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Maybe it's a exaggeration. Signature Series, AMSOIL's best product (I think) is listed for less than $11 a quart. If you find a local dealer, it probably will cost less. Of course, it's an expensive oil change if you have a big V8 that takes 8 quarts of oil.
A 5.9 Cummins 12-13 qts, shop price @ $14-$15 a qt add filter and labor.
 

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^ Dialectic Chaos, was browsing in my local Sam's Club today and noticed the Phillips66 TropArtic syn. blend (5/30 & 10/30) for $23.08/case of 12. Less than $2/qt. I bought 3 cases, lol! It was cheaper than their Certified house brand dino oil.
 

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^ Dialectic Chaos, was browsing in my local Sam's Club today and noticed the Phillips66 TropArtic syn. blend (5/30 & 10/30) for $23.08/case of 12. Less than $2/qt. I bought 3 cases, lol! It was cheaper than their Certified house brand dino oil.
That is a good price. Trop Artic is a Conoco/Philips66 product. So is Motorcraft oil. I believe the add packs are very similar, at least from what I have read.
 

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The only true synthetic oils are Mobile1, Purple Royal and Amsoil.
The rest are 'legally' allowed to be called synthetic only in US (in Germany they lost), but even law cannot change their base - mineral oil.
Do you have any links to support this statement? I'm not calling you out, just am interested in your source of information.
 

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I myself have heard what Sonic67 has said from other sources. It just comes down to Germany's standards being much stricter. I think they even specify viscosity as well. Whereas here in the states it's more business friendly. With many decent oils being closer to a Synthetic Blend than Synthetic- I'd stick to the 6k schedule.

Mobil 1 is OEM in many Honda/Acura car engines. The reasoning is they supply it cheap and it has a good balance of properties with its additive package. Its more "anti-sludge". My bull has the same issue towards oil as Sonic67's Explorer. After 5k the oil light will flicker. I've been told many times to put Mobil 1 in it. I may just give it a try.
 

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I myself have heard what Sonic67 has said from other sources. It just comes down to Germany's standards being much stricter. I think they even specify viscosity as well. Whereas here in the states it's more business friendly. With many decent oils being closer to a Synthetic Blend than Synthetic- I'd stick to the 6k schedule.
Your information is not correct. Synthetic oils, even in America are _not_ a blend with dyno oil. They do use dyno oil as a starting raw material. Many synthetic oils in North America are produced by processing straight dyno oil into a higher grade oil by chemical processes such as hydrocracking. Such oil base stocks are called "Group 3". There is also group 4, 5. I personally have no idea what's the difference, but there are other types of oil, some of which may even be derived from raw materials that are not dyno oil. Now, the cruft of the issue is that in America, a lot of synthetic oils use group 3 base stock. In Germany apparently Group 3 base stock can't be called synthetic oil or something like that. AMSOIL is a great oil and better than an average off-the shelf oil, but its greatness is not a proof that group 3 and other synthetics are bad. AMSOIL is a "boutique" oil manufacturer for people who obsess with their oil, so they make sure to put not only the best base stock, but also very good anti-wear additives, and detergents.. and make you pay a lot for it.

My take is Who cares? There is a lot of evidence that Group 3 works as advertized and is better than conventional. Note that "conventional" itself is no longer a true dyno. Supposedly modern conventional oils also contain some Group 3 in them or better. That's because the bar for getting certifications from API or car manufacturers has been raised by a lot. Ford used to recommend 3000/5000 miles OCI using any oil (including conventional) that meets the Ford spec (pretty much any major band 20 and 30 weight oil meets Ford's specs). The oils that meet the latest Ford spec are good for 5000/7500 mile OCI because that's what the manuals in newer vehicles state.
 

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I buy what's cheap, which currently means I'm running Penzoil Platinum 5w20 since Autozone had a nice sale on it.

In reality I don't think it matters much, at least not with a Vulcan. These things are well known for being super easy on oil; I could probably put rock salt in the crankcase without the car caring.
 
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