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I am for " if it ain't broke do not be fixin it".I a have used 10-30 Walmart oil for a very long time. 9 Bulls, 5 Lin Cont. Highest in my herd now '03 DOHC 193K and engine is clean and quiet. One of the Lin's bought new and first 30K service was in warranty. They use semi synth. Never had an oil related issue except leaking on the DHOC's.I change ~3K to 5K or seasonal if use is low miles.
Key: 95% is oil is clean and present. After that "whatever makes you happy".
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2006 Ford Taurus SE, 3.0L Vulcan, AX4N/4F50N transmission
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Discussion Starter #22
Thanks very much to everyone who have put in such valuable input on Taurus maint.

If it was me, and if the vehicle doesn't uses less than a quart in 5k miles, I'd change the oil to a good 5/20 weight oil as recommended by Ford. If it uses more than a quart of oil I'd go with a 5/30.
I really haven't driven the car enough to assess the oil consumption. Not even sure what viscosity is currently in the car, just that it was changed by the dealer shortly before I purchased it.

I'm thinking of having the oil changed in a couple weeks at a local Valvoline and using a synthetic blend of 5w20 and see how things go from there. If the consumption is up, I may add a bottle of STP High Mileage oil treatment with each oil change, I know Ford says 5k mile OCI, but the majority of my trips are short (i.e. less than 10 miles round trip). Even if I were to stick to the 5k miles / 6 months, I would most definitely hit the 6 month mark first; which kind of leads me to change closer to 3k - 4k.

I a have used 10-30 Walmart oil for a very long time.
I have used Supertech dino 10w30 in summer, and 5w30 in winter in my '97 Honda Civic for about 5 years, w/ 3k OCI, with no issues, currently with over 275k on the clock, and that lil 1.6L 4 banger runs smooth as silk.

If I were still physically able to do my own oil changes, I'd probably stick with it, but, it's quickly becoming cheaper for me to go to a quick lube shop than it is for me to buy the oil & filter, and take the cars to a local garage and pay for the labor costs. Since this Taurus only has 146k, and I intend on keeping it for as long as possible, I'm just looking for tips to keep it running smoothly.

Currently I'm working on getting some of the necessary maint. done since I have no maint. history on the car. Coolant flush, trans fluid change, PCV valve, will be needing struts, etc. Fixed income sucks!
 

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2006 Ford Taurus SE, 3.0L Vulcan, AX4N/4F50N transmission
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Discussion Starter #23
If I should decide to go with Full Synthetic, what is the suggested OCI under normal driving conditions?
 

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2006 Ford Taurus SE, 3.0L Vulcan, AX4N/4F50N transmission
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Discussion Starter #25
@sheila So the OCI is 5k no matter which oil type is used? (i.e. Conv, syn blend, full syn)? I see some of the synthetic oils like Mobil 1 Extended Performance oils & filters that claim to last 15k / 1 year? Are these claims even near trustworthy, providing the oil is kept topped off as needed?
 

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I have been to the JY many times. I would guess engines pulled would be no more than 1 in 20 or so. Most engines are pulled with the tranny, and the engine is left on the ground and the tran gone. May be tran maint is more important than engine oil. And on engines, coolant maint is as important as oil changes. There was a time many makers said to change the filter every other oil change. I think that went by the side when they noted owners forgot and did not change filters several times. I sometimes skip the filter change when the weather is bad and I have limited time. But I put a date and miles in paint pen on the end of the filter. Pic of one of my MC filters I cut open and check for condition. Since the end is collecting larger stuff, and the medial smaller little to see. Under 30X magnification, I can estimate no more than 10% of the openings are plugged.
And on the other hand: there is the fuel filter. Wonder how often that gets changed.
OK off my soap box.
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I had the Vulcan motor in my last two vehicles. I've got the DOHC motor now. You noted that most of your trips are less than 10 miles. With shorter trips like that, I would do a 5K change at the farthest. If you're not doing a lot of miles, a 3K-4K change vs a 5K change isn't much of a $$ difference. As far as brands, I use Wix or NAPA Gold Line (they're the same). It's top rated for filtration. I use either Fram Xtra Guard or Wix air filters. The Fram is also top rated. I discourage use of K&N as it's been shown to let in a lot of debris. I used 5w30 full synthetic for the 2nd Vulcan as well as for my (current) Duratec. I saw slight increases in MPG and the maintenance records for my current one shows the previous owners used synthetic since about 30K miles. You noted you put 2K miles on in 2 months, most trips being 10 miles or less. I'd stick with synthetic if it's going to be 3-5 months between changes and living in a hilly area that sees a wide range of temperatures.

