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Sorry if its confusing. Ive notice that I can get much more light and see better if I pull the multifunction switch towards me (flash to pass). This leaves the low (regular lights) beams on and also turns the high beams on at the same time. More light. However, if I push it forward to click on the high beams, the lows go out and only the high's come on.

My question is, what wire do I need to swap to reverse this? So, when I click on the high beams I get high and low lights on (flash to pass) and when I do the flash to pass position, its high beams only.

Confused? Make sense?


Thanks for any help.
 

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Huh? It shouldn't be any different. I mean, there isn't a low/high beam per say. It's just one bulb, and the voltage is changed. I think I have that right...

Either way, I notice no difference between the two settings. A high beam is a high beam.
 

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You prob have 50 watts low, and 70 high, if you put them on at the same time, thats 120 watts. Theres no way your stock harnesses and wires are handling that for a long time, they will overheat, trust me.
 

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On my old Crown Vic I held the turn signal dealie back for a few miles and it blew a fuse. Dunno if it's that good of an Idea?
 

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I think GM's keep the low beams on with the highs.
 

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Originally posted by minutiesabotage@Apr 11 2004, 11:50 AM
You prob have 50 watts low, and 70 high, if you put them on at the same time, thats 120 watts. Theres no way your stock harnesses and wires are handling that for a long time, they will overheat, trust me.
nope...there on seperate wires.....so its no problem

Brad
 

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Originally posted by the_spy_guy@Apr 11 2004, 08:52 AM
ill look at some schematics today...but i know exactly what you mean

Brad
Thanks. Glad to hear someone understands. Alot of new cars and imports have them on at the same time. They are also seperate bulbs. Whereas in ford, they high/low are in 1 bulb. There are 2 filaments in one bulb.
 

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all you need is a relay.....there is two connectors on the Multifunction swich (inside the column).

You want to use the smaller of the two plugs....its square, not odd shaped.

You need to tap 3 wires on it.


1)Ground one side of the relay coil (does not matter what side) to the body or some other ground

2)Connect the other side of the coil to the Light Green with Black Stripe.

3)Connect the Normally Open Wire from the relay to the Red with Black Stripe

4)Connect the common terminal of the relay to the Red with Yellow Stripe.

Your Done!

This will not affect normal performance of the headlamp system...all fuses will still function as notmal.

*THE ONLY DIFFRENCE WILL BE WHEN THE HIGH BEEMS ARE ON, THE LOW BEAMS WILL REMAIN ON JUST LIKE WHEN YOU PULL THE HIGH BEAM LEVER TWARDS YOU INTO THE FLASH TO PASS MODE*

This will help brighten up the road at night!

Brad



***Im not responsible if anyone messes up their car!!! please do not try this unless you have good electrical experence!!! Althoe it is a very easy, cheap mod I WILL NOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR PROBLEMS OR WARRANTY ISSUES!***
 

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Running both the high and low filaments at the same time is going to either melt your bulb or the socket. Of course, this could be circumvented by a-) buying a better socket and b-) by rigging up a very simple fan system to blow air over the bulb. I can't imagine the thermal stress a normal bulb would go through having, what, a combined 120 watts of power being pumped through it when it was made for around 80 max.

Just food for thought.
 

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You could use a cheap relay to turn on the low beams when the high beams are on. No MFS work needed. Better solder your wires directly to the bulb and use 12 ga for the ground. You may have two individual wires for power but only one ground.
 

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well, think about what you just said, i did use a simple relay, it takes 2 sec to do because you remove 2 screws and have EASY acces to the wiring needed.

Your comment about the ground is correct, you may want to upgrade it if your worried, i would not be. (Personal thing).

Then again, anyone who may want to do this should probbaly just get a new headlight harness all together.

Plus, having the wiring in the car will make it last longer.

Brad
 

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You'll be pulling a lot of heat through the multi-function switch, and if I recall, there were some thin 14-16g wires in that switch, which will melt under prolonged use. I wouldn't use this mod profusely without the heavy-duty harness.
 

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I would tend to disagree, as the fuse would blow before the wire started getting even the slightest bit warm....

I answered someones question, and yes there anre about 8 diffrent ways of wiring it and diffrent places to tap. This is the easies to do/explain, most protected from the elements and very well fused, both before and after the relay.

From experence, this will not damage wiring or bulbs or anything of that nature.

Brad
 

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You will melt the headlight connector at the ground. Even with a HD harness. You just don't have big enough wire or a good enough connection there to carry the 10A.
 

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with a upgraded harness with a 14g wire you will not have a problem.....

hell youve almost provoked me to prove you wrong using a STOCK harness


Dare me?!

Brad

EDIT: ok paul, here we go, if you have some electrical knoledge, soldering skills and a few bucks, you can do it this way...the way paul sais id the only way to not burn down your car. I agree is is a better setup, especially if you have silverstarts or some other high wattage bulb, but then again, that is not the real topic of discussion.

Buy heavy duty 9007 harnesses which according to paul will still metlt, which is juts plain not true by any means, but anyways.....

Ground the harnesses directly to the body.

Hook up as shown in the schematic

This new schematic will solve the small ground issue and aslo draw much less current throught he MFS....

Brad
 

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