Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just checked my 94 taurus for codes and was told that cylinder 3 isn't up to par. I don't notice any symptoms right now so I'm not too worried about it, but what are the symptoms I should look for as a sign it's getting worse in the future?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Just in case someone views this thread for information on the same issue, I'll post my info:

Heard from some mechanics on Yahoo Answers. Symptoms could include poor gas mileage, rough idle, decreased power, even possibly a sulfur smell from the exhaust.

The code came up because the cylinder isn't contributing the same amount of power as the other cylinders. Some things to check are spark plugs, etc, and fuel injector. I'm especially interested in the fuel injector because occasionally I notice a gasoline smell after driving. Both are covered in the Hayne's manual.

If left alone for too long the problem could damage the catalytic convertor so it's good to recognize the symptoms.

Also, my car had been sitting quite some time when I took the codes. It is worth driving it around for a week or so and then checking back to be sure the same code still stands.

Hope that helps anyone with a similar problem!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
The trouble code was 30 with the engine running. Codes 10-60 are supposed to indicate the cylinders when taken while the engine is running. It's an OBD 1 code reader.

I'm not sure how to do a compression test but I'll research it and add that measurement to the post too.

Edit: Ok I need a special tool for that and I'm not buying anymore car parts till I get a gift certificate for car parts for my birthday, in like a week. I promised my husband I'd stop buying car stuff...for a while. But once I get the answer I'll post it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
That code is strange

2-digit code looks strange for both EEC-IV (Ford before 94) and OBD-II diagnostic systems.
In first system, they should be 3-digits if car is 93-94; in second system, they have Pxxxx format.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
587 Posts
2-digit code looks strange for both EEC-IV (Ford before 94) and OBD-II diagnostic systems.
In first system, they should be 3-digits if car is 93-94; in second system, they have Pxxxx format.

naw that looks right it is the same way on my 1994 ford ranger. yep blown sides on the raditaor and a sucking sound as you crank the engione kinda described as a sucking whirl wind . as it sucks threw coolant. i would do a google search for a compression gague you attach it to the spark plug hole and disconnect the ignition coil from the distributor. so it will not run and try cranking the engine till you can read the psi onm the gague. the gauge set up should only cost 30 bucks. if it goes "the engine", a head gasket / head is needed to repair the engine.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,283 Posts
My '94 Aerostar used 3 digit codes, and it has the same engine, trans, and computer as your Ranger. Ford stopped using 2 digit codes back in the eighties I thought.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Most of the codes are 3 digit, code 10 with the engine off means systems are ok, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70 and 80, retrieved with the engine running, indicate cylinders. There's also a code 98 for "failure mode." Those are the only two digit codes in the manual as far as I can see, all else are 3 digit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
562 Posts
I'm curious to know what you find out. Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Heya,
It's been a while since I started this thread but I did finally get the compression test done so here's the follow up:

The code reader was right, cylinder 3 has issues. In the dry test all cylinders were 145-155 except cylinder 3 was 120. In the wet tests all cylinders were 160-165 except cylinder 3 which was 140. But I think it's good news that the overall difference from dry to wet was the same for all six. Also, all six cylinders built up pressure the same, about 4 strokes to the max number. I saved the old spark plugs too, to see if I can find any indicators there. Like I said before, I really don't have any symptoms other then occasionally I'll be stopped at a light and for a few seconds the idle will get a little bumpy, then go away. That's the only thing I've observed. Just want to get an idea of what the problem is so I can plan ahead for future repairs, if I start getting symptoms or something.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
474 Posts
more than likely you have a burnt valve or a blown head gasket. You can do a cylinder leak down test to pinpoint the problem. During the test if you get air escaping from the exhaust then you have a burnt exhaust valve, if it is escaping through the throttle body then the intake valve is burnt, if you get bubbling in the coolant tank or air coming through the oil fill cap then the head gasket it blown. Do a google search for Cylinder leak down test. you will need a special gauge and an air compressor. I used this method once to pinpoint a similar problem on a Town & Country minivan I had. it seemed to run ok except at idle where it was a little rough and bucked slightly when moving slowly (foot on the brake and moving forward as if pulling into the garage or a parking space) I found that I had a burnt exhaust valve and had to remove the head and took it too a machine shop to have them do all the valves and mill the head. I figured while it was off why not have all the valves done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks! Might be a while before I can do the test because I probably can't get the equipment for a while but I will try it. There's no shortage of things to do on an older car it seems.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top