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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I know my endlinks are bad, and bought a new pair to replace them. I drenched all four nuts and bolts with PB for a day and then decided to tackle them this morning.



I pulled up the DIY and it went like this.

Step 2: Use an 8mm wrench to secure the stud from spinning. Okay!

STRRRIIIPPP.

So then I grabbed my bolt extractor, hammered it on and....STTRRRRIPPPPP some more. Now it's completely round.

Then I grabbed a ball joint fork and pried on it while I tried to impact off the 3/4" nut. SPPPIIINNNN

Then I grabbed my chain wrench and wrapped it around the shaft of the end link. SPPPIIINNNN.



Anyone have any ideas? I've read over a couple DIYs and they all say the same thing, but don't state on how to take care of something if all doesn't go to plan. Thanks!
 

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Really sorry you having the problem. I replaced mine a couple of weeks ago. Here's an idea. Place jack under control arm and jack it up. This will take pressure off the bolt so it can move up and down or lateral. Now, take hacksaw, of course it will be a bit slow but cut through bolt. If you have a grinder and electric box neat then that is of course faster. I live in condo and there was no electric out there.

scott
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
^^^ Thanks, I ended up finding a faster method, but took 3 hours finding it. (I didn't have a hacksaw, and was unwilling to buy one) :p I'll post a write up later on in the week (How to change endlinks when things go wrong.)

I used a chain wrench, an 18mm ring spanner, flat screwdriver, a very large bolt extractor, a dremel tool and an 8mm socket, 3/8" and 1/2" driver and 2' cheater bar combo. Works relatively well once you know what to do!

Essentially you cut a section of the end link off (like making a pie slice). Then I broke it off and then pried the plastic piece off the ball. Then I hammered a large (forgot size) bolt extractor on the ball end and then used my 1/2" driver and 18mm socket to get it off. That was the top side.

Then, for the bottom (because there's no room to hammer), I did the same "cut off" method and then used my chain wrench around the ball end, the 8mm socket on the other end (I didn't strip the bottom originally, but it was way too stiff anyway) and the 18mm ring spanner in the middle. With the cheater bar on the 3/8" ratchet and the ratchet being held by the ground and the chain wrench against the control arm, just wrench the nut off with the ring spanner. At times I needed to use another spanner to get some extra leverage on the 18mm.

It took me 35 minutes to remove it using this method (after 2.5 hours of figured out how), and 2 minutes to install!

Write up with pics coming..
 

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Nuts

^^^ Thanks, I ended up finding a faster method, but took 3 hours finding it. (I didn't have a hacksaw, and was unwilling to buy one) :p I'll post a write up later on in the week (How to change endlinks when things go wrong.)

I used a chain wrench, an 18mm ring spanner, flat screwdriver, a very large bolt extractor, a dremel tool and an 8mm socket, 3/8" and 1/2" driver and 2' cheater bar combo. Works relatively well once you know what to do!

Essentially you cut a section of the end link off (like making a pie slice). Then I broke it off and then pried the plastic piece off the ball. Then I hammered a large (forgot size) bolt extractor on the ball end and then used my 1/2" driver and 18mm socket to get it off. That was the top side.

Then, for the bottom (because there's no room to hammer), I did the same "cut off" method and then used my chain wrench around the ball end, the 8mm socket on the other end (I didn't strip the bottom originally, but it was way too stiff anyway) and the 18mm ring spanner in the middle. With the cheater bar on the 3/8" ratchet and the ratchet being held by the ground and the chain wrench against the control arm, just wrench the nut off with the ring spanner. At times I needed to use another spanner to get some extra leverage on the 18mm.

It took me 35 minutes to remove it using this method (after 2.5 hours of figured out how), and 2 minutes to install!

Write up with pics coming..
Next Time
Consider a nut splitter.:p

-chart-
 

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Next Time
Consider a nut splitter.:p

-chart-
Or a cut off wheel on a grinder. That would have been 2 minutes and done. You WILL use a grinder more times than once and it will pay itself off the first time you use it and save youself aggrivation/time/busted knuckles. The one I have cost me $25, and $5 for a cutoff wheel.
 

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Removal

Or a cut off wheel on a grinder. That would have been 2 minutes and done. You WILL use a grinder more times than once and it will pay itself off the first time you use it and save youself aggrivation/time/busted knuckles. The one I have cost me $25, and $5 for a cutoff wheel.
Interesting (to me) what others do at the Pick A Part. Battery operated recip saws are popular. Others saw the ball joint shaft off to get to the strut. Struts and spring are often gone, but spindle is there attached to the tie rod end. Some take spindle and strut. The sway bar link will be sawed off also. Those with bolt and nut pinch bolt seems to not be a problem, nut bolt on the ground. Older ones with the bolt threaded in the cast spindle will be missing the spindle and strut.

Not my thing, just the observer.

-chart-
 
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