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I'm planning on ordering some subs, more specifically, two of these. Anyway, I want to build my own box. I built one for the sub in my Mustang, but I have a few questions about a dual sub box.

-Does each sub have to have it's own restricted space inside the box, with a wall dividing them up into two compartments, or can they both work inside the one big airspace w/o a divider? If both methods work, which sounds the best?
-To port, or not to port? I'm not sure how much of a difference there'd be between a ported and sealed box because I've never heard equal comparisons between them. What do you recommend?

Thanks for replies.
 

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Go with the dual chambered box. If for nothing else, it makes for a stronger box.

A ported box for 2 of those is gonna be pretty big.
My $0.2, go with sealed. A 1cu. ft. box (per sub) should hit pretty hard.
 

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I built a sealed box for my subs and it came out pretty good. I have both speakers in the same airspace. If I remember correctly..... its about 2 Cu. Ft. per speaker in my box. I have my subs facing forward and the box is a wedge type to save on space. I frequently have tool boxes and other heavy items that could potentially damage my speakers in my trunk.... so thats why the subs are facing forward. Here's a pic of what it looks like.... If you wanna check the whole setup out go here to my cardomain page.
Good luck with whatever you decide to do, keep us up to date with whatever you do.
 

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I second the WinISD program, I used it and made a box (4th order bandpass) and I never thought that it would sound as nice as it does. It even draws a nice graph for you to deside between box types.
 

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Originally posted by qaz-@May 21 2004, 01:45 AM
I second the WinISD program, I used it and made a box (4th order bandpass) and I never thought that it would sound as nice as it does. It even draws a nice graph for you to deside between box types.
yup its agood program :)
 

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WinISD seems to be a pretty good program - give it a try.

Use the volume for the box that's rated for you drivers. If you have two of the same, double the recommended volume.

The type of box you want depends on what type of sound you want from it. If you want boomy bass, go for a bandpass setup. If you want tight, repsonsive bass, go for a closed setup.

Make your box out of 3/4" MDF. Use wood glue along the entire length of every joint you make, I prefer Tightbond II. Screws can be used, but aren't necessary.

What tools do you have access to in order to construct the box? A table saw is going to be easiest, but a hand held circular saw with a level and some clamps will work nicely as well. Either way, you want your sides to make flush, solid joints, no places for air to escape. Use a jig saw for cutting the circular holes.

Reinforce the box in the corners, 2x4's will work fine. You want the box to be as rigid as possible.

Make sure to account for the volume of reinforcements, drivers, and any crossovers when calculating the dimensions.

If you need any other tips on constructing the box, let me know. I've made sub boxes, home theatre sub boxes, and home theatre speaker cabinets in the past, so I've got a little bit of experience in the field.

Parker
 

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Ported or sealed those subs are going to sound pretty lousy and muddy. Head on over to http://www.caraudioforum.com or http://www.caraudio.com and post there for recommendations. Let them know what your budget is and they'll hook you up with the best value for the price.

I had one of those subs before and it couldn't handle 300 watts. After having it warrantied twice I got fed up.
 

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seperate the chamber, always sounds better, that way your subs aren't fighting each other for air, and check out audiobahn subs. Good sound for good price
 

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Twilight you are kidding right? I had the HE SVC editions in a 15" model ( same ratings as the 12") in a ported box and these easily handled around 1000watts RMS. Seeing how they are "only" rated at 200watts in the SVC models, I would say double or triple power handling is quite impressive. Most speakers can handle two or three times their rated power if the signal is clean.
 
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