Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
128 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
one more question about subframe bushings....I am getting all the parts together to do this job, not having any specific symptoms but the rear ones look extremely bad so I am going to change all 4, fronts and rears. My understanding is that I should get rear ones for all 4 corners as they are better. From other threads, this is what I think I need:

Subframe Retention Nut: F5DZ54101C58AA - $15.14 (you need 4)
Subframe Bolt: N804442-S426 - $1.90 (you need 4)
Lower Subframe Bushing: YF1Z-5400155-AA - $12.75 (you need 4)
Upper Subframe Bushing: F6DZ-5400396-A - $10.66(you need 4)

does it look right? not sure if the quantities for everything are right.
Also, where can I get them online? Rockauto has the Dormans and don't know if I trust them. Anyone has any experience with them?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,300 Posts
Whether you put the rear one on the front is your decision. If anyone recommends it, it is his personal opinion, not the recommendation of this forum. If you are putting rear ones in the front, make sure they are the right size, shape, etc.

I bought Dorman ones from Rockauto. If I remember correctly, it came as a pair - maybe I am mistaken. You may want to check if you are getting one or two, if you are buying from Rockauto.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
222 Posts
Just to be sure, to remove and replace these you would

1. jack car up
2. lower subframe with two jacks
3. undo bolts and remove and replace bushings

Is that right?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,300 Posts
Yes. IIRC I removed wheels for better access to the nut that's holding the bolt and also the dog bone engine strap at the top. Maybe someone who did it more recently can verify/add.

Are you driving Taurus in Seoul Korea?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15,578 Posts
I wrote up a procedure for installing aluminum subframe bushings with torque specifications awhile back. While it is for the aluminum bushings, the same procedure applies to the stock bushings. The write-up is in the Wiki, though I don't see a link to it on the front page, anymore.

JR
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
128 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I wrote up a procedure for installing aluminum subframe bushings with torque specifications awhile back. While it is for the aluminum bushings, the same procedure applies to the stock bushings. The write-up is in the Wiki, though I don't see a link to it on the front page, anymore.

JR
I saw your excellent write up in the wiki. I was just wondering about parts....do you have a good source for the aluminum bushings?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15,578 Posts
I saw your excellent write up in the wiki. I was just wondering about parts....do you have a good source for the aluminum bushings?
I believe I bought my bushings from someone on SHOForum, used. Try posting there. Used aluminum bushings are nothing to worry about, since they're not wear items.

Otherwise, you can pick them up here from SHO Source. You do want the cup style, as they won't damage the chassis like the ring style CAN. Also, you don't need the retention nuts, or the subframe bolt. You can reuse that bolt, just make sure you put some never-seize on it before you reinstall.

JR
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
222 Posts
Great, thanks for the help! What tools will I need for this? I have common hand tools, but I want to make sure I have everything before I get started.

No, I don't have a Taurus in Korea, I have a SABLE in Korea! Sables rule! :)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15,578 Posts
I was lucky that I had air tools, so it was much easier to remove the subframe bolts, but at a minimum, you'll need the following:

1/2" breaker bar with 18mm deep well socket
Two floor jacks
A long handled flat-bladed screwdriver
A dremel to clean up any rust on the subframe, paint if you want to prime over the rust
1/4" ratchet with 5.5mm, 8mm, and 10mm sockets
Never-seize
1/2" torque wrench to torque the subframe bolts properly

That should be it!

JR
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
Somewhat of a thread jack here, but it applies to here so....

Either or, I have been reading about subframe bushings (my car is due for inspection and one is bad), and everything I read seems like it's for Gen I and II Tauruses. I have a Gen IV (2000 Duratec) and am wondering if the same applies for the "Gen III rear bushings for all four corners" rule.

That's all, thanks!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15,578 Posts
Yep. Gen III rears on all four corners will stiffen the ride a bit, though aluminum bushings are much more worth it, and I think they're cheaper.

For reference, Ford softened the Gen IV as much as they could to give it a cushy ride. The Gen III has much higher spring rates, stiffer struts, bigger sway bars, and stiffer bushings.

JR
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
145 Posts
Sub frame bushing replacement.....

Why are you replacing the sub frame bushings? What indication did you have to know they were going bad? Just curious because I have a rattle type noise coming from the under carriage of my 2000 Sable and can't find anything loose under there. Did you have a rattle/noise coming from under the car when driving and found the bushings bad? Thanks...Bob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
There is a noise coming from the control arm area (clonk every time I go through a driveway or something), so I jacked the car up and one ended up being torn. However, I figured that since the car is 12 years old (made in 99) and has 155K miles, I'd say that since tax season has come and gone, that a $250 suspension refresh would give some newer life to my car. The subframe bushings upon inspection though aren't bad on my car, but it does feel relatively mushing compared to my other car.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
17,415 Posts
The rear subframe bushings from a Gen 3 and 4 are identical. They hardly, if ever have a bit of wear. I can pick up a upper and lower sandwiched together for $1 at the self service yard. I just grab them on cars where someone has already removed the subframe. Replaced the front two on my car with two rear ones, all is well. Not quite aluminum subframe bushings, but close enough.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
162 Posts
The rear subframe bushings from a Gen 3 and 4 are identical. They hardly, if ever have a bit of wear. I can pick up a upper and lower sandwiched together for $1 at the self service yard. I just grab them on cars where someone has already removed the subframe. Replaced the front two on my car with two rear ones, all is well. Not quite aluminum subframe bushings, but close enough.
can you ship me 4 for my 04? obviously I will pay shipping ;)
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top