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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good Morning, I have a fors turus 97 with the issue above. I have located the part that according to some posts I have to replace which is called the "EGR Valve". The problem I have is with the metal pipe that is connected to it, it seems like is welded in there. am I suppose to remove this metal pipe as well? it looks like there is like a inch and a half screw at the end but it's very tight.
Could anyone please point me at the right direction?

thank you
CH
 

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The EGR will not be the problem. Which engine do you have, the DOHC 24 valve or 12 valve?
 

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If he has the metal pipe and its a gl, he has the 12 valve vulcan. You dont need an egr valve for the po401, you need a new dpfe (egr pressure sensor). Get it from advance auto or oreilly. Borg-warner part#: egr630. On your 12 valve vulcan eng., a 5 min. job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If he has the metal pipe and its a gl, he has the 12 valve vulcan. You dont need an egr valve for the po401, you need a new dpfe (egr pressure sensor). Get it from advance auto or oreilly. Borg-warner part#: egr630. On your 12 valve vulcan eng., a 5 min. job.
Thank you for the quick reply! so the egr does not go bad?
where is this sensor located and if you have any links to know how to change it....thank you again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If he has the metal pipe and its a gl, he has the 12 valve vulcan. You dont need an egr valve for the po401, you need a new dpfe (egr pressure sensor). Get it from advance auto or oreilly. Borg-warner part#: egr630. On your 12 valve vulcan eng., a 5 min. job.
Is this why I am also getting a P1120 MANUFACTURER SPECIFIC CODE
ERROR??
 

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Egr valves seldom go bad, but can get carboned up (dirty). You can test yours if you wish by removing the vacuum hose on it with the car idling. Replace the hose with a scrap piece of vac. hose and suck on the open end of the scrap hose. Engine should stumble or die meaning the valve is operating properly because there should be no egr flow at idle or wot (wide open throttle). On the dpfe, unplug, remove the 2 silicone sampling hoses and unscrew the 2 8mm (5/16") cap screws. For the p1120 code, you may have another issue. That code is for the tps (throttle position sensor) out of range low. The tps (black plastic sensor) is screwed to the firewall side of the tb (throttle body). When done with repairs, you can clear the code(s) with a scan tool or by disconnecting the battery negative (ground) cable for a few minutes. I would replace the dpfe, clear the codes and wait and see if the p1120 pops back up unless youre already having throttle issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Egr valves seldom go bad, but can get carboned up (dirty). You can test yours if you wish by removing the vacuum hose on it with the car idling. Replace the hose with a scrap piece of vac. hose and suck on the open end. Engine should stumble or die meaning the valve is operating properly because there should be no egr flow at idle or wot (wide open throttle). On the dpfe, unplug, remove the 2 silicone sampling hoses and unscrew the 2 8mm (5/16") cap screws. For the p1120 code, you may have another issue. That code is for the tps (throttle position sensor) out of range low. The tps (black plastic sensor) is screwed to the firewall side of the tb (throttle body). When done with repairs, you can clear the code(s) with a scan tool or by disconnecting the battery negative (ground) cable for a few minutes. I would replace the dpfe, clear the codes and wait and see if the p1120 pops back up unless youre already having throttle issues.
Thank you for your outstanding explanation, I will do as you recommend but Im not sure if Im having throttle issues. what I have notice is that sometimes it feels like the car is running out of breath and I have to give it more gas to make it move....is this a throttle issue symptom?

Thanks again!
 

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Thank you for your outstanding explanation, I will do as you recommend but Im not sure if Im having throttle issues. what I have notice is that sometimes it feels like the car is running out of breath and I have to give it more gas to make it move....is this a throttle issue symptom?

Thanks again!
Buy or borrow a scantool that displays live sensor data and look at the throttle position sensor percentages (of open) while sitting still with the engine off, key in run position. Press the accelerator slowly to the floor, and if you see dead spots in the TPS response then it's most likely bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thank you both for your help today. I just replaced the EGR sensor and I must tell you the car is running so smooth now. The engine used to "skip" after a stop sign and I had to give it more gas but now it feels smooth.
I'm wondering whether I should replace the other sensor (tps?) before doing the inspection again or take a risk....if I decide to change it I would basically just do the same right? Unpplug it and unscrew the 2 bolts I assume.

Thanks again guys. You have been great help for me.
CH
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Again, if needed, advance auto or oreilly, borg-warner tps part# EC3171 for $27.99.
Sheila, I tested the TPS with my multimeter tester by hooking up one lead to the middle pin and the other to the bottom. The test shows no jumping numbers but it only goes up to 3.9 when I set me tester at 200k....does this sounds normal to you?
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Was your DMM set on voltage? or resistance? Sounds like resistance from your "on the 200K scale" comment. Measure TPS VOLTAGE between TPS OUT and SIG RETURN with key in run, not resistance. I forget the color codes for the TPS wires. As WJC said, a scan tool that measures TPSV (TPS Volts) or TPS% (TPS percent open) is by far the best way to do this. Closed throttle TPS% usually hovers around 15% to 17%, and should increase smoothly as throttle is opened.
 

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Was your DMM set on voltage? or resistance? Sounds like resistance from your "on the 200K scale" comment. Measure TPS VOLTAGE between TPS OUT and SIG RETURN with key in run, not resistance. I forget the color codes for the TPS wires. As WJC said, a scan tool that measures TPSV (TPS Volts) or TPS% (TPS percent open) is by far the best way to do this. Closed throttle TPS% usually hovers around 15% to 17%, and should increase smoothly as throttle is opened.

My experience with tps is a tiny open spot, not always there. Very hard to see it with DVM. In my experience with older Tautus is if the system sees a signal error, it defaults to high idle and stays there until engine is shut off. Key off and restart and it is fine until it hits that spot again and do over. Analog ohm meter should catch it if one is very careful and move it slow.

If I was in doubt, I would pull the TPS wire while engine is idling. If it duplicates the event, I would stronly suspect the TPS, or it's connector. Else, likely the IAC.

-chart-
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Was your DMM set on voltage? or resistance? Sounds like resistance from your "on the 200K scale" comment. Measure TPS VOLTAGE between TPS OUT and SIG RETURN with key in run, not resistance. I forget the color codes for the TPS wires. As WJC said, a scan tool that measures TPSV (TPS Volts) or TPS% (TPS percent open) is by far the best way to do this. Closed throttle TPS% usually hovers around 15% to 17%, and should increase smoothly as throttle is opened.
Yeah, I had it on resistance ..which voltage setting should I be using then?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
***update****
I replaced the egr sensor but im still getting the same error code. Could this code be trigger by the tps sensor...why it doesnt go away?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Did you clear the code?
I unplugged the battery for about 5 minutes, then I put in the scanner and the scanner did not find any data so I drove it for a few days then I try the scanner yesterday night and I got the same error code but I must say the car is running better than ever after replacing the egr sensor so Im not sure why still showing. I deleted the code this time with the scanner tool instead of unplugging the battery.
 
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