When you do your coolant change, pull the lower radiator hose to drain it. Don't use the petcock. It's plastic and they break easily. As you've noticed, it's a different coolant (the orange type) that is a typical 50% full strength coolant, 50% distilled water. Others might have more info, but I think the coolant interval was 30K / 24 months. Easiest time to check hoses and belt.

As others have suggested as well, I would only use Motorcraft Mercon V ATF. If you have prime or get free delivery, you can get a case of 12 qts for $70 via Amazon. Add a Motorcraft filter if you're dropping the pan.

Don't hesitate to swap out your power steering fluid and brake fluid as well. If you're not familiar with it check out Chris Fix on YouTube.

This is Blüe Longroof
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...Oil recommendations/tidbits I've picked up are as follows: I agree 5W-20 sounds thin/light, but as I've heard, tolerances have gotten smaller as our engineering prowess grows. So there's a need for thinner oil to enter/ protect those surfaces... I think it was a Toyota blurb I read recently that they are now reccomending a 0W (that's a "zero W"), lol. Must be like water, huh? Anyway, I've always run 5W-20 and to my knowledge, never caused an issue... ...
I use both 5W-30 and 0/5W-20 in my 01' Sable (Duratech, right now with Mobil Super Syn 5W-30) and my father's 06' Vulcan Taurus (right now with Mobil HM Blend 5W-30). Either oil can be run and I doubt there is much difference in the clearances in these engines since their inceptions, although personally I think the 5W-20 "thin as water" crap in nonsense.

In fact, I've heard some that do have a chemical engineering degrees say that 5W-20's mostly use a slightly thicker base oil because they do not have to add more "VII's" or polymers to insure the oil reaches the 30 weight at temperature. Since the advent of the SJ era 5W-20 oils, all are essentially synthetic blends whether they say it or not. Motorcraft chose to put it on their label but my understanding is that you cannot make a 5W-20 without a good percentage of the oil being a Group III "syn". I think pretty much every oil is a syn-blend today regardless of weight and most oil blenders now market their formerly conventional oils as synthetic blends because they have been for at least 20 years.

As for me, I have a large backlog of 5W-30 synthetics on hand so I use them in summer and the oils I listed above currently in my sumps were bought for about $1 a qt. on clearance at AAP. I doubt it makes much difference with synthetics but I do prefer to start with 5W-20 at least in my father's car since he doesn't drive that much and prefer that for cold starts and one of the best oils I've used was Mobil 1 5W-20 High Mileage. I drove his car for a bit and it was noticeably zippier with it and it also stopped an annoying oil drip for a time. Incidentally, Mobil has a $10 rebate available..
 

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I use Amzoil exclusively for all my vehicles and motorized equipment. In my 2004 Bull w/duratech engine I use the extended life synthetic oil. I change the oil once a year. Been doing so, for the last 5 years. Usually put on around 10K miles. One more thing, no two; It has 210K miles on it, and it doesn't burn or leak any oil.
@sheila So the OCI is 5k no matter which oil type is used? (i.e. Conv, syn blend, full syn)? I see some of the synthetic oils like Mobil 1 Extended Performance oils & filters that claim to last 15k / 1 year? Are these claims even near trustworthy, providing the oil is kept topped off as needed?
 

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2006 Ford Taurus SE, 3.0L Vulcan, AX4N/4F50N transmission
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Discussion Starter #31
I use Amzoil exclusively for all my vehicles and motorized equipment. In my 2004 Bull w/duratech engine I use the extended life synthetic oil. I change the oil once a year. Been doing so, for the last 5 years. Usually put on around 10K miles. One more thing, no two; It has 210K miles on it, and it doesn't burn or leak any oil.
@Peter_Duncan I am kind of considering using the Castrol Edge Extended Performance (Gold Jug) which states 20k miles/1 year. I'll probably put more like 8k on the car in a year, and using maybe a Mobile 1 extended oil filter and seeing how things go. Of course erring on the side of caution vs expensive repairs are what's pulling me from both sides. I do know that the Vulcan engines are well built, BUT, of course, no engine is immune from damage due to lack of service/maint. :unsure:
 

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2006 Ford Taurus SE, 3.0L Vulcan, AX4N/4F50N transmission
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