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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, so I have a 96 Ford Taurus. When I bought it, it had exhaust problems, it runs rich etc. The car had been sitting for a couple years also when I first got it, my catalytic converter has been replaced with straight pipes because I couldn't afford a whole new cat. and I have a fuel issue or actually a lot of issues I think. Smoke from my tail pipes, horrible idling, bad smell. Seems like either my engine or transmission is overheating also. My O/D lights blinks sometimes also. And recently my car has been vibrating and wobbling and shaking, really bad whenever I reach high speeds and that's not even all of it! All the issues seems to worsen as my car gets warmed up. Please someone help me. Me and my boyfriend have tried SO SO many things and it's kicking our ass! I need guidance! Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated
 

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Perhaps you can report the things you already tried. Helps people here ruling out some explanations.
What smoke is coming from the tail pipe? Does it smell like coolant?
You might invest in an OBD monitor and attach it to the OBD port to see what the engine reports back to you. A worthwhile investment because you can use it on any car. If only to clear the check-engine light before you turn a car in for inspection :rolleyes:.
 

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Which engine? Vulcan or Duratec? What's the 8th character of the vin#? A blinking od off light on a Duratec usually indicates a faulty vehicle speed sensor (vss).
 

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Without knowing what y'all have tried O2 sensors sound like a good bet, I'm no expert on exhausts but it sounds to me like your car isn't quite sure how much fuel to send so it's over or under dumping and just causing issues down the line. I'm not sure how the stock system reacts to not having cats but I know when I left my O2 sensor unplugged after my engine swap it caused really bad gas mileage and gunked up the cat it was attached to. Had to burn it all out before the CEL went away. If you could let us know what y'all have already done that would help us narrow it down like Architect said.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Perhaps you can report the things you already tried. Helps people here ruling out some explanations.
What smoke is coming from the tail pipe? Does it smell like coolant?
You might invest in an OBD monitor and attach it to the OBD port to see what the engine reports back to you. A worthwhile investment because you can use it on any car. If only to clear the check-engine light before you turn a car in for inspection :rolleyes:.
Perhaps you can report the things you already tried. Helps people here ruling out some explanations.
What smoke is coming from the tail pipe? Does it smell like coolant?
You might invest in an OBD monitor and attach it to the OBD port to see what the engine reports back to you. A worthwhile investment because you can use it on any car. If only to clear the check-engine light before you turn a
Without knowing what y'all have tried O2 sensors sound like a good bet, I'm no expert on exhausts but it sounds to me like your car isn't quite sure how much fuel to send so it's over or under dumping and just causing issues down the line. I'm not sure how the stock system reacts to not having cats but I know when I left my O2 sensor unplugged after my engine swap it caused really bad gas mileage and gunked up the cat it was attached to. Had to burn it all out before the CEL went away. If you could let us know what y'all have already done that would help us narrow it down like Architect said.
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We have done all of these things: new spark plugs, IAC, new fuel injectors, we've cleaned the whole throttle body. There was one other thing I forgot to mention about my oil, it is black and my oil light flickers when I'm at an idle. We don't know now whether to try a new fuel pressure regulator or what. My ABS light has recently started coming on also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
We have done all of these things: new spark plugs, IAC, new fuel injectors, we've cleaned the whole throttle body. There was one other thing I forgot to mention about my oil, it is black and my oil light flickers when I'm at an idle. We don't know now whether to try a new fuel pressure regulator or what. My ABS light has recently started coming on also.
 

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We have done all of these things: new spark plugs, IAC, new fuel injectors, we've cleaned the whole throttle body. There was one other thing I forgot to mention about my oil, it is black and my oil light flickers when I'm at an idle. We don't know now whether to try a new fuel pressure regulator or what. My ABS light has recently started coming on also.
Have you done a scan with a OBD scanner? Auto parts stores do it for free or you can buy some cheap ones for like $20-$30. Sounds like a wild goose chase right now...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yes. I have a lot of codes. Yes it is a crazy ass wild goose chase and i can't figure out what to do
 

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Post all the codes you have in order they are listed on the scan tool.
 

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Are the 2 high temp silicone hoses are both intact between the DPFE and the EGR tube? If so, the EGR passages in the throttle body may be plugged. Remove the TB and clean the C channel and the 3 openings that go into the upper intake. Very common issue on the G3 Duratec engines. If that doesnt eliminate the P0401 code, a failed DPFE sensor is likely. Failed DPFE is a relatively common Ford problem.

Any P0500 code? If so, VSS has failed or a VSS wiring issue.
 

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Based on many of those codes, engine is running very rich. Pull the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator and see if it smells like gasoline or if there is gas in the vac line. If so, replace the FPR.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
That is what we are trying next. I have the part ordered. Will update when I get it put on. Thanks for everyone's help.
 

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The first 4 error codes indicate what Conner2712 already said: there is no valid signal from the Oxygen Sensors. Not upstream (before the cat) and not downstream (after the cat). The engine therefore cannot come into Closed Loop (where the injectors are controlled in such a way that the oxygen level in the exhaust of both banks is 1%).

Usually the engine comes into Closed Loop within about a minute after being started (and the Oxygen Sensors are hot enough to give a valid signal). You clearly hear and see this happening because the RPM drops. This will not happen here and the exhaust smells awfully (gas) because the PCM is just guessing the timing of the injectors.

So it might be that the oxygen sensors are bad, not connected or not even present. After all, you did take out the cats.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The first 4 error codes indicate what Conner2712 already said: there is no valid signal from the Oxygen Sensors. Not upstream (before the cat) and not downstream (after the cat). The engine therefore cannot come into Closed Loop (where the injectors are controlled in such a way that the oxygen level in the exhaust of both banks is 1%).

Usually the engine comes into Closed Loop within about a minute after being started (and the Oxygen Sensors are hot enough to give a valid signal). You clearly hear and see this happening because the RPM drops. This will not happen here and the exhaust smells awfully (gas) because the PCM is just guessing the timing of the injectors.

So it might be that the oxygen sensors are bad, not connected or not even present. After all, you did take out the cats.
So since I took out the cats and had them replaced with straight pipes (muffler shop), can I even have 02 sensors anywhere? That's the part that confuses me..
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So since I took out the cats and had them replaced with straight pipes (muffler shop), can I even have 02 sensors anywhere? That's the part that confuses me..
I wasn't able to afford a whole new cat that's why I had to take it somewhere and they put straight pipes in. As far as the 02 sensors the man told me that I didn't need them or there was nowhere for them to go? Help me with that cause I'm confused
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
So since I took out the cats and had them replaced with straight pipes (muffler shop), can I even have 02 sensors anywhere? That's the part that confuses me
 

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Looks like the O2 sensors tie into the CATS here, depends on how much he cut but I bet he deleted atleast some of the O2 sensors. If so, that's a no go, those need to be hooked up and running for your car to run, the longer they're off the worse your car is going to run. You can get CATS for about low $300 on Rockauto if you or something you know can put them on. Unless you can get someone to install the O2 sensors back onto the exhaust, maybe they'd still work with the straight pipe but I'm not 100% sure. This of course only matters if, infact, you don't have them hooked up right now.

They're $20ish a piece and it takes 4 total for the whole system. Definitely can't leave those unplugged though.
 
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