe the egr is still hooked up. Could the egr possibly be clogged? What exactly does the egr supply tube actually do? Not sure how all these different systems work exactly. I'm sort of lost
 

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I believe the egr is still hooked up. Could the egr possibly be clogged? What exactly does the egr supply tube actually do? Not sure how all these different systems work exactly. I'm sort of lost
The egr lets some exhaust back into the intake, this lowers the combustion peak temperature and lowers the NOX = nitrus oxide in the exhaust. Only needed on higher power levels. Never at idle. Been part of the emissions systems on cars for many years. On the tube there is a restriction, and small tubes welded either side of the restriction. High temp hoses go on these and go to sensor that sees the difference in pressure to tell the PCM what the flow is.
-chart-
 

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I wasn't able to afford a whole new cat that's why I had to take it somewhere and they put straight pipes in. As far as the 02 sensors the man told me that I didn't need them or there was nowhere for them to go? Help me with that cause I'm confused
This really does not look good. Given this image from Rockauto (the AP Emissions cats for the 1996 Duratec):
642660_T__ra_p.jpg

it is clear that the 4 Oxygen Sensors go into the cat assembly. So indeed, currently the sensors have nowhere to go. Given the price of cat assembly ($366), I'm not sure what to recommend for your 25 year old Taurus, problem being that you can't be sure that $366 plus the $100 for 4 sensors will solve all your problems (and this is even assuming you have 4 connectors hanging around there and that not somebody was so "helpful" to cut them off because you would not be needing them anymore). You have to be realistic and consider your options.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Well I had no other option at the time I just spent all my money to buy the car so I had to act on something because the car kept leaving me stranded. Since the straight pipes have been put in I haven't been stranded but my car still has all these issues. As far as my "options" now, being realistic, I don't even know what my options could possibly be considering I'm poor as **** and not a mechanic. 🤷 I think I've come to the conclusion that the car will never be fixable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
This really does not look good. Given this image from Rockauto (the AP Emissions cats for the 1996 Duratec):
View attachment 217897

it is clear that the 4 Oxygen Sensors go into the cat assembly. So indeed, currently the sensors have nowhere to go. Given the price of cat assembly ($366), I'm not sure what to recommend for your 25 year old Taurus, problem being that you can't be sure that $366 plus the $100 for 4 sensors will solve all your problems (and this is even assuming you have 4 connectors hanging around there and that not somebody was so "helpful" to cut them off because you would not be needing them anymore). You have to be realistic and consider your options.
They are hooked up in the straight pipe. Before I got straight pipes I did replace the 4 sensors (when I first got the car) but the mechanic only replaced 3 because he couldnt get to the 4th spot where the sensor went. So then it started leaving me stranded and then I got it towed to stoneys and they did the straight pipes. My boyfriend has checked and he said the sensors are still there. So could the sensors be bad or faulty and cause the problems I'm having? Is there even a way to fix this issue considering I have just straight pipes now and no cat?
 

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Oops. I jumped to conclusions here. Sorry. So only the cats themselves where cut out and replaced with pipes and the rest of the assembly is still there. And so are the sensors.

Since all 4 sensors malfunction at the same time, perhaps the problem is simple after all. According to the Haynes manual they are all powered (they are heated) from the 10A so-called HEGO Power Fuse (number 27). You could check that fuse first.

Perhaps somebody on this forum with more intimate knowledge of the Duratec could tell you where the HEGO fuse exactly is.
 

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Some people would say the Haynes manual is not the final word on everything Taurus :).

A quick Google search for "Ford Taurus HEGO fuse" indicates that basically everybody else thinks it is fuse 28 (in the motor compartment). And so does Fuse Box and the Owner's Manual of the my 2000 Taurus. And besides, it is 15A and not 10A.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
You lost me with the fuse thing. Can you please elaborate? I'm so confused lol 😅🤦
 

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Go to the Fuse Box website and scroll down to "Engine compartment fuse box". See fuse 28 there. It says that it is responsible for the Heated Oxygen Sensors.

Check that fuse on your car. It might be blown for some reason.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Okay so my hego fuse and the other are good. What is my next best possible option to consider?
 

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The codes indicate that all 4 sensors are not working. Normally, I'd say that is unlikely, but in your case some serious welding has been done, dangerously close to the sensors. So it might be that the high welding current somehow fried each sensor in turn and that they are indeed all gone.

In stead of throwing 4 new sensors at the problem, you might buy one sensor ($ 25) and replace the upstream sensor that is the easiest to reach (probably the one in the front, near the radiator). Its connector is green (a downstream connector is blue). Hopefully for you the code P0155 is gone now (perhaps after clearing all codes first).

I know you want to save money, but in this specific case it is very important that the new sensor is really new (not a returned one they want to sell you for half the price). So I'd go to Rockauto and order a new NTK one (under Exhaust & Emission -> Oxygen Sensor). NTK does not even pretend there is a difference between upstream and downstream sensors. And don't forget to use the 5% discount code.

But before you do that, you might have a look at

Heated Sensor Test

where you see this picture:

image_1.jpg

The left is the connector to the electronics (female), the right is the connector of the sensor (male). #2 is ground and #1 is 12V. That is the heating that is provided by the HEGO fuse you already checked. You should check that with a volt meter to be absolutely sure. You'd better not check that on a running engine (all kinds of nasty rotating things near you hands). If you turn the key in the ignition to ON without starting the engine, there should be 12V between 2 and 1 for about 3 seconds, so somebody else should help you with that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
The codes indicate that all 4 sensors are not working. Normally, I'd say that is unlikely, but in your case some serious welding has been done, dangerously close to the sensors. So it might be that the high welding current somehow fried each sensor in turn and that they are indeed all gone.

In stead of throwing 4 new sensors at the problem, you might buy one sensor ($ 25) and replace the upstream sensor that is the easiest to reach (probably the one in the front, near the radiator). Its connector is green (a downstream connector is blue). Hopefully for you the code P0155 is gone now (perhaps after clearing all codes first).

I know you want to save money, but in this specific case it is very important that the new sensor is really new (not a returned one they want to sell you for half the price). So I'd go to Rockauto and order a new NTK one (under Exhaust & Emission -> Oxygen Sensor). NTK does not even pretend there is a difference between upstream and downstream sensors. And don't forget to use the 5% discount code.

But before you do that, you might have a look at

Heated Sensor Test

where you see this picture:

View attachment 217910

The left is the connector to the electronics (female), the right is the connector of the sensor (male). #2 is ground and #1 is 12V. That is the heating that is provided by the HEGO fuse you already checked. You should check that with a volt meter to be absolutely sure. You'd better not check that on a running engine (all kinds of nasty rotating things near you hands). If you turn the key in the ignition to ON without starting the engine, there should be 12V between 2 and 1 for about 3 seconds, so somebody else should help you with that.
So where exactly is the sensor located we need to test?
 

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Bank 1 Sensor 1 is the upstream sensor for the rear bank (cylinders 1, 2 and 3) at the side of the firewall. That is the one that causes P0135.
Bank 2 Sensor 1 is the upstream sensor for the front bank (cylinders 4, 5 and 6) at the side of the radiator. That is the one that causes P0155.

So these are sensors that are before the cats. Either one is fine, so I would chose the one that is the easiest to replace.

I do not know the Duratec engine very well, so perhaps some Duratec people could tell you how to reach them.
 
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