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Here I have yet another boring post about how I was a dummy and didn't torch the pinchbolt in the rear of my 02 b4 attempting to remove it. Surprise surprise, it snapped after making maybe 1 whole turn of the wratchet. I was thinking that because the head broke kinda jagged that it may be slightly more difficult than usual to drill out. So I was wondering if anybody has ever welded a nut to the pointed end of the pinch bolt that still sticks out, then used a liberal (I feel dirty using that word) amount of heat, and some air powered impacts to get the sob out. If not, does anyone else think this sounds logical or am i just up way to past my bedtime. Thanks in advance, because I know the majical taurus gods in this forum are going to be giving me some supurb advice and knowledge (yes you). :closedeyes:
 

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I'd watch it with too much heat. This thing is attached to a strut, and if it gets too hot- KABOOM.

I'd sit down with it, maybe grind a flat spot on the pointed end, center punch it, and drill it out that way. Six pack wouldn't hurt.
 

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Theoretically, For your idea to work you have to have a full tread to pass through the tapped section. Depends where your bolt broke.

I would be more inclined to cut the protruding end off flat (sawzall or grinding cut off wheel) and drill it.

I know a tech that always removes them with heat constantly applied.

He has a helper hold the torch while he works the impact wrench. Being carefull to not hit it too hard.

The other option is to replace the entire knuckle. I know it is expensive and it may cause other problems.

Good Luck with it.
 

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Here I have yet another boring post about how I was a dummy and didn't torch the pinchbolt in the rear of my 02 b4 attempting to remove it. Surprise surprise, it snapped after making maybe 1 whole turn of the wratchet. I was thinking that because the head broke kinda jagged that it may be slightly more difficult than usual to drill out. So I was wondering if anybody has ever welded a nut to the pointed end of the pinch bolt that still sticks out, then used a liberal (I feel dirty using that word) amount of heat, and some air powered impacts to get the sob out. If not, does anyone else think this sounds logical or am i just up way to past my bedtime. Thanks in advance, because I know the majical taurus gods in this forum are going to be giving me some supurb advice and knowledge (yes you). :closedeyes:
I have removed my fair share of them. Worth mentioning, the issue is the shank in the clearance hole gets filled with rust. So for the threads to pass through the clearance hole, they have to force through the rust. In the pic attached the bolt shank gets smaller with rust, but the clearnace hole gets smaller. Never had one where the threads were stuck. They turn ok for maybe half turn, then the rust starts to bind. I have always worryed them out with impact wrench and back and forth, hit the head with a hammer, repeat, etc.

If you could drill out the clearance hold side of the shank, you could use an easy out. Or drill out the threads side and use a bolt and nut next time. Like Ford should have from day one.

I drilled out a Dodge Intrepid and did the bolt and nut. High grade bolt and nut from Lowes, locktite.

Best of luck.

-chart-
 

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I actually got both of mine out when my rear strut spring broke. Lots and lots of back and forth, lots and lots of penetrating fluid. I had a can of some stuff that aircraft mechanics use - it was great. I hate to hear they broke - that's a tough job for sure.
 

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+1 to the heat.

i had my girlfriend nervously hold the blow torch, while i ran the bolt out, and back in a little, and back out, and back in a little again, over and over like I was tapping a bolt hole. I did this with a 110v bad quality pepboys kawasaki brand impact gun i've actually had for the last 6 years.

between this in/out procedure, the heat, and copious amounts of PB Blaster (DONT SPRAY NEAR THE FLAME), my pinch bolts came right out with out breaking. I actually even went out on a limb and put new pinch bolts back in, instead of drilling the threads out.

if my car gets to 120k and I have to replace the rear shocks ever again, i will be very very surprised, at the rate the boston winters are destroying the car as a whole.

My car was 75k and I live in boston. it wasn't quite as salty as I thought it might be, but the bolts were very rusty. like the pics in this thread.

i apologise for bumping an old thread but, i'm sure any people after me would appreciate more confirmation on this removal method.
 
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