Thanks for the tip, I assume I'll need a good torque wrench with a 1/2" driver to touch this? Harbor freight has a 20-200ft-lb 1/2" wrench on sale for 34.99 right now, but the 5-100ft-lb 3/8" is 21.99The front control arm bushing will clunk if the bolt is loose. It needs to be as tight as you can get it.
That's a common problem. Open the hood, stand in front of the car and push it up and down - get a friend to help and watch the struts, if the noise is from the top of the strut, your strut bearing plates are shot. At 130K, the struts are probably shot and the springs should probably be replaced.My main symptom is a clunking noise when I go over bumps...
Yep, I hate to say it but if you care about keeping this car, you should consider replacing all springs/struts/shocks, and swap the endlinks in the process. If you don't already have a broken spring problem, odds are good you will soon.Your wagon's rear shocks could be due for replacement...have you ever replaced them? Sedans use struts all around, wagons use struts up front, and shocks in the rear.
I didn't see any rear springs on my wagon - although I didn't get under it or take the wheels off. Does it even have coil springs in the rear?Yep, I hate to say it but if you care about keeping this car, you should consider replacing all springs/struts/shocks, and swap the endlinks in the process. If you don't already have a broken spring problem, odds are good you will soon.
I took my wheel off the other day and looked at the front bushing bracket - it looks like it's bolted on. I figure that either a) my bushings have been replaced before, b) godspunk32's post referred to the rears, not the fronts, or c) ......... I can't think of an option C.It's the same general process, but the bushing brackets for the Gen IV are welded on, as opposed to slip on. On the Gen III, the bushings fit around the bar, then the brackets slip over the bushings and bolt to the frame. The brackets for the Gen IV must be removed to replace the bushings, ie, a grinder must be used to cut them off. With that said, you then need to have both new bushings and new brackets to replace the old ones. The Gen I-III style brackets will bolt up to a Gen IV, you just need to obtain them.
Yep, I agree with Bull Geek. Sometimes it is much better to get it from a junk Gen 3 and just paint it of. It is much cheaper and you might even have a chance of getting a high-quality bars from Gen 3.Oh yea...you have springs. Just pop the wheel off...you'll see 'em. Coil springs w/shocks.
So on a 2000+ on the front and rear sway bars for a sedan, the brackets are integral to the sway bar with the rubber in between. You would almost be better off getting a junkyard sway bar link from a Gen 3 w/the brackets and by some new bushings from your Auto Parts store. Same goes for the rear. I can't speak for the rear of a wagon, never looked under a Gen 4 wagon before to see how the bracket/swaybar setup is in the rear